MUNNAR DIARIES – DAY 4 – 9 SEPTEMBER 2022 - IN MUNNAR

The weather this day promised to be the worst of the four that I had been in the idyllic place, Munnar - the rain was heavier, the fog was thicker and ground was slushier. To top it all, floodgates of tourists seemed to have been breached too. There were more guests at the hotel and they were booked out for the weekend. I was told that most hotels and resorts in Munnar were fully booked for the two days after Onam. I was glad that I had had a few days of quiet before this day.

Deciding to brave all the elements mentioned above, I started the day a bit late after breakfast. Last evening I had spied a war memorial in Munnar Town, but didn't have the place to park and explore. This morning I went there first. It commemorates the contribution of the tea plantation executives to the cause of World War II. Many followed the first batch of 18 who enlisted for war service. Though the tea plantations were in its infancy large quantity of tea were also shipped for those who fought the war. In time, a convalescence centre was also set up in Munnar for those wounded in the war as the salubrious climate of Munnar was expected to aid a speedier recovery. It was also during the war that the Munnar-Kodaikkanal road was built as a getaway route in case of need.

After a few minutes at the memorial I went to the CSI Church, on Old Munnar Hill, which commands a superb sweep of Munnar Town. The church, built in 1910 from rough rock hewn granite from the hill, was the result of a grand love story of Eleanor Isabel May and her husband, Henry Knight, a tea plantation employee. Fascinated by the evening walks on Old Munnar Hill, Eleanor expressed her desire to be buried there upon her death, which came upon her at the tender age of 24 from cholera. Thus came the first grave of the cemetery upon the Hill and a church followed. Truly, the Taj Mahal of Munnar - such an expression of love and grief!

The young sacristan told me that though the roof of the church had been replaced three times in the past, the basic structure had remained the same. The rough rocks used for the walls were hewn from nearby areas and the pews were the ones brought in from Ireland in the early 20th century. Even though a decorated rope prevented access to the altar the young man permitted me to approach the altar, pray there and take photographs.

I had to skip a walk to the Nayamakkad waterfalls and the Anamudi peak view due to the weather. The rain had intensified and the must had become thicker. When I reached the Eravikulam National Park, the place was choc-a-bloc with neither a place to park nor the possibility of moving around in peace. I motored on to the Lakkam waterfalls, which is part of the Eravikulam stream and the National Park. It is one of the important tributaries of Pambar River. Bathing was prohibited because of the heavy flow and hence, not many visitors took the entrance ticket to go up to see the falls!

I got some quiet time in the company of the roaring falls and the swirling waters. There are tea stalls and small cafes catering to needs of visitors. There is a large population of simians too in the area. I had a couple of excellent banana fritters and a cup of hot ginger tea in one of the stalls. It was pathetic to see the vendors imploring visitors not to feed the monkeys anywhere near the stalls as they would then raid them later. However, all these fell on deaf ears of those who were only interested to take photos and videos of their 'close encounters with their ancestors'. Must say that the simians seemed to 'appreciate' the indiscipline of their 'more evolved' mates!

The number of tourists, despite the poor weather, seemed to be on the increase with every passing hour. On the way back to Munnar I decided to try my luck to visit the Eravikulam National Park. I was surprised to be waved into the parking lot inside the National Park. There were buses, tempos and cars of various sizes in the parking lot, which was busy. The queues of visitors looked forbidding. One of the staff told me that I shouldn't bother about the number as they would get cleared quickly. I bought the Rs. 200 entrance ticket and joined a serpentine queue, which was to board a Forest Department bus to be taken to the top of the Park. One of the staff, seeing that I am not part of a group, took me to the head of one of the queues! I expected people to object to such action, but none did and I was soon boarding a bus.

The ten minute bus ride deposited its 31 passengers at the Park museum. From there we had to trudge uphill for about a kilometre in swirling fog and sweeping rain. No wonder that vendors selling plastic ponchos did excellent business! On the way is a magnificent sheet of waterfall, fields of Neelakurunji waiting to bloom in 2030 and lovely meadows. Many elderly people rented battery operated carts to get uphill. But walking, even in the rain, is an unforgettable experience. Besides the Nilgiri Tahr, for which the National Park is famous for, elephants, leopard, tigers and many other animals find a home in this 97 square kilometre protected environment, the first National Park of Kerala, established in the property resumed by the state from Kannan Devan Hill Plantations, KDHP, in 1971.

My luck with sighting animals is wretched. On a recent visit to Botswana, despite visiting many national parks, all I got to see were a few elephants, deer and giraffe! This day too I feared the worst as I saw the behind of one Tahr quickly turning a corner and vanishing to some place where I could not pursue it. I meandered around taking in the lovely views and lung-fulls of clean air when one of the guards told me that I would be able to see a group of deer a short distance from where I was standing. I hurried there lest I missed them yet again. It was not to be, fortunately. These mountain goats are not shy animals. They intrepidly stood near the fence, even posing. I had my fill, taking photos and observing the animals at close quarters. The rain teased the visitors right through. When they put on the poncho it stops and when they pull it off after looking skywards it pours! The Park is well maintained and is certainly well worth a visit. Moreover, the conveyance arrangement made by the Forest Department, in its ten buses, is adequate and optimises the footfalls to the Park.

Close to Munnar Town is the Nallathunny tea estate, which has a tea museum, established by Tata Tea in 2005. Most of the early settlers in Munnar were connected to tea plantations and the museum chronicles the growth of the region and the plantations. The museum is home to relics of a bygone era, the Munnar-Kundaly light railway, period furniture, iconic photographs and tales of the tea plantations of Munnar. A half hour documentary takes one through the developments of the plantations. The transition from the rudimentary tea roller to the modern fully-automated tea factory is an interesting demonstration at the museum. So is the process of tea making. The Ripple Tea outlet, attached to the museum, sells a variety of teas, spices and honey.

Having ended the tour of Munnar this, in driving rain, I stopped by at the Roman Catholic Church for a few minutes of prayer and quiet thanksgiving for the lovely four day sojourn in this idyll, the beautiful Munnar. There are many more places to see and visit. They are, God willing, left for another visit.

MUNNAR DIARIES – DAY 3 – 8 SEPTEMBER 2022 - IN MUNNAR

September 8, as per the Gregorian calendar, is the birthday of Virgin Mary, otherwise known as the Nativity of Mother Mary. It is the culmination of the 'ettu noyambu' or eight days of fasting and abstinence. This year, as per the solar calendar, Thiru Onam also fell on the same day, which is the 10th day after Atham in the month of Chingam. Two reasons to celebrate on the same day. On such an auspicious day I decided to embark on a journey into the past, in fact, to the day of my birth on 14 May 1958.

Coming on the heels of the formation of Kerala State on 1 November 1956, the first democratically elected government in the State was formed by CPM. This and their proclaimed policies rang alarm bells in many quarters such as the Central Government, local political outfits, social organisations and religious congregations. Thus, came about the 'Vimocha Samaram' or the Liberation Struggle of 1958-59. One of the hotspots of the Vimocha Samaram were the tea plantations of Munnar, where large unionised labour joined the movement. As a young ASP of Ernakulam, my father, MK Joseph IPS, was deputed in May 1958 on special duty to Devikulam following the death of Hasan Rawther and Pappathi Ammal, two tea estate workers, in police firing.

The situation was mighty tense and poor communication in those days added to heightened anxiety amongst friends and family members. The Devikulam Government Guest House was the only decent accommodation in those parts then, barring the spacious and colonial bungalows of the estate managers. When I was born in the evening of 14 May 1958 in Kanjirapally there was no means to communicate the news to the young father on special duty in a sensitive zone of the State.

Alex Abraham, my mother's brother, was a daredevil who believed that every situation has a solution, particularly the tough ones. He drove non-stop from Kanjirapally to Devikulam bearing a bottle of Scotch Whisky and some home cooked food. When he reached the Guest House my father was surprised to see him at that late hour. As a bearer of good news, my uncle had told me more than once, that the bear hug he got from my father almost made him drop the precious Scotch Whisky bottle! As they were having a drink and dinner at the Guest House, in walked the then Leader of the Opposition, PT Chacko. My father was worried what Mr. Chacko would think, seeing the drink, because my father was on special duty in a riot affected area. It turned out that, the empathetic politician that Mr. Chacko was, he joined in for a celebratory drink.

I wanted to visit the Guest House as well as any memorial that were there in honour of the two that had fallen in the police firing. Who better to get information from than the local police station officials? When I reached the Devikulam police station it was still early hours and the policemen were getting ready and a couple of them were having breakfast. The senior amongst them, who I later found out was the Sub Inspector of the police station, recalled memories of my father, particularly his contribution to Kerala Police sports. He offered me a cup of tea and sat me down in the largest room in the more than a century old, renovated station building. When I told the policemen the reason for my being there they told me that the Guest House was just a kilometer down the road and gave me directions to reach there. Then the SI fetched neatly written station diaries that dated back to 1946 from the old lock up rooms that had now become archives of the station.

I went through the photocopied records for 1957-59 and came up with none pertaining to May of 1958. Unfortunately, they were not sure if there was any memorial to Pappathi Ammal and Hasan Rawther. After thanking them for their hospitality and crucial information I went to the government guest house, which is also more than 100 years old, and has been recently renovated. I mentally reconstructed what could have happened more than 64 years ago, stayed around to check out the renovated rooms and the surroundings before leaving for my next milestone of the past, the Panniar Tea Estate.

On the way to Panniar is the Lockhart Gap, which is a gap between two mountains between Devikulam and Chinnakanal waterfalls. The gap looks similar to the shape of a heart and hence, the name of the location. One must admit that the high range roads have improved considerably and work is still in to widen and resurface the rest that are yet to be done. This is one of the reasons for increasing footfalls into Munnar and the surrounding region. The Lockhart Gap viewpoint offers an expansive view of the tea-covered slopes, mist-clad blue hills and the winding roads in the valley. However, thick fog and heavy drizzle made a mess of the environment.

The Chinnakanal waterfalls, also known as the Power House waterfalls, falls from a height of over 800 meters. It is a popular tourist attraction because the falls look like a cascading supply of milk that flows into a huge milk can, a gorge. Standing there, I recalled how my grandfather had sent me back to Panniar Estate in a car with my motorcycle loaded in a truck; I had gone to Kanjirapally to check in his health after I got wind of his poor health. I had biked in thick rain in the night without any protective clothing from Panniar. I was drenched and shivering by the time I reached my maternal grandparents' home. When they saw my bike in the porch the next day the grandparents were alarmed and would not have me riding back. Hence, the secure comfort of an Ambassador car for me and the back of a truck for my bike to return to my station of posting!

The Anayirangal boating centre is a short deviation from the highway to Panniar. Inclement weather put paid to people's plans to use boats or enjoy the salubrious environment. Viewpoints were rendered useless with thick fog and rain. The Anayirangal Dam has forest and tea estates abutting it. The Panniar Tea Estate is approached via the Dam.

I had begun my working life as Assistant Manager of Panniar Estate of Malayalam Plantations in 1981. I lived in the estate in a large bungalow assisted by a couple of attendants. I have very fond memories of that short stay of six months. It was here that I learnt about plantations and tea making. It was also here that I learnt how to ride a motor bike. I picked up many stories about elephants and their intelligence. I had opportunities too to observe them at close quarters, including when a loner decided to raid my vegetable garden. I resigned from the job post my selection to the Civil Service.

Driving through challenging roads I reached the bungalow I had occupied way back then. While the plantation looked well kept the roads are in a terrible condition as was the bungalow. I had the opportunity to meet the newly appointed Manager, who told me about the tough times the plantations were going through and how workers' cooperatives had helped salvage the situation.

I got back to the hotel through a different route from Panniar. Approaching Rajakumari, a nondescript town, I was bogged down by a humongous traffic jam. As I passed the St. Mary's Church I knew the reason; Mother's feast was being celebrated with gusto. I looked around for some place to have a late lunch and found almost all places closed due to the Onam festival. Nearing four in the evening and totally famished I turned into a small restaurant for chappati and egg curry. Though the day's schedule had been met, regular rain and heavy fog took some sheen out of it.

MUNNAR DIARIES – DAY 2 – 7 SEPTEMBER 2022 - IN MUNNAR

I had mega plans for the day and, therefore, it was unsettling to hear the pitter patter of rain on a tin roof shed next to my third floor room. Through the night it went on and every time I looked out of the window it was disappointing. I was ready to make last minute changes as the weather warranted, though. Come morning and things were not so gloomy as I had expected it to be. The day panned out to be perfect for the outdoors, in the end. But, I certainly wished for bluer skies; talk about greed! The farthest I would go this day was Top Station with many sights I had handpicked along the way. In the final selection of the itinerary I was assisted by information contained in a leaflet given by the kind gentleman at the hotel reception.

The Flower Garden, also known as Munnar Rose Garden, is just a couple of kilometres from Munnar in the way to the Top Station. It is a superb initiative of the Kerala Forest Department Corporation. The entrance fee is a nominal Rs. 50. Use of professional camera attracts a fee of Rs. 500. The garden has a large collection of flowering plants, cacti, roses and many more. Though there are a large number of Rose plants it was not yet the season for its blooms. Managed efficiently, the flower beds and stands are well laid out. One can also buy plants from here. The staff are friendly and quite dedicated.

Further up, beyond the Flower Garden, is the Photo Point, which is a lovely stretch of tea plantations with  misty mountains in the backdrop. Very picturesque, the location is ideal for amateur and professional photography. Vehicles were lined up alongside the road with tourists trying to capture their best shots, sometimes aided by professional photographers. As is to be expected in such places, there were many food stalls, photographers, and horses for rides. The weather was not ideal though, with intermittent drizzle and must.

I skipped the Carmelagiri Elephant Park and the Carmelagiri Botanical Garden and drove through to the 83 metre high concrete gravity Mattupetty Dam. A parking fee of Rs. 20 is levied for parking at the Dam site. The dam, built in 1953 to conserve water for hydroelectric power generation, was full and overflowing. The grey sky was not great for photography but the filled up dam and the gushing spillways were quite a sight. Because the dam was full another attraction of that area, the Echo Point, was a damp squib. Only when the dam has less water does it produce any echo!

The Mattupetty boating and entertainment centre are private developments in KSEB leased land further up from the Dam site on the Top Station Highway. The surroundings are quite well maintained with adequate parking and a canteen. There is a resort in the premise with very good views of the Mattupetty Dam. Tourists come here for boat rides and entertainment centre. The speed boat ride costs Rs. 910 for 15 minutes for a group of five, including children. A large pontoon boat that can take 20 people is also available. The problem with the boat ride is that the tariff is tailored for groups and families. A solo traveller like me would find the tariff too steep for the fun!

On the other hand, I found the Cowboy Park and entertainment centre worth the entrance charge of Rs. 500 for an adult. I thoroughly enjoyed the activities there. Beside the Sky Cycle and Zip Line rides I enjoyed the Mirror Maze, Swing Chair, The Vortex and the 12D movie thoroughly. There are many more activities for adults and children such as trampoline, tyre walk, climbing wall, V net, horizontal ladder and multivain. The cricket simulator was under maintenance. All in all, time well spent. There is also a restaurant serving delicacies.

About 15 km from Mattupetty Dam is the 46 metre high Kundala Arch Dam that was completed as part of the Pallivasal hydroelectric project in 1946. It is considered to be Asia's first arch dam. If one has the time one can walk across the arch dam and explore a part of the surrounding forest. I did not have that luxury and hence, sought temporary refuge in a food stall as the drizzle got a bit heavy. I had lunch of Maggie noodles and omlette, the staple in such touristy places. It tasted so good that I was tempted to have another portion. I resisted the temptation and wound up with a cup of hot ginger tea.

It was less than 10 km to Top Station from the Kundala Dam in the Munnar-Kodaikkanal road. While the Top Station is in Kerala at a height of 1700 meters above MSL, the Top Station viewpoint is in Tamilnadu. This border area affords panoramic views of the Western Ghats and the valley of Theni District. A short walk with vendors flanking both sides in light drizzle and billowing winds brought me to the forest department lookout point, for which one has to pay a nominal entrance fee. The views of the Western Ghats and Bodinayakkannur are awesome. Top Station got its name from it being the uppermost railway station that had once been a transhipment point for tea with a railway line  built for it. Naturally, the best time to visit these picturesque location is the summer months of April and May.

After I returned from the Top Station to the hotel by evening, I still had time to explore the Blossom Hydel Park, just a kilometer from the hotel. The Park seemed to have suffered from the incessant rain and walking through it was a dicey proposition with slush and puddles. The park looked unkempt and it was certainly not worth a visit in the state in which it was. The Ramaswamy Aiyer Headworks Dam, aka Munnar Headworks Dam, is a small check dam situated close to the Blossom Hydel Park. This is the oldest dam built in Munnar - 1944 - as part of the Pallivasal hydroelectric project, the first hydroelectric power project of Kerala. The pathway over the dam connects Munnar city with nearby villages.

Just over a kilometre from the Headworks Dam is the fantastic view point of Pothamedu. The views were so captivating that the biting cold winds didn't bother me as much as it did some of the other tourists. The refreshing vibes, undulating tea plantations, evergreen meadows and misty hills combine to produce sheet magic for the soul. When I tore myself away from that awesome place it was getting to be dark. That signified the end of a satisfying sightseeing trip in and around Munnar. It was time for rum and coke!

MUNNAR DIARIES – DAY 1 – 6 SEPTEMBER 2022 - KOCHI TO MUNNAR

When I am in Kerala, normally, during the season of Onam I prefer to spend time indoors - except when I feel like having some Ada Pradhaman at a 'Payasam Mela' - because the roads are congested beyond imagination and there is hardly any place you can go without been jostled around. As it is, the density of population of the State of Kerala at 860 per square kilometre is more than twice the national average. Besides, the density is higher in the coastal regions of Kerala as compared to the mountainous east. Therefore, Kochi and Trivandrum have higher density of population than Idukki, for instance. Trivandrum, with a density of population of over 2200 per square kilometre is right up there in the jostle index, if I may say so. Kochi is not too far behind. While I agree than density per se is not a matter of concern, what is, however, is poor civic amenities and utilisation of public space.

Having said all that about my concern of snaking vehicular traffic and shoulder to shoulder march of homo sapiens, this season it was different. I had two unavoidable social functions to attend in Kerala on the 3rd and 10th of September. I had the week in between to spend as I pleased. I decided to spend four days in Munnar because the hill station town is a couple of hours drive from both Kochi and Kanjirapally. Moreover, while looking for accommodation in Munnar I found that the rates were quite reasonable with unheard of discounts being offered. I could not believe this at first. When I sought answers to this I came to know that most of the tourist places in Idukki district were virtually deserted due to incessant rainfall and a red alert for the district. Many landslides and disruption to road movement were reported in the recent past. That sealed my decision. Munnar it would be for me between 6th and 10th of September 2022.

I read up about the places to visit in and around Munnar and made a detailed itinerary for the four days. On the day I was to arrive in Munnar, I planned to meet up with my cousin, Dr. Joseph George, who was holidaying with his wife, the acclaimed singer, Sharon, their precocious daughter, Ammu and Sharon's mother. They were put up at The Panoramic Getaway in Anachal, about 10 kilometres short of Munnar. It took me nearly three hours of laid back driving to reach there from Kakkanad, Kochi. The roads were narrow, but decently surfaced for most parts.

It rained quite a bit on the way; the low traffic ensures that there were no snarls. The seven tiered Cheeyappara waterfalls was the first place I stopped on the way. It is between Neriamangalam and Adimali. The snowy white water cascading with such force over 1000 feet was a sight to behold. The recent rainfall in the region lent the falls bounteous flow. The Vallara waterfalls is just a kilometer from there. Its source is the Periyar River and cascades about 200 feet and goes into a deep gorge with thick vegetation. The heavy rainfall in the recent months, while wrecking havoc in many places, certainly made the waterfalls a standout attraction in the area. Their cascades are milky white but the rivers, like the Deviyar, that are in full flow are so muddy that it feels like sludge.

We left The Panoramic Getaway for the day trip to Kanthaloor and Marayur. The latter is a settlement that dates back to the Stone Age. The inhabitants are said to have crossed over from Tamilnadu 10,000 years ago. Marayoor, Kanthaloor, Keezhanthur, Karayur and Kottakudi form what was in the past called Anju Nadu or Five Lands. Marayur is now famous for its jaggery. There are vast areas where sugarcane is cultivated. The quality of sugarcane and water combine to produce jaggery that melts like butter in the mouth. They also make different variations of jaggery that has medicinal properties.

The process of making jaggery is itself a tourist attraction. And there are many on the roadside. One can also have fresh cups of sugarcane juice in these places, for a small price of course. A massive cauldron over a bagasse lit fire with huge quantity of sugarcane juice is constantly stirred so that the sediments do not stick to the bottom of the cauldron. Tourists too try their hand at stirring the cauldron with a big paddle. Attaining the right consistency while stirring the sugarcane extract is key. At one stage of the process the jaggery becomes toffee. It sticks to the teeth and slowly melts - pure, unadulterated toffee. It takes over two hours for a batch of sugarcane juice to become jaggery and then time for the cooling down process. The jaggery is moulded into balls for sale. I bought 10 kgs of the lovely stuff at Rs. 90 a kilogram for distribution among family and friends.

Kanthaloor has become a touristy place because of the climate and picturesque landscape. Advertisements of homestays and budget accommodation can be seen everywhere. A wide variety of tropical crops are grown in these parts. To experience all of the above a visit to the Thoppan farm is a must. The former PT master and his teacher wife have nursed a five acre plantation of a wide variety of trees and fruiting plants over the past three decades.

Greeting one at the entrance of the property is the original Xmas tree, brought from Israel. The flowers hang upside down. Oranges, apples, passion fruit, custard apple, BlackBerry, strawberry, pear, peaches and a host of other fruits are grown in the farm. Birds and animals help themselves to the fruits generously. Blackberry wine was available for sale. The entrance fee is too modest for the trouble the family takes to take visitors around explaining the bounty around. The couple's youngest daughter, Neethu George Thoppan, recently cleared the IFS exam and is currently under training in Mussoorie. The views of the Western Ghats from there and the salubrious climate are feast for the eyes and lungs. Across the Western Ghats is Kodaikanal, in Tamilnadu

It was indeed a most informative and fascinating trip with my cousin and his family. After dropping them off at The Panoramic Getaway, from where they were driving back to Kochi the same evening, I drove off to Hotel Hillview, very close to the Munnar market, where I was booked to stay for four nights. The room was large with all amenities and it was ideal to rest the weary bones. After leaving the luggage in the room I went to the market to buy snacks, milkmaid and coke and fill up fuel. Armed thus I was ready for the night cap of rum and coke accompanied by masala peanuts. Fuel is about two rupees costlier in Munnar than in Kochi. I ordered dinner from the hotel dining - chappati and chicken curry with cold coffee and ice cream to cap it. It had been a long day and my body went limp as soon as I tucked myself in and switched off the lights.

It is not all work in Kazakhstan – In Nur Sultan – 22 August 2022

We get opportunities to thank God every day. When I woke up and saw the cloudy sky, drizzle and strong winds making it quite cold, I thanked Him for the lovely weather I had yesterday when it was bright, sunny and very pleasant. Most of the places I wanted to visit, stuff I wanted to do and sights I wanted to see were mostly done because of the superb weather the previous day. In fact, the sun was, at times, so harsh that I had to seek out the trees for shade.

I had the entire morning to do anything further I wanted to as my flight to Dubai was only at 3.15 pm. The cold and drab day was a bit of a dampener, though. I delayed the standard breakfast for a bit in the hope that the weather may turn for the better. It didn't, but, at the same time, didn't get worse either. Anyway, I decided that the weather wouldn't deter me from exploring the proximate neighbourhood for an hour or so. With that resolve I borrowed an umbrella from the reception and set forth for the final few hours on the streets of this lively city.

The people make the place, is what I feel wherever I go. In the cities of Kazakhstan people always use the assigned pedestrian paths and crossing markers. They never jay walk even when there is no traffic. They are prepared to walk any extent to get to the designated signal or zebra lines. Last evening, at the Independence Square, Akzhol made me walk a half kilometre to a zebra crossing to go over to the mosque despite there being no road traffic at all. Moreover, motorists give the pedestrian total respect. They will stop even if you have not stepped on to the zebra and they anticipate your intention to cross the road!

Secondly, they never discard garbage anywhere except in the bins and garbage collection cans. One doesn't find plastic and paper flying around. If they cannot find a bin they will carry the material to be discarded till they find one. The local authorities also ensure that the garbage is regularly and cleanly collected without inconveniencing general public. Such things make a huge difference to the way people live in a country. These are things that make the place and it is the people; it is only the people who live there that show the way to folks like us who visit.

Akzhol came much before the time he was supposed to. But, I had to make him wait. It is the system in Kazakhstan that the hotel registers a foreigner with the local authority to prove that one is resident there during the duration of one’s stay in that town or city. It helps them trace the person in case of any emergency. While that had been done without much fuss in Almaty and Atyrau it took on a whole new dimension in Nur Sultan. Assel had told me that, with the free visa regime, the immigration authorities at the airport may seek the registration proof. While the registration process is online, normally it does not take much time. However, due to a glitch in the system it took more time than thought it would and delayed my departure to the airport. I was not worried anyway because I had a whole lot of time in hand.

All is well that gets done eventually, I suppose. In light rain I reached the airport well in time and was the first at the check-in counter of Air Astana. Since there was no web check-in facility I had to complete all the formalities at the counter. I presented the passport and Covid vaccination certificate with which my seat allocation and luggage was booked. Once that was done all that remained was the printing of the boarding pass. The counter clerk hurried to the supervisor for some consultation and I waited at the counter. After a while he came over and told me that the system was preventing the printing of the boarding pass because I did not have a Dubai visa. I reiterated that I would be taking one on arrival in the basis of my valid US visa. He politely told me to grab some lunch from one of the restaurants and come back to the counter after a half hour, by when they would have the issue resolved. I was perplexed and a lot worried.

I bought some stuff from a bakery and sat worriedly ingesting them. I made my way to the counter yet again and was told that the matter was still hanging resolution from Dubai. That had me really worried. Seeing this the airline staff put my mind at ease and affirmed that they would put me on the flight. Finally, after much back and forth, they decided to bypass the system and print my ticket. I had just a few minutes to go before boarding was announced. The saving grace was that both security and immigration were gone through quickly. At the immigration I was not asked for the documents of hotel registration. Despite the drama at the check-in it was with a heavy heart that I said Dasvidaniya to my friends.

It is not all work in Kazakhstan – In Nur Sultan – 21 August 2022

Last evening, as I was walking around I realised that Astana is a city of very long distances. Hence, I would not be able to do what I wanted to do unless I had transport. Waiting for buses or hiring expensive taxis wouldn't be the solution. Therefore, I turned for assistance to my colleague in Almaty, Assel. I asked if she could arrange a private taxi for a full day of sightseeing this day and airport drop on the next day. She was sure she could find some help and, sure enough, in a short while she arranged Akzhol, who agreed to be at my accommodation by 9 am. He was, and thus started an action packed day when I walked for nearly 7 hours despite being taken around in a taxi!

The Mangilik El Triumphal Arch is one of the most recognisable architectural structures in the capital city. The name of the arch means "Eternal Country". The arch is 20 meters tall and symbolises 20 years of the country's independence. It has an exhibition hall and observation platform, which were closed at the time of visit. While visiting the arch one comes face to face with the culture of Kazakhstan and the history of the capital. One can visit the exhibition hall, admire the façade and interiors decorated with all sorts of symbols, ornaments and sculptures that have their own special meaning. The wide observation platform on the top offers magnificent view of the capital's skyline.

Expo 2017 was held in Astana between June and September. Pavilions and other facilities were set up over 25 hectares, well connected from the city centre, airport and railway station.  115 countries and 22 international organisations participated in one of the largest events held in erstwhile Soviet states. The expo's theme was "Future Energy", and it aimed to create a global debate between countries, nongovernmental organizations, companies and the general public on the crucial question of how to ensure safe and sustainable access to energy for all while reducing CO2 emissions. The Expo had nearly 4 million visitors. Presently, the Expo 2017 grounds and pavilion space have been converted into commercial space for corporates, start-ups, education and research entities. The marquee tenant of the Expo grounds is the Astana International Finance Centre. The iconic building of the Museum of Future Energy can be seen from most parts of the city.

From the expo grounds I walked across the road to the Mega Silkway Mall, which was designed on the principle of shopping street – shopping streets, popular both in European culture and in the eastern bazaars of the Silk Road. This is a “city in a city” with its own “streets”, covered “squares”, and art objects. The mega mall has an area of 140 thousand square meters and, prior to the coronavirus pandemic, received over a million visitors every month.

When we reached the Hasrat Sultan Grand Mosque the car parking was almost all taken. I took time to walk to the mosque admiring the symmetrical fountains, flower beds and the calm surroundings. The Hasrat Sultan Grand Mosque, opened in 2012, is the largest in Central Asia and its 130 domes symbolises unity of its multiple ethnic groups. The architecture is a perfect blend of Kazakh and Islamic styles. It has a large number of 'biggest' attributes, such as the Qibla Wall, size of the chandelier in the Haram section, carpet, door and courtyard. All in all, a magnificent structure spread over about 11 hectares that can be seen from almost all parts of the city.

The Lover's Park is considered one of the most romantic places in the city. Bang opposite the mega entertainment and shopping hub, Khan Shatyr, the bronze statue of a boy and girl welcomes one to the park. The park is also popular for wedding ceremonies and photoshoots.

Khan Shatyr is the largest marquee in the world according to Guinness World Records. The unique building has all the world's leading brands under its roof, cafes, food court, entertainment, aqua world, and what have you. As was to be expected, the entertainment section was full with adults and children having their share of fun. The food court was doing thumping business. It was here that Akzhol, my driver companion, and I had a simple meal of pilaf, baursak, salad and green tea.

Nur Sultan has two concert halls, the older one is the Astana concert Hall. It is the former Congress Hall and is now a centre to propagate the Kazakh tradition of music. The Central Concert Hall is a turquoise tiled structure with a swirling, circular design like the petals of a flower. It was designed by an Italian architect and inaugurated by the President in 2009. The main hall can accommodate 3,500 guests and is one of the biggest of its kind. It  is capable of hosting different events, from classical to pop music, ballet and conferences thanks to its acoustic flexibility. Normally symphony orchestra and traditional Kazakh music concerts are held here.

Ak Orda is the Presidential Palace that occupies more than 37,000 square meters. The striking building was occupied in 2004 and is the centrepiece of architectural marvels stretching from Khan Shatyr to the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation, from Baiterek to the Central Concert Hall. The Government office, Senate and the Supreme Court of Kazakhstan are all within a large square facing the Presidential Palace.

The Presidential Park is one of the largest urban parks in Astana and houses the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation with large number of flower beds and trees and is located across the Ishim River. It is surrounded by premium residences and has many activities for kids and adults.

The Kazakh Eli monument is a symbol of the country's sovereignty and has a 91 meter column with Samruk, the sacred bird, perched on top depicting the country's aspirations for sustainable development. The monument is at the centre of the Independence Square. Just a short walk away is the Hasrat Sultan mosque, which is a Friday prayer mosque with a capacity of 10,000. After visiting the Independence Square Akzhol dropped me at the Hotel. I wanted to take some rest before venturing out again. With the departure from Nur Sultan scheduled for the next day I packed the bags one last time and had a cup of coffee before taking a short nap.

I was told that the Singing Fountain comes alive after the sun has set. Every day there is a light show with music and dancing fountains. When I saw the slivers of light getting extinguished in the horizon I took a leisurely walk to the Baiterek Tower and thence to the Singing Fountain. The show had not yet begun and there were many waiting in anticipation.

With the lights on the view of the Tower and from there the whole vista to the Presidential Palace looked gorgeous. I could not take my eyes away. When the fountains started dancing to the music it was truly a fascinating experience. I spent more time there than I had intended to. With a slightly cool breeze the time spent there was most enjoyable. I moved away only when the stomach started begging for some inputs.

On the way back to the hotel I dropped by at a small restaurant for a plate of chicken noodles. With that the day was done and dusted. Nur Sultan is a beautiful city and one needs at least three days and a car to do full justice. I did what I could in one. The rest are for another visit.