In Kutaisi, Georgia - 3 June 2024

The breakfast in the hotel was served in the adjacent Siam Restaurant. The modest restaurant serves Thai and European cuisine. The breakfast was very Continental. We could choose from the options of Fried Eggs, Omlette, Scrambled Eggs or Vegetarian. The last named had cheese, jam and honey as an alternative to eggs and sausage in the non-vegetarian options. The common items were sliced cucumber, tomatoes, bread slices, orange juice and coffee or tea. The breakfast was a tummy filler, without a doubt.

Last evening when we were strolling on the White Bridge we were approached by a tour operator for a day trip to Martvili Canyon. Since it was already on our plan for this day, we did not take the offer. The Canyon visit is one of the most popular in Georgia and the most visited from Kutaisi. From Waze we gathered that the distance to the Canyon is under 50 km from Kutaisi.

The last ten kilometers of the route is broken and has to be negotiated carefully. Exposed sewage covers, half topped roads, potholes and loose river stones can play havoc with the car tyres and make the ride uncomfortable. To top it, vehicles trying to avoid all of the above can be seen rushing headlong into your vehicle.

When we reached the place suggested by Waze, numerous placards with Free Parking written in them could be seen. When I veered into one, I was approached by drivers who offered to take me to five sights of the Canyon for a price of 55 GEL per person. I bargained and brought the charge down to 35 GEL per person for the 90-minute experience. We boarded a brand-new Mitsubishi SUV and set off.

The Kaghu waterfall was the first location, about 5 km away from the car park. A few visitors had come on their own too. But, the poor signposting and lack of knowledge of Georgian forces visitors like us on to the lap of such operators. No doubt, negotiating the narrow road leading to the waterfall requires exceptional skills.

We were driven to a small parking lot near a large iron bridge, linking the banks of the Abasha River. At the base of the bridge one can drink fresh water straight from a fountain. The water was cold and refreshing. We crossed the iron bridge and walked through a small residential settlement that had homestays, restaurants, cafes and vendors selling honey. These remain open when the weather is good, as it was when we visited.

As you walk along, the melodious sounds of the waterfall can be heard. When we reached the clearing from where the waterfall could be seen, it was very nice and cool. Big round stones have to be negotiated to get to the water, which is clear and pristine. The falls itself is not very tall, but one is discouraged from getting to the base of the fall because of the depth and under currents. I was told that intrepid swimmers, however, cannot be discouraged thus. Anyway, the water is so cold that it is impossible to stay in the water for very long.

From the waterfall we walked back to the car park walking steadily over the iron bridge politely refusing smiling, yet persistent, vendors of honey and local food. We were next driven back on the road from where we came to the border of the Balda Canyon Natural Monument to see the gorge created by the Abasha River. The Balda Canyon is 1400 meters long, 5 to 10 meters wide and the gorge is 25 to 30 meters deep.

The gushing waters, the deep blue of the small pools and the sheer drop and limestone rifts were magnificent to behold. The gorge that spread beneath us had mossy rocks and waters that were at times sapphire blue and then emerald green. We stood there staring, marvelling at the wonders of nature, wondering at the stories these marvels may have to tell of centuries and millennia past. The driver shook us from the reverie and said we have other places to visit too. 

The 'Georgian Niagara' was the next attraction to savour. At this point the Abasha River falls across a built-up concrete crescent shaped wall to a deep gorge below. From an iron bridge, that operates sluices of the causeway, one can experience the turquoise blue waters of the river flowing smoothly over the concrete wall.

The waters of the river seemed to be less because the entire crescent wall was not covered by the flow. When it does, I am sure the flow would seem Niagara like, albeit a miniature version. We walked to the top of the gorge from where the waters falling into the riven gorge could be appreciated. One has to be careful here because of slippery round stones and slush. The views were magnificent.

The next stop was at the gorge which was the border between the Martvili and Balda Canyons. That's when I realised that I was visiting a Canyon different from that I had intended to when i set out from Kutaisi. I would put this blooper down to my poor research. The Martvili Canyon is much longer at 2.4 km and has 50 to 70 meter high walls. One can walk the 700-meter walking trail to appreciate the gorge and take inflatable boat rides too.

A missed opportunity, but surely the government could have put up better signs along the route to help first time tourist like me. In fact, the Martvili Canyon is approached from the Inchkhuri village! The last two attractions on the list of the Balda Canyon visit were views of the gorge. The views were good and the trip concluded in the car park where we had parked the car.

We drove back to Kutaisi, negotiating the bad roads gingerly. The Bagrati's Cathedral is only a ten-minute drive from the Kutaisi city centre. The walled cathedral, a masterpiece of medieval Georgian architecture, is perched on top of the Ukimerioni Hill. The church, built in 1003, evidently has been through many reconstructions as could be surmised from the many artefacts in the church compound. There are ancillary stone buildings and a bell tower adjacent to the church.

The controversial conservation works in 2012 prompted UNESCO to include the building in the list of endangered World Heritage Sites and later to remove the church from the World Heritage Site list altogether. The church is imposing, to say the least. The ruin around the church gives one a glimpse of the troubled times it had been through especially during the Ottoman times. Many old women sit at the entrance of the church seeking alms and donations for the church. The massive interior of the church is awe inspiring in itself.

We headed back to hotel for a break from the heat, even though not oppressive. Two important visits planned during the stay in Kutaisi had to be given up. The road from the city to the Gelati Monastery was under extensive repair and I could not find a way out of that morass using either Google Maps or Waze. The Kutaisi Great Synagogue is only open for two hours each in the morning and evening and the hours didn't suit us.

That left us with the Holy Annunciation Church, the disputed church between the Georgian Orthodox and Catholic factions of the Christian Church. The 15th century St Sophia church survived till the 19th century, when it completely destroyed. Franciscan missionaries, known as Capuchins, settled on the banks of the Rioni River in the 17th century. They were commissioned by the King in 1862 to build a Catholic church in the place of the destroyed St Sophia church.

The Catholics conducted service in the church till 1989 when the control of the church was handed over back to the Georgian Orthodox church, thereby igniting a dispute which is as yet unresolved. However, the Vatican style paintings and artefacts are still preserved within the fantastic church. The exterior of the baroque style church is undergoing massive restoration works.

Unable to find our way to the Gelati Monastery we landed up in the Gelati Theological Academy and Seminary. Church service was going on within, which we participated in for some time. The setting of the seminary and church is unique, and we spent a few minutes lounging on a bench with the flowing waters of River Rioni, cascading over rounded stones, ringing in our ears.

When I returned to the hotel I got a parking slot right in front of the hotel. As we were set to leave early for Batumi the next day, when breakfast wouldn't be ready, we requested the reception for packed breakfast. She confirmed a while later that she would rustle up something for us by 7 am. 

I had a pint of Kayaki draft beer before we went down to a small park right opposite the hotel. The Park had a cafe overlooking the river, which seemed to be a popular hang-out for locals. The Park has many stone sculptures, mainly of women, set up in circles.

Dinner was in the restaurant adjacent to the hotel. The Thai food we ordered at the Siam Restaurant was superb. We had vegetable spring rolls, that was advertised as the specialty of the restaurant, a salad of greens, tomatoes and peanuts without fish oil and a portion of vegetable Phad Thai.

When the orders were served on the table, we thought that we would have to pack some of it. But slowly we got through the entire order, and I washed it down with another round of Kayaki draft beer. It was time to take one last walk over the White Bridge and enjoy the peaceful and healthy environment.