Friday, March 21, 2025
2 March 2025 - In Yerevan, Armenia
Thursday, March 20, 2025
1 March 2025 - Ahmedabad to Yerevan, Armenia
Anyway, in the present case, eventually I had a clear one-hour gap after landing in Sharjah. The boarding gate for Yerevan was not far from the one I disembarked from. The security check was incredibly quick, and I was at the Yerevan gate with much to spare. The Sharjah airport is a no-frills airport with barely adequate moving space for the passengers waiting to board. Multiple gates clashed and a sea of humanity swarmed the detention center like waiting area.
Air Arabia hubs in six locations, namely, Sharjah, Morocco, Abu Dhabi, Ras al Khaimah, Alexandria and Pakistan. It carried 5.1 million passengers last year across 221 routes, flying 77 aircraft. The leg space on board is very limited and one fears the passenger in front reclining her seat. It cost me nearly Rs. 10,000 extra for the 20 kgs of extra baggage, seat selection and a meal on board the flights, as the tariff only includes 10 kgs of cabin baggage. The round trip cost me Rs. 55,000.While awaiting boarding in Sharjah, a shiver ran down my spine when I saw the weather information at the gate. It said -6.5°C in Yerevan! The sights of the mountains and the landscape as I neared Yerevan further reinforced the belief that it was going to be one hell of a cold vacation. The cold blast that treated me on landing did no better. The immigration was done by officers who looked stern and reticent. However, after stamping the passport, he said "Welcome to Armenia. Have a pleasant stay." It sounded more of a trained piece of monologue than what came from the heart.
That done, I collected the luggage and went to the Viva kiosk to buy a local SIM card. I was more than pleasantly surprised that for AMD 3000 I could get 20 GB data and 1500 minutes of calls, that included India too! Next was currency exchange, which was a rip-off - though the girl said that they didn't take a commission, the exchange was at almost 20% discount. So, I exchanged only what I need for the trip to the city. Once outside the airport the full impact of the wintry day hit me, as well clothed as I was.I had three options to get to the city - taxi (AMD 1800, the fastest, though the costliest option), the luxury bus (AMD 500, one had to buy a ticket for it) and the minibus (AMD 300, the cheapest option, though not necessarily the comfortable option). My hotel was only 300 meters from the Republic Square, the most well-known place in Yerevan. The minibus dropped me almost a km from the Republic Square, and that was a surprise. I found a currency exchange on the way to the hotel and changed at the online rate of 1 USD for AMD 393.I had to walk gingerly as there was ice on the pavement and numerous puddles formed by melting ice. A feature I noticed was pedestrians sticking fiercely to pavements and sidewalks, no jay walkers could be seen. I had to, a couple of times, retrace my steps to find pedestrian crossing. The other thing that struck my mind was the ubiquitous presence of policemen and their vehicles with warning lights turned on.Finally, I reached the cozy confines of the modest Hotel Tigran Mets. The check in for three nights was done by a young girl, assisted by Sergei, a Russian, who seemed like he had seen many hard battles. The comfortable and neat small room with attached bathroom and clean linen suited my requirement. The room was overheated and I got the heating turned off!After a bath and arranging my things in the room, I ventured out for a bit of sightseeing. I had planned a long walk to cover five attractions. However, in a short while I realized that I would have to tone down my itinerary. Walking in the biting cold was tedious and tiring. The insurmountable obstacle though was my creaking bones and withering muscles.The central square of Yerevan, the Republic Square, is only 300 meters from the hotels and most main roads radiate from there. The square has two main sections, the oval roundabout and another that contains a pool with a musical fountain known as the singing fountain. Of course, the fountains and all other water elements were non-functional due to the frozen pipes.During the Russian era the square was known as Lenin Square, with a prominent statue of Lenin placed there. After independence, the square was renamed, and the statue was removed. The oval section includes five prominent buildings in pink and yellow tuff, namely the Government House, the History Museum, the National Gallery, the Marriott Hotel and two buildings that formerly housed the ministries of foreign affairs and transport and communication.The chief architect of the square was Alexander Tamanian, who designed it in 1924. During summer, I could surmise, the square must surely be bustling with locals and tourists. The 3-hectare architectural highlight of the city is maintained by the Yerevan municipality. Workers could be seen clearing up the melting ice. Walking on the ice was tricky, one could slip and fall, especially if one didn't have the right kind of footwear.I made laborious progress from the Republic Square to the Matenadaran. I took the road behind the History Museum, the Northern Avenue to the Freedom Square. Northern Avenue is 450 meters long and mainly houses luxury residential apartments, high-end branded stores, coffee shops, restaurants, commercial buildings and nightclubs. At the start of the Northern Avenue is the symbolic key of Yerevan. The avenue has two floors of underground parking. The Northern Avenue ends at the Armenian opera and ballet theatre in the Freedom Square.The Freedom Square has been variously known as Liberty Square, Opera Square and Theatre Square during its long history. The highlights of the square are the imposing Opera and Ballet Theatre, the Freedom Park and the swan lake, the last named is an ice rink in winter. Bare trees adorned by icicles are a sight common in this season. The huge statues of writer Hovhannes Tumanyan and composer Alexander Spendiaryan are located in the square.Going past the Freedom Square I walked along the main Mesrop Mashtots Avenue, past the busy Grand Candy store, to the massive building of Matenadaran, which is a compound of two words meaning book and repository. It is officially the Mesrop Mashtots Institute of Ancient Manuscripts, named after the inventor of the Armenian Alphabet. His statue graces the entrance to the Matenadaran.It is officially the largest museum in the world of Armenian manuscripts. The building established in 1959 holds more than 23,000 manuscripts and fragments that was originally the collection of the Armenian church housed in Echmiadzin. Besides manuscripts, the Matenadaran holds a copy of the Urbatagirk, the first published Armenian book in Venice in 1512, and all issues of the first Armenian magazine Azdarar ("Herald"), published in Madras from 1794 to 1796. The first map printed in Armenian—in Amsterdam in 1695—is also kept at the Matenadaran.After touring the awesomely maintained three storeyed museum with an entrance fee of AMD 2000 per adult, I walked pass the 'Eternal Alphabet' wall, an art relief project honoring the invention of the Armenian alphabet. Creation of the alphabet in 405–406 became one of the key events in Armenian history.A short walk through a set of residential buildings brought me to the Cafesjian Center for the Arts (CCA), which is dedicated to bringing the best of contemporary art to Armenia and presenting the best of Armenian culture to the world. CCA, established in 2009, continues to exhibit unique works of modern and contemporary art. The CCA is at the base of the Cascade Complex, a major attraction in Yerevan. The original idea of cascading waterfalls and terraced gardens was the brainchild of Alexander Tamanian, whose statue greets the visitor to the Cascade Complex.The Cascade consists of five hillside terraces built of yellow tuff connected with nearly 600 steep steps. The uppermost platform is called the Monumental Terrace. It houses the 40th Anniversary of Soviet Armenia monument, standing 118 meters tall. The terrace overlooks the main avenue of Yerevan and is within earshot of the Victory Park which houses the Mother of Armenia monument. The climb from the CCA to the Monumental Terrace was a test of determination and grit, as far as my body was concerned. The hips almost fell apart. However, the climb down to the CCA was a relief.I walked back to the hotel; the cold was biting and I had to find some refuge from it. I pared into a supermarket on Northern Avenue and bought a couple of bottles of Armenian beer, Kilikia. It is the most popular beer in Armenia. A 500 ml costs AMD 540, about INR 120. It did not take much time to polish off the two bottles. Armed with a liter of the lager beer inside the protuberance, I walked the short distance to the Tashir Pizza, recommended by Sergei in the hotel.The comfortable diner had an array of options of soup, pasta, pizza, drinks, salads, local delicacies, deserts, juices, cocktails and cocktails. I settled for broccoli soup, veg risotto, mushroom spaghetti and kievian cake. You can imagine how famished I was; I had not had a single full meal since 6 pm on 28 February when I left Gandhidham. The food was excellent and the service more so. The spread cost me just Rs. 800!After the massive feast I took a short walk in the Republic Square to see the lit-up buildings. Possibly because of the weather, I didn't find it all that much impressive. That rounded up the first day of the Lenten vacation and I made haste to the comfort room in Hotel Tigran Mets.
Wednesday, March 19, 2025
Historical Link Between India And Armenia
2. The Christians of Madras give credit to Armenians for locating the tomb of St. Thomas, the Apostle who brought Christian faith to the Indian sub-continent in 52 A.D. The church built by the Portuguese in 1523 was the result of Armenian Merchants taking them there in 1517. Two centuries later, another Armenian trader built 160 broad stone steps that led to the hilltop shrine. Pilgrims, to this day, benefit from the 18th century work of an Armenia trader.
3. Madras was also the birthplace of Armenian journalism and the home of Father Haroutiun Shmavonian who published the first Armenian periodical in the world, the Azdarar, in 1794.
4. The first full-fledged Armenian colony was established in the town of Agra where the first Armenian church was built in 1562 during the reign of Akbar, the Great. Akbar not only paid for the construction of the church, but in later years took an Armenian woman by the name of Mariam as one of his Queens, appointed Abdul Hai, an Armenian, as his chief justice and took on an Armenian woman doctor, Juliana, to look after his family.5. In Agra's main Christian cemetery on the outskirts of town, is an ancient mausoleum, which also serves as a chapel, and the old tombstones of more than 100 Armenians. An interesting fact is that not a single woman was buried there between 1611 and 1777, an indication that the Armenian men who came to Agra for trade left their wives and families behind.
6. One of the prominent Armenians of Delhi in the late 1700's was Colonel Jacob Petrus, the son of an Armenian merchant from Yerevan, Armenia, who made a name for himself fighting on the side of the Scindiahs against British colonialists in Gwalior. When he died in 1870, instead of a traditional 21-gun salute, he was given a farewell with a 95-gun salute, representing his age.7. Sarmad, the Armenian merchant cum Sufi poet, came to India during the reign of Emperor Shah Jehan. He was beheaded near the Jama Masjid in Old Delhi in 1611 and his tomb is more than a shrine where many gather to offer prayers even today.
8. The Armenians of Surat were mostly merchants who operated their own private ships for trading with Europe, transporting their products outside India in Armenian-owned ships. The business acumen of Armenians in India was highly regarded by the British who secured their intercession with the Mogul Court for trading privileges in India. An agreement was signed in London on June 22, 1688 between the East India Company and "the Armenian Nation," represented by Khojah Phanoos Kalandar, a native of New Julfa who had settled in Surat.
9. After Bombay was taken over by the British in 1661 Surat lost its luster and Armenians settled in Bombay, where they were not only traders and businessmen but also became prominent in many professions such as medicine.10. Between 1855 and 1893, there were more than 25 Armenian advocates in the Calcutta High Court alone.
11. Though the number of Armenians in India almost never exceeded 20,000, their involvement in every facet of Indian life gave them the kind of prominence and exposure seldom enjoyed by any other community of traders and merchants.
12. There are Armenia streets in Calcutta and Madras even today. Armenian churches are still in Armenian hands, and a small, but determined Armenian community still lives in India with the pride of the contribution of their ancestors as legacy. There are seven Armenian churches and two schools in India – 3 in Kolkata, one each in Chinsurah, Saidabad, Chennai and Mumbai.
Tuesday, March 18, 2025
A Lenten Vacation - March 2025
These are certain basic facts about Armenia.
a. Armenia’s currency is Armenian Dram (AMD). The denominations of AMD are 1000, 2000, 5000, 10000, 20000, 50000, 100000 in currency notes and 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 in coins. The exchange rate is approximately 1 INR = 4.5 AMD.b. Armenian is the most popularly spoken language (97%) in Armenia with Russian being the most popular second language (89%); Kurmanji is the largest minority language spoken by 1.3% of the population
c. Armenia is a land-locked West Asian country, bordered by Azerbaijan, Georgia, Iran and Turkey; known for its dramatic landscapes of mountains, valleys, waterfalls and lakes. Land area is approximately 28,500 sq km; the main cities of Armenia are Yerevan, where more than 30% of the population reside, Gyumri and Vanadzord. The interesting fact about Armenian population is that while 3 million Armenians live in their own country, close to 4 million live in over 100 countries with about 2.5 million Armenians living in USA and Russia. 64% of Armenians live in urban areas and median age is 37 years with life expectancy of 75 years. 97% of Armenians are Christians
e. The Armenian Flag is a tricolor, rectangular in shape with equal horizontal bands of red, blue and orange. The current flag was adopted in August 1994. The colors of the flag symbolize Armenian people’s struggle for survival, the people’s will to live under peaceful skies and their creative talent and hard-working nature.
f. The popular sports in Armenia are football, basketball, ice hockey and volleyball. In the Olympics they take part in swimming, diving, track and field, boxing, gymnastics and shooting.g. The Armenian GDP grows at over 8% per annum with the GDP per capita of over USD 20,000 on purchasing power parity, almost double that of India. The country has a declining birth rate. The major exports from the country are gold, copper ore, jewelry and broadcasting equipment.
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