Just before 8 am Ajay completed the check out and we started our walk to the car park with the luggage. The Monday morning rush was visible, and we were happy to have left as early as we did. It was a fair walk through the Philharmonic Park and the Azneft Square. As compared to the previous evening the car park was almost deserted. A group of women were engaged in Yoga and many others on their morning walk.
Ajay completed the payment for parking without much hassle. The overnight parking cost just 5 AZN. Getting out of Baku city was not difficult, thanks to the accuracy of Waze. At the car rental we were told that Google Maps would not be accurate enough in Azerbaijan and that we should use Waze instead. That was precious advice; we had a few experiences that proved the car rental staff correct.
Our first destination for the day was the Jumma Masjid in Shamakhi, a distance of 120 km from Baku. After leaving the city we hit the amazing M4 highway, exceptionally carpeted and weaving its magic through the Caucuses Mountain range. The permitted speed ranged mostly between 90 and 110 kph. Waze regularly warned of upcoming speed radars and the speeds to be maintained.
Another piece of crucial information given by the car rental company was that up to the speed limit plus 9 km would not attract any fine. The speed limit markers were placed at intermittent locations, and one can never miss them. Even the speed radars were pre-warned. The intention of the authority was very clear - keep the driver and passengers safe and within the law. In India this is not the case. Speed markers are mostly absent, and speed cameras are used to monetarily decapitate drivers who inadvertently cross the invisible speed limits!
After driving about 50 km enjoying the road conditions and the landscape Ajay spotted a couple of markers for mud volcanoes on Google Maps. We decided to explore those markers and took a diversion. Missing them the previous day had remained a sore point in the mind. The diversion took us through barren stretches of the small mountain range to the energy generation and transmission office of Azenergi. This is in the Gobustan region.
Ajay enquired with the kind man who manned the security gate of the complex and was told that we had passed it on the way to the energy complex. We remembered having seen something that resembled mud volcanoes on the way but had decided to cross-check. We made haste to that location after thanking the gentleman for his time. Azerbaijan has the most number of mud volcanoes in any country, spread across the country. 350 of the 700 mud volcanoes of the world are in the Azerbaijani Republic.
A mud volcano or mud dome is created by the eruption of mud or slurries, water and gases. Mud volcanoes do not produce lava and are not created by magmatic activity. They range in size from a mere 1 metre to over 700 meters and 19 km wide. Smaller mud exudations are referred to as mud-pots. This is what we saw over the small mountain side. Most of the mud pots were active, spilling the exudations that resembled bentonite and clay. The overflow was not hot to touch. Even though the mudpots were not magnificent, at least it helped understand the phenomenon. The exudations are used for mud baths in many countries.
After having rectified a deficiency of the previous day's program we left for the Juma Masjid in Shamakhi, which is historically very significant. Juma Mosque of Shamakhi is considered the first mosque in the Caucasus, which was built in 733-734 CE, signifying the growth of Islam with the advance of Arab conquests. There have been many reconstructions over the years due to earthquakes and war.
At the entrance to the mosque one can see remnants of the structures in the millennium gone by. The mosque has a large warship hall, divided into three separate sections connected with each other by open and large apertures. Each part of the mosque has a separate mihrab and aperture for entrance. Juma Mosque is called three-hall mosque because of a such plan. The caretaker of the mosque requested us to make a donation to the mosque as we were exploring it.
The 85 km from Shamakhi to Yeddi Gozel waterfall had to be negotiated carefully as most part of it is under reconstruction and road widening. Massive projects are in progress. The mountainous waterfall flows from the highest peaks of the Caucasus Mountains and is located in Vandam village of Gabala. The name of the 'Seven Beauties' (Yeddi Gozal) Waterfall originates from the name of the 7 mountain roads that one should pass to reach the waterfall.
The waterfall is completely frozen in the winter. But tea houses spring up on every mountain road during fair weather and travelers can get a tea set with traditional types of Gabala jam. Even at the highest point of the waterfall, there is a tea house with a special wooden mattress where you can drink tea with the pleasant sound and scenery of the waterfall in the background. The water of the tea is taken from the waterfall and gives a unique taste to it.
Only two small waterfalls are visible below. To see the other five waterfalls, one has to climb up steep stairs, which requires stamina and determination. The last bit was so steep that Ajay made a lonely trip to the top of the 53-meter waterfall. There were plenty of visitors and most seemed keener on selfies rather than enjoying the salubrious environment and the eye cooling sights.
The long day this far and the energy sapping climb had made us hungry. We turned into a restaurant that looked busy and ordered an eggplant salad and a chicken Ceaser Salad. The latter was more toasted bread pieces and mayonnaise than anything else. Anyway, that was something to fill the stomach.
The Nohur Lake is less than 10 km from the waterfall towards Gabala city. The eye-catching Lake with the magnificent view of the Caucasus Mountains, fresh air, and water is surely one of the most picturesque places of Gabala. I was amazed by the beauty of the Nohur lake. The quiet atmosphere chirping of birds and quacking of ducks create a relaxing environment. Swimming in the lake is prohibited as the lake is also used as a reservoir and provides drinking water for Gabala and surrounding regions. Paddle boats and catamarans are available on hire to tour the vast lake and enjoy the fantastic landscape. It is also a perfect place for fishing.
At the time of our visit the lake was overflowing and many places near low-lying shops were inundated. People could be seen using motor pumps to pump the water back into the lake. Many shops fringe the lakeside selling local handicrafts, jams, honey, souvenirs, shawls and such like. There are many eateries too, one prominently displaying the availability of Indian cuisine, pointing to many visitors from India. Ajay mentioned that Azerbaijan has been seeing a resurgence in tourism that has grown 36 percent year-on-year. The maximum contribution has come from India, Russia and China.
The city of Gabala lay just 12 km from the lake and our hotel a few km beyond that. We went there, paid the hotel charge, lodged our luggage and drove to the Tufandag Mountain Resort. That the place is on every tourists' agenda was amply on display. Most of the ample car parking was full and tourist buses were aplenty. There is a Cable Car which one can take from Gabala city which lets you go up to the Mountain Resort and there on to higher peaks and explore the beauty of the mountains and nature from up there.
For skiing enthusiasts, the ski facility at Tufandag offers 12 kilometers of slopes, with a mix of challenging reds and blacks for experts and easy options for beginners. The slopes have state-of-the-art snow guns besides being served by a network of cable cars, which offer gorgeous views of the Caucasus Mountains. There is a ski school too. The Resort offers a range of accommodation options including luxury and upper-mid level hotels. In summer, like the time we were visiting, visitors can enjoy plenty of outdoor adventures from hiking, quadra-biking and cycling to paragliding and jeep tours.
The place reminded me of Solang Valley, near Manali. Of course, in terms of the facilities, cleanliness and service there is no comparison. Tufandag is what we can make of Solang Valley. On the way back to the accommodation we stopped at a grocery store and picked up a couple of hotdogs and some fresh cherries for dinner. The wine we had bought yesterday in Baku, a red Yeddi Gozel, served us well while watching Rohit Sharma on the rampage against Australia.
No comments:
Post a Comment