LEAVING THE LAND OF THE ‘GIFT OF THE NILE’, IMPRESSIONS OF 'MISR' – 9 NOVEMBER 2025

Finally, the day to leave Cairo dawned. When I went over the itinerary I had planned for Egypt, I had missed out on a very important visit. It was to the Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM). When I was in Cairo on the 1st to 3rd November, GEM was closed to visitors due to certain high-profile guests of the State. When I checked for tickets last evening the quota was up and this morning, I didn't have the time! So, together with Memphis, Saqqara and the Bent Pyramids, GEM will have to wait for the next Egyptian visit.

Since I had an hour before getting ready to leave for the airport, I took a short walk from the hotel to the Abdeen Garden and Palace. Unfortunately, both were closed and they were due to open only at 10 am. I didn't have that much time. Apparently, the Abdeen Gardens were recently renovated with a new food court added and so also authentic gates. The Abdeen Palace was built over the residence of one of the military commanders in the late 18th and early 19th century and names after him. Today it serves as a museum and accommodation for visiting dignitaries.

Cairo airport must surely be one of the most chaotic airports in the world, at least what I have seen of it. There is a scanner check of all baggage at the entrance to the departure hall. After that there is another scanner to go through prior to entering the check in counter area. Once the check-in is done one enters the Passport control area. Fortunately, the check-in and immigration were quick. At the gate there is another baggage check. The multiple baggage checks are a hassle because of the luggage people travel with.

The Air Arabia flight to Sharjah was on time and so is the one from there to Ahmedabad. I had ample time on the flight to reflect on the past few days in ‘The Land of The Gift Of The Nile’ and sum up my impressions of the country aka Misr, its people and its peculiarities.

1. In Arabic, Egypt is called Misr (pronounced Masr) and is the country’s official name. The origin is considered Semitic and is thought to mean ‘land’, ‘frontier’, ‘fortress’ or ‘country’. The English name of the country originated from what the Greeks called the country, Aigyptos. In Latin, it became Aegyptos, which morphed to Egypt in English.

2. Careem and Uber are the two most popular ride hailing apps in Egypt. Despite being told that Uber rides are not available from the arrivals in Cairo international airport, I brazened and challenged what was repeatedly told to me by brokers/salespersons who want their taxis to be used at more than double the rate. It took me a while to get the ride at the Uber rate. This continued to be my experience everyday in Cairo. Uber mentions one rate and the driver demands a multiple of it.

3. It is better to hail a scooter to navigate the traffic in Cairo if you want to keep to some kind of schedule. The riders are daredevils and the manner in which they accelerate and decelerate can be quite unsettling if you are not used to it. The first two rides had me wondering if I would fall off some place. But, with experience gained in balancing on the pillion I grew in confidence with every ride. Helmets are not mandated and that increases the risk if one gets thrown off. Anyway, I survived and each scooter ride saved me time and money

4. The other thing with Uber in Egypt is that they are unbelievably cheap. I kept comparing the rates to what I pay in India. The rates are almost a third in Egypt for the distance travelled. This possibly is the result of cheap fuel price in Egypt. Gasoline is 21 EGP (about INR 40) in Cairo and 19.25 EGP (about INR 36) elsewhere in the country.

5. A welcome thing with the Uber experience in Cairo is that the drivers never bargained for a higher rate in case they had to take long detours due to road closures or diversions, which was not uncommon. Not once did the driver crib that he had not signed off for the extra distance and use that to ask for a few more EGP. Speaks volumes of the character of the country and its people. A contract, once entered into, does not treat the customer unfairly.

6. Driving in Egypt, especially in Cairo, calls for a different set of skills, gargantuan patience and oodles of luck. Initially, I had planned to rent a car in Cairo. I was dissuaded by two Egyptian colleagues in my company. Besides, I found that the rental companies capped the daily usage limit to 150 km. Beyond the limit, the per km rate is close to Euro 1, which, I thought, was completely insane. In the end, I found that the advice given by my colleagues was spot on. In addition to the traffic jams and crazy driving, parking is another major issue in the capital city and tourist attractions.

7. Possibly an offshoot of the above is the almost complete absence of new cars or cars without dents and scratches in Cairo. Most of them are so weather-beaten and rammed in that it gave the impression that no one invests in new cars. How people survive a day without a scratch on their vehicles is indeed the best lesson in the art of survival.

8. Woe begone a person involved in an accident. Then it's all sound and fury. I was witness to a minor incident in Luxor, on the East Bank. The traffic at a busy roundabout came to a complete standstill, while the concerned parties kept shouting at each other to determine who was in the wrong. The party who produced a higher decibel level seemed to carry the day. There was neither a traffic warden nor traffic police to sort out matters and dissipate the situation. Reminded me of home.

9. Unlike what I experienced in Jordan, seperated from Egypt by the Red Sea, the police presence was minimal. The museums and palaces are well guarded, though. Considering the traffic chaos in downtown Cairo, especially, better supervised traffic regulation could ease the situation.

10. The lack of proper public parking results in almost entire roads being consumed leaving just enough space for one lane of traffic to crawl. Even in downtown Cairo the roads are wide, often times three lanes each way. But, the roads are swallowed up by cars parked for long hours, often for the whole day.

11. My initial reaction to the size and scale of buildings in Cairo was an astounding WOW. Massive colonial buildings with ornate architecture with designs. However, in downtown Cairo, these buildings had definitely seen better times. Many of them were run down and the neighborhoods were dirty and unkempt.

12. Despite the crowds and packed street markets I did not find a single act of wanton littering. There weren't many bins or garbage collections units, but people didn't make the place dirty or unclean. Streets are cleaned regularly and shop owners and restaurants keep their premises clean.

13. Food is cheap, especially street food. Of course, swanky ones cost a pile. The Egyptian cuisine is healthy with flavorful blend of Middle Eastern, African, and Mediterranean influences, with dishes featuring grains, legumes, and poultry. Kebabs, falafel, shawarma, etc were my staple during the days in Egypt.

14. Stella is Egyptian beer. It was founded by Belgian entrepreneurs in Alexandria in 1897 and has a long history of reflecting Egypt's cultural and social changes. The beer is cheap with alcohol percentage ranging from 4.5 to 10%.

15. The people are extremely friendly and respectful. A couple of them mentioned Shah Rukh Khan, when they came to know I am an Indian. The reach of our films is far beyond our geographical boundaries and its influence is immense the world over. A couple of them told me that I looked like an Egyptian - I started dreaming that I looked like Omar Sharief!

PORT SAID TO CAIRO – 8 NOVEMBER 2025

The first thing I remembered on opening my eyes this morning, apart for the gratitude for another day, was the birthday of my littlest grandchild, Sophie. She's celebrating her 7th birthday today. God bless her, her siblings and her parents.

Once Marom Port Said Resort and Beach confirmed that I could enjoy the luxury of a late check-out, I was at ease. The buffet breakfast was sumptuous consisting of continental and local fare. I took my time over it knowing well that I would be skipping lunch. Many helpings later I left for the forenoon program.

I decided to explore the Port Fouad side first. For this reached the Port Said ferry terminal. I asked Mohamed, the driver, to wait while I crossed over to Port Fouad and did what I wanted to there and returned. A huge metal canopy with well-marked lanes for cars and pedestrians' market out the approach to the ferry terminal of Port Said.

I was uncertain where to buy the ticket and asked a couple of people near the ferry terminal. Though I did not understand them fully I sought of realized that the ferry between the two ports is a free service. In any case, I boarded one of the ferries, due to depart soon, noticing that no one, including vehicles took any ticket. Worse comes to worst, I thought, I would pay it in the ferry.

No one approached me during the 10 minutes journey and I safely disembarked in Port Fouad, the sister city of Port Said. I noticed that there were over 6 ferries doing brisk 'free' business between the two shores. The ferries are operated by the Suez Canal Authority. Indeed, a fantastic mobility solution for citizens and visitors, alike.

The Grand Mosque of Fort Fouad is a stone's throw from the ferry terminal. It is known to be one of the largest mosques in the country and can accommodate thousands of worshippers. I did not go into the mosque but could make out the uniqueness of the architecture from a walk around the premises. A short distance away is the King Fouad Square, who was the King of Egypt till 1936, which bears a bronze statue of the King.

The city of Port Fouad was founded in 1925. The city was designed as a residential area for workers of the Suez Canal. The city has been referred to as the meeting point of the East and the West. Located on the east of Port Said and the Northern entrance of the Suez Canal, Port Fouad sits on the meeting point between the African and Asian continents, making it one of a precious few transcontinental cities in the world. The city's French-inspired homes were arranged in harmony along its beautiful, tree-shaded boulevards.  The villas, though forded off by high barricades, speak volumes of the colonial past.

The Suez Canal is undoubtedly the most significant attraction in Port Fouad. This man-made waterway connects the Mediterranean Sea to the Red Sea, allowing for direct maritime trade routes between Europe and Asia. Visitors can enjoy stunning canal views from various vantage points throughout the city, including the Corniche and nearby parks. The Mouth, as the meeting point of the Mediterranean Sea with the Suez Canal is called is another noteworthy touristy point.

When I was walking past the quaint old building of the Suez Canal Authority in Port Fouad, nearing the end of the vist to the city, I thought I heard church bells peal. I did not know from which direction the bells were ringing either.

I googled and found that the Church of St. George the Great is not very far from the Grand Mosque of Port Fouad. I walked in and found that the church was open, but empty. The church bells I heard peal, was it a calling from Our Lady? Can't say. But, here I was, inside the church offering solemn prayers and in total submission to the power of the Almighty. With that it was time for me to return to Port Said

I went by car to the Suez Canal Authority building, which I had got a good view of it from the ferry. At the gate of the building that the entrance of visitors is prohibited. I was a wee bit disappointed but quickly moved away. The Suez Canal was designed by Ferdinand De Lesseps. The Universal Suez Ship Canal Company, a joint French and Egyptian enterprise, built and ran the canal in its early years. The colossal statue of Ferdinand de Lesseps was installed at entrance of the Suez Canal at Port Saiid on 17 November 1899 and forcibly removed on 23 December 1956, as a revolt against the colonial era.

The Simon Arzt was Port Said's number-one purveyor of imported goods and a see-and-be-seen destination for the city's many foreign residents in the past. Built in the 1920s, it is now undergoing major renovation works. Its location in the superb boulevard abutting the cruise terminal, where the humongous MSC cruise vessel Armonia was berthed, gives it a strategic location advantage.

I walked along the boulevard and came across the Port Said Lighthouse, which was constructed in 1989 and commissioned a week before the Suez Canal. The octagonal shaped lighthouse is 46 meter high. The lighthouse was decommissioned in 1997.

Standing tall at the gateway to Egypt’s maritime soul, the majestic Om El Donia, meaning “Mother of the World”, rises in bronze splendour within the newly inaugurated Egypt Square in the northern coastal city of Port Said. This grand figure is a tribute to Egypt’s enduring identity, drawing inspiration from both the Pharaonic past and echoes of Ptolemaic elegance.

Once this was done, it was time to get back to Cairo.  Back in the hotel I had a quick bath and left for Cairo. The skillful driver got me to my hotel in Cairo, despite the traffic snarls, in less than 3 hours. After settling down in the room I took a stroll to the liquor store and bought 2*500 ml cans of 8% alcohol Stella, which strangely is cheaper than the 4.5% alcohol one! On the way back I picked up a chicken rice and fries' dinner. The Egyptian tour had ended for me.

ALEXANDRIA TO PORT SAID – 7 NOVEMBER 2025

Alexandria was the capital of Egypt from its founding by Alexander the Great in 332 BC until its conquest by the Arab forces in 642 AD. The Nile River, the civilizational identity, empties into the Mediterranean Sea in Alexandria. The White Nile that starts from Lake Victoria in Tanzania and the Blue Nile that originates from Ethiopia converge in Khartoum, Sudan and flows through Egypt before emptying out into the Mediterranean Sea in Alexandria. 

It was a whirlwind tour of the ancient city with an appointment to keep in Port Said before sundown. I had reached Alexandria at 3 am. It did take me some time to locate the apartment where I was booked to stay. After just a three-hour nap I got up to complete the social media post of the previous day. Over a cup of coffee, I posted the piece on Facebook. The two-bedroom apartment was not well kept, in the sense that it didn't seem as if the floors had been swept or mopped after the previous occupant had vacated. However, the views of the Mediterranean and the Corniche from the balcony of the apartment were awesome. I summoned the driver at 9 am, vacated the apartment and left for the sightseeing itinerary in Alexandria. As the day wore on I wished I had more time in the lovely city.

The Stanley Bridge is a 400-meter-long Islamic style landmark with four towers in Alexandria that was built over the sea, the first one in Egypt, to alleviate traffic and enhance the 10-mile-long corniche. The construction of the Alexandria Corniche began in 1925 and took approximately ten years to complete in six phases. It is a popular place for people to indulge in walking, running, angling, etc. I asked the driver to stop at a vantage location to admire the bridge and the views from it. He cautioned me that he would not be able to stop on the bridge for long. However, as it was a holiday, there was not much pressure of traffic across the bridge, and I got my time at the iconic landmark of Alexandria.

The Alexandria Corniche stretches for about 15 kilometers along the coastline, offering picturesque and stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea. I stopped at many places on the way to the Qaitbay Citadel to savour the scenic views, watch people playing pickleball in the beach and eager swimmers frolicking in the shallow waters.

The Alexandria Corniche also boasts a blend of modern and historic architecture, making it a unique and charming location to explore. The promenade is lined with palm trees, colorful flowers, and well-maintained walkways, creating a tranquil atmosphere ideal for a peaceful walk, jog and even angling.

One of the prominent landmarks along the Corniche is the Alexandria Naval Unknown Soldier Memorial, which is dedicated to the unknown soldiers who lost their lives in the sea battles.

The Qaitbay Citadel was one of the most important forts on the Mediterranean coast and was built by the Mamluk Sultan Abu al-Nasr Qaitbay in the 15th century. The limestone citadel was built over the ruins of Ancient Alexandria’s Lighthouse and served as Alexandria’s fence against naval attacks. The citadel’s entrance leads to the courtyard where we find the main tower located in the northwest.

It consists of a massive three-floored square fort. Its four corners are occupied by half-circular towers that carry protruding balconies for the defense of the city. A tank near the tower supplied soldiers and their horses with water. The citadel is now a popular tourist site that houses a mosque, a naval museum, and offers panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea. Being a holiday, the entire complex was swarming with local tourists, particularly school children.

Pompey’s Pillar was carved out of red Aswan granite. The tallest pillar in the whole of Egypt, it was constructed in the 3rd century AD to support the massive statue of Emperor Diocletian. The pillar's name is a result of medieval European travelers mistakenly believing it marked the burial site of the Roman general Pompey, who was assassinated in Egypt. The name stuck, despite the fact that the pillar was built over 300 years after Pompey's death. The pillar is situated on top of the ruins of the ancient Temple of Serapeum, which was a significant religious and intellectual center. It is possibly the only Roman structure in Alexandria still in its original location.

The Catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa is a unique burial site dating back to 2nd century AD. It is renowned for the remarkable blend of diverse ancient architectural styles showcasing the varied cultural influences that shaped Alexandria. The Catacombs were discovered accidentally in 1900. The necropolis is carved out of solid rock over three tiers and features a grand spiral staircase leading to a central circular hall (Rotunda) with a domed ceiling. The Rotunda connects to the Triclinium, a Roman-style dining hall for funeral feasts and multiple burial levels with intricate carvings.

Originally, it was a private tomb for a wealthy family, which eventually expanded to accommodate many others and is now recognized as one of the Wonders of the Middle Ages. I will never forget my visit to this attraction because I 'lost' a cherished memento I had been carrying around since my first road trip to Khardungla in 2012, when it was the highest motorable road in the world. It fell out of my pocket somewhere in the labyrinths; looked all over but never found it.

The modern Bibliotheca Alexandrina is a commemoration of the Library of Alexandria, once one of the largest libraries worldwide, which was lost in antiquity. How it was lost has many theories, but nothing conclusive. The main attraction of the library is its distinctive seven-tiered, cascading design that can accommodate up to 2,000 patrons at a time in the iconic reading room. It is a modern, cylindrical building with a tilted disc shape. 

A large, granite-clad wall with carvings of different alphabets surrounds the exterior of the humongous building. It has the capacity to hold over 8 million books that serves as a public library, cultural center, and a hub for dialogue and research. The construction of the building took seven years, and it was officially opened to the public on October 16, 2002.

The Montaza Palace and Gardens is a major tourist attraction in Alexandria. Built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the sprawling 359-acre property has three palaces, manicured gardens, train ride, cafes, eateries, theme park and much more. The views of the Mediterranean from the palace grounds are a sight to enjoy.

The rather steep entrance fee included access to the gardens, the Royal Train, the Royal Greenhouse, and a soft drink at the Beach Club. The train wasn't working and walking to the Beach Club would have worn out my shoes and kneecaps. The gardens are extensive, and private cars are not permitted beyond the designated parking area, which also has to be paid for. There are options to rent a bicycle or a golf cart to ambulate the massive grounds.

While the main palace is now reserved for presidential ceremonies and is inaccessible to the public, its grandeur is still evident from the outside. The Salamlek Palace and another palace on the grounds have been converted into hotels, offering a luxurious stay with a historical backdrop. The architectural styles blend Ottoman and European influences, reflecting the era's grandeur and opulence.

Straight from the Montaza Palace we drove to Port Said. The road from Cairo to Alexandria had been top class. However, the same cann5be said of the road to Port Said. But, in favour, it must be said that massive infrastructure projects are underway on the route to Port Said from Alexandria. Many power projects are already functional and some of them are under augmentation. The other thing I noticed were massive university complexes on the way. By the time I reached the lovely Marom Port Said Resort and Beach it was past sundown. It was a marvelous facility with its own private beach, residences, swimming pools and restaurants.

I was famished. I tried to get some Egyptian food in the multi-cuisine restaurant, but that didn't work out. The Italian restaurant was busy and well patronized. I went in there and took a window seat. I ordered a shrimp fajita with mashed potatoes. I was interminably bother by a guy smoking at the table behind me. Unfortunately, the ventilation was such that the smoke vented in the direction where I was seated. The food was awesome. Then I overdid it. I ordered a chocolate cake, without bothering to know the size of the portion. It was too much, and I just sat there staring at it for some time before I gathered all the resolve required to further pack the already stuffed belly. After the overkill at the dining table I walked around the large swimming pool a few times before repairing to bed in my first-floor room.

A FULL DAY IN LUXOR ON THE BANKS OF THE NILE – 6 NOVEMBER 2025

What I had wanted to do in Luxor was completed by last evening except the early morning hot air balloon ride. Mostafa, the owner of the Full Moon House, had arranged the entire balloon ride package. I was informed to be ready by 5 am in front of the guesthouse. The hotel pickup was arranged by the Blue Bird company that was going to do the hot air balloon ride. The 10-seater pickup was full. We were driven for about 20 minutes to a massive empty ground, where tens of balloons were spread out waiting for the visitors.

Soon we were introduced to a photographer and videographer, who showed us videos and photos they could make in case we wanted. Initially they had mentioned 250 EGP as the price for one and I signed up. After a while they came around and said that they would have to charge 500; I refused the revised price and decided to document the experience myself, in the best manner possible.

In a while, the balloons were readied one by one, and it was quite a sight to see them getting 'blown up' to be taken up to the sky by the Captain. Each basket, divided into many sections, can take up to 28 passengers. Detailed instructions were given to us prior to 'jumping' into the basket.

Soon we were airborne and the sunrise was indeed a magnificent sight in the distance. The Captain kept pointing out places of tourist interests such as the Hatshepsut mortuary temple, the Valley of the Queens, Valley of the Kings, Tomb of the Nobles, Rammesseum, Habu Temple, etc.

Lush sugarcane plantations and mango groves stood in stark contrast to the limestone and alabaster mountains in the West Bank. Teams engaged in excavations had also begun their work early. There are so much excavation and restoration works going on that new attractions will get opened year after year and that will be no surprise.

At $75 for the 45 minutes hot air balloon experience, it was indeed worth the money spent. Once the ride was over, before we left the basket, the company asked us to fill out a feedback form. In return they gave us a certificate of the balloon ride, which I got signed by the Captain. Thereafter, I was dropped back to the guesthouse. In the van was a group of Japanese girls, who talked so loudly through the 20-minute ride that it was most annoying.

I joined a wonderful couple who were touring Egypt from America. The gentleman, Magdi, is a retired nephrologist, but does voluntary service in Florida. The lady used a walking stick as she had undergone hip replacement surgery twice in the past year. Magdi is originally from Egypt and has been in the US for the past 46 years. They would be getting on to a Nile cruise from Luxor to Aswan this morning. We shared a lot last evening and over breakfast this morning. It was such a pleasure.

Mostafa, the owner of the guesthouse, permitted me use of a room till 5 pm as my flight was scheduled only at 7.45 pm. He arranged for a taxi to take me to the airport at 5 pm, till which time, he said, I could rest in the room. After shifting the luggage to the 'apartment' room suggested by Mostafa, on an impulse, I decided to take the passenger ferry to the East Bank. Just 15 minutes of walk from the guesthouse and I was at the ferry terminal. Last evening I had learnt that the ferry operates 24x7, which is a great facility for the locals and visitors alike.

I bought a two-way ticket for 50 EGP and sat comfortably on the upper deck. In a short while the ferry departed even though it was just about half full. Two ferries operate the route. I had no particular agenda for the East Bank. However, as the ferry approached the East Bank I noticed spires of a church. After disembarking from the ferry, which was in between the government hospital and the Luxor Museum I had visited yesterday, I walked in the general direction of the church.

I reached the Cathedral of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Luxor, which was under the Coptic Orthodox Diocese. The church was built in 1909. Some part of the old church is undergoing renovation. I got to spend a lot of time in prayer; I felt as if I had been summoned by Our Lady for a special blessing.

After a short nap and a bath, I was ready to leave for the airport. Mostafa accompanied me in Ashraf's taxi and dropped me off at the departure enclosure. When I got the boarding pass, I was shocked. The flight was two hours late. There was neither any prior intimation nor an email. Just like that. This meant further delay to my onward car ride to Alexandria. I informed the driver on the delay. I also anticipate delay in baggage arrival as it happened in Luxor three days back.

When things go wrong, they happen not just once. As I was walking towards the designated departure gate, I was summoned by the staff of the Pearl Lounge who examined my card and said that I would get free access to the lounge. I thought it a heaven sent as I was hungry too, having skipped lunch. When I sat down to a lovely dinner of sticky rice and beef curry from the buffet, I got an alert that Rs. 3100 had been debited for the lounge access!

Since the card had been charged I decided to make full use of the lounge. Apart from a second helping I also tucked into cakes and a couple of cups of coffee. In between I had to school another Indian guy who was on a video call with his family. I told him that he should be using ear buds as no one else was interested in his conversation. He immediately toned his volume down and soon thereafter discontinued the video call. When I came back to my seat the girl sitting next to me, an engineer from Edmonton, Canada, thanked me for stopping the 'nuisance'. I don't know why we cannot be considerate and be mindful of the inconvenience we are causing to others.

The fact that my card had been charged still rankled when I came out of the lounge. I went up to the girl who had confirmed that the lounge access was free for those with Visa or MasterCard credit or debit card. I told her what had happened and showed her the email from the bank intimating me of the debit. 

She asked me if I had used the lounge service. I confessed that I had because I saw the email after I had started use of the lounge. However, she immediately took action to reverse the transaction and asked me to take a photo of the screenshot of reversal so that I could seek redressal from the Bank in case the amount was not credited back into my account within 48 hours. That's customer service. Implicit trust in the customer and acceptance of one's mistake.

The delayed flight got further delayed. Finally boarding started at 2200 hours. Although the flight was full, two seats were empty and that was beside my window seat. On the flight, as was on the flight to Luxor too, snacks consisted of a small packet of salted crackers and a small bottle of water. We had to wait for 15 minutes after the flight parked in Cairo to leave the aircraft. The ground handling is seriously flawed. The luggage did come soon enough, and I met up with my driver to leave for Alexandria after midnight. I intimated the apartment I had booked in Alexandria of my possible arrival close to 3 am!