Balkan Trip 3 - Podgorica, Montenegro walking tour - 21 October 2026

Before beginning the tour of Montenegro, I learnt the following details about the country. Montenegro is a small, mountainous country located along the Adriatic Sea, with Podgorica as its administrative capital. The name of the country translates to "Black Mountain" from Venetian, inspired by the dark pine forests covering Mount Lovcen. The population of the country is about 620,000, the official language is Montenegrin and the people are called Montenegrins. The country has been independent since 2006 and is a parliamentary republic.

Over 80 percent of the country is mountainous and is home to the deepest canyon at the Tara River and the massive Lake Skadar. Besides these, the other touristy places are Kotor, Budva and the Durmitor National Park. The economy is heavily dependent on seasonal tourism along the country's scenic Adriatic coast. Montenegro is classified as an upper-middle-income country, with a GDP per capita of roughly $14,000. It is a relatively prosperous Balkan nation, compared to others in the region.

Montenegro uses the Euro as its official currency even though it is not in the Schengen zone or the European Union. One can enter Montenegro for up to 30 days if one holds a valid, multiple-entry Schengen visa (valid visas from the US, UK, or Ireland are also accepted). Most importantly, the days spent in Montenegro do not count toward the 90-day limit inside the Schengen Area.

The largest religion in Montenegro is Eastern Orthodoxy (primarily Serbian Orthodox Church), practiced by over 70 percent of the population, while Islam accounts for 20 percent. Montenegro is a secular state with no official state religion. The country's Constitution guarantees freedom of religion and treats all registered religious communities as equal before the law.

I collated suggestions from online posts and organised walking tours of Podgorica and drew up a list of attractions I wished to visit this day; a walking tour that would cover almost 5 km. The weather didn't look promising at all, with cloudy skies and the occasional drizzle. The forecast for the day was for heavier rain as the day wore on. Keeping this in mind, I started my day a bit after 9 am, wearing a poncho and armed with a hat, if the head required added protection.

I walked past the Kings Park - was renovated in 2013 as a gift of the people of Azerbaijan - and the Hilton Hotel to the Independence Square. It is reportedly the main public square and social heart of Podgorica. It is a large open paved pedestrian space with a central water fountain. At the time of my visit everything was quiet and so also was the fountain.

At the head of the rectangular formation is an obelisk, dedicated to Duke Mirko Petrović and Montenegrin heroes who fought in the wars against the Ottomans in the 19th century. It was interesting to know that the 26-ton pedestal is crafted from Indian granite processed in Sarajevo, paired with marble from Prilep. A small farmer's market was coming alive in one of the flanks of the Independence Square.

Podgorica City Hall is the administrative headquarters of the Capital City of Podgorica. Constructed between 1029 and 1931, the City Hall building is one of the few that survived carpet bombing of Podgorica during WWII.

In front of the City Hall building is a statue of Marko Miljanov, who was born in 1833 in Medun and died in 1901. He got famous as leader of the Kuči clan, and later as a Montenegrin general and writer. Although he was illiterate like most of his countrymen, he learned to write when he was 50 years old. His legacy remains closely associated with Montenegro’s history and identity.

The Njegoseva street is a central pedestrian street and commercial thoroughfare in Podgorica. Located in the heart of the city centre, it is one of Podgorica’s most popular public spaces and serves as a focal point for shopping, dining, and everyday urban life. As one of the principal pedestrian zones in Podgorica, Njegoseva Street is designed for walking and socialising rather than vehicle traffic. Outdoor café terraces line much of the street, making it a popular gathering place.

The street is named after Petar II Petrovic-Njegos, the renowned Montenegrin ruler, warrior, poet, and philosopher, whose statue can be seen in the nearby park, opposite to the National Theatre. This statue was erected in 1956 and was the first sculpture placed in post-war Podgorica.

The Radosav Ljumović National Library is the oldest cultural institution in Podgorica, established in 1881 as the Podgorica Reading Room. It serves as the capital city's main public library. Montenegrin national theatre is Montenegro's leading performing arts venue. Founded in 1953, it hosts drama, opera, and orchestral performances.

There are many bridges across the Moraca River. The 140 m long Millennium Bridge has become the new symbol of the city. Ironically, it was finished five years after the new millennium. It carries motor vehicle traffic on two lanes plus dedicated pedestrian walkways on both sides.

Moscow Bridge, a charming pedestrian bridge in Podgorica, is a must-visit for anyone exploring the city. Spanning 105 meters over the Moraca River, this striking structure was crafted from steel sourced from Moscow and symbolizes the friendship between Montenegro and Russia. Opened in December 2008, it features unique benches that offer a cozy spot to take in the serene views of the river.

The Moscow Bridge was donated by the city of Moscow, with the original sculpture of a Russian musician. The Vladimir Vysotsky Monument is a bronze sculpture of the famous Russian poet, singer, and actor. Vysotsky visited the region while working on a film for Titograd TV and wrote the famous poem "For the Montenegrins," expressing his deep affection for the country.

The Blazo Jovanovic Bridge opened in 1950 is the city’s busiest bridge and is located near the confluence of Ribnica and Moraca rivers. The bridge was named after a Montenegrin national hero, Blazo Jovanovic. “Gazela” is an old pedestrian bridge, which is frequently used by the inhabitants of Podgorica.

In 2003, the city of Podgorica welcomed a stunning addition to its landscape: the Union Bridge. Spanning 173 meters, this modern structure was designed to ease traffic congestion that often plagued the Blazo Jovanovic Bridge. The Union Bridge not only serves a practical purpose but also enhances the beauty of Podgorica's urban scenery, making it a noteworthy landmark for both locals and visitors alike.

It was time for a cup of hot coffee, having braved the continuous drizzle for quite a while. I took a seat at the Camper Bar, near the Old Government Building. The hot and frothy cappuccino provided enough warmth to the innards to continue exploration of one of the greenest capital cities I have been to. With wide roads and well-maintained pedestrian walkways, the city is uncongested and traffic flows freely.

Beyond the Old Government Building is the bust of Vaso Brajevic, a Montenegrin Serb general who played a significant role in the Greek revolution against the Ottoman Empire in 1821. The headgear of the general is reminiscent of those in Rajasthan and Gujarat.

A short distance away is the monument to Josip Broz Tito. The bronze statue of the former Yugoslav leader was re-unveiled on December 19, 2018, coinciding with the anniversary of Podgorica's liberation in World War II. Podgorica had been named Titograd between 1946 to 1992 in honour of Tito. The city's airport code remains TGD.

Going over the Blažo Jovanović bridge I came to Skaline, which maybe the most beautiful part of Podgorica. Standing at the edge of the bridge, before going down the steps, I had the most glorious views of the Skaline, which is where the Ribnica river joins the Moraca, the confluence.

On the other side of the emerald-green Moraca River is the Podgorica Hotel, made of pebbles and stones from the riverbed, with three large terraces above the river. Unfortunately, the huge skyscraper close to the hotel spoils the view.

The Skaline is not only a scenic place but is also a place where a series of historical events happened in the past. The Turks used to have a fortress that functioned as a city here. It is believed that the founder of the Nemanjic dynasty was born there. The Romans and Illyrians were present, too. There is a hidden memorial plaque that proves the existence of a radio-telegraph station erected by the French during World War I.

I walked down the cobblestone steps and 'met with' the Old Ribnica river bridge, the oldest bridge in Podgorica. It spans the Ribnica River, which was dry at the time of my visit, near its confluence with the Moraca River. It is said to have been originally built during the Roman rule and rebuilt and given its current appearance during the 18th century under Ottoman architecture. It serves as an excellent location for photoshoots. I walked to the edge of the Moraca River and spent some time in the serene surroundings.

Leaving the river and climbing up from the Skaline I came to the Nemanjica Grad, the remains of the bulwarks and towers of the medieval fortification of Ribnica. It is traditionally considered the birthplace of the founder of the Serbian Nemanjic dynasty. It is now a cultural monument and picnic area.

Walking past the Nemanjica Grad I walked into the past, the Stara Varos, which is the historic Ottoman-era old town of Podgorica. It served as the urban core of the city from the 15th through the 19th centuries.

The quarter features winding, narrow alleys, traditional stone walls, and old-style courtyard houses that offer a glimpse into Podgorica's Ottoman past. It is now a quiet, residential neighbourhood that contrasts sharply with the modern, bustling high-rises of the Nova Varos, the new part of the city.

At the heart of the historic Stara Varos is the Clock tower, a 19-meter-tall freestanding Ottoman stone tower. The clock tower was built in 1667 with a square stone base and a pyramidal roof. It was fitted in 1890 with an Italian turret clock mechanism and a metal cross was added to the top the same year to mark the transfer of the city to Christian Montenegrins. It is one of the rare Ottoman-era structures to survive the heavy World War II bombings of Podgorica and is a protected cultural monument.

From the Clock Tower I walked to the Osmanagic Mosque, built in the late 18th century, featuring a classic single minaret. It is a historic Ottoman-era Mosque located in the old Stara Varos neighbourhood. The premises also holds the open-air tomb, called turbe, of its 18th-century builder and founder, Hajji Mehmet-Pasha Osmanagic, who also commissioned the Clock Tower. The open-air structure features four finely hewn stone pillars supporting a semi-circular masonry dome.

While entering the premises of the mosque I met Ali, a cherubic 11-year-old, who said that he would show me around. Speaking flawless English, he said that he was just getting home from school. He told me that he had heard that India is a poor country and that the gap between the rich and poor is wide. I was amazed by Ali's understanding of India. A precocious child, genuine and helpful, he asked me if he could be of any other help for me. That interaction with Ali was another reinforcement of previous life connects, I believe strongly in.

I had taken quite a beating in the consistent drizzle and the insides called for a hot meal. Situated near the Clock Tower is a traditional restaurant, the Pod Volat. I went into the restaurant that had a fair sprinkling of guests at the time. I left my wet poncho and hat at the entrance and found a seat deep inside the restaurant, which specialises in Montenegrin and Balkan dishes. I ordered a bottle of local beer, Niksicko Svijetlo. It is the best-known and most popular light beer from Montenegro, produced at the Trebjesa Brewery in Niksic since 1896.

From the traditional, homemade specialties I ordered a beef goulash. The spiced thick gravy and slow-cooked meat was served with the traditional Montenegrin bread, the Crnogorska pogaca. It is a dense, rustic peasant bread made without yeast and baked under a hot dome. It was a feast I thoroughly enjoyed. The quiet efficiency and hospitality of the waiters added to the unforgettable experience.

I walked briskly back to the accommodation, as the drizzle had picked up in intensity. I bought grapes and plums from the neighbourhood farmer market and rested a while in the apartment, waiting for a let up in the weather.

When it did, I went to the nearby Podgorica bus station and booked a bus ticket for a ride to Kotor the next morning. I was done for the day by 3 pm.