A weekend in Dwaraka - 20 April 2024

The recent opening of the Sudarshan Sethu linking Dwaraka and Beyt Dwaraka piqued my curiosity to visit the twin towns. The history of Dwarka dates back centuries. The place is mentioned in the Mahabharata epic as the Dwaraka Kingdom. It is situated on the banks of river Gomti and is described in legend as the capital of Krishna. Evidence found in underwater excavations and studies suggest that the harbour site dates to historical times. Coastal erosion seems the most probable cause for destruction of what was an ancient port and trading centre.

The hotel I chose to stay over the weekend in Dwaraka was the Dwarkadhish Lord's Eco Inn, where I found a decent bargain on booking.com. I was a bit late to book the sea view rooms, but for a solo traveler the city room view was adequate, being over 200 sft, with an ensuite bathroom. The hotel is situated within three minutes of the beach and almost all important sites in Dwaraka are within walkable distance. So, I would give it a 10/10 for location. Besides, I had chosen the option for breakfast and dinner to be added to the room tariff. The set menu dinner was a five-course affair, which naturally, I couldn't do any justice to. Similarly, the buffet breakfast was an awesome spread with a mix of Continental, South Indian and local fare. Hence, accommodation and food another 10/10.

The first site I visited in Dwaraka was the Rukmini Devi Temple, about 2 km from the town. Goddess Rukmini was Lord Krishna's chief queen and beloved consort. The temple is believed to be 2,500 years old but the present temple site is supposed to be from the 12th century and the structure from the 19th century. It is a richly carved temple decorated with sculptures of gods and goddesses on the exterior with the sanctum housing the beautiful marble idol of Devi Rukmani, with four hands holding Shanka, Chakra, Gada and Padma.

A legend explains the separate temples, away from each other, for Rukmini and her husband Krishna. It is said that at the request of sage Durvasa, Krishna and Rukmini pulled a chariot taking the sage to their house for dinner. On the way, Rukmini asked Krishna for water to quench her thirst. Krishna drew Ganges water by prodding the ground with his toe for her to drink. While Rukmini quenched her thirst, Durvasa was outraged that Rukmini had not offered him water to drink first. Therefore, he cursed her that she would live separately from her husband and that Dwaraka would not have potable water. The temple is reportedly the place where Rukmini stood and even today water for the town comes by tanker from over 20 km away. Hence, the temple is also known for its jal daan (water offering) custom where devotees are asked to donate water to temple. The yatra to Dwarka is said to be complete only with the darshan of Dwarkeshwari Rukmini Maharani.

On the way back to the Hotel I came across the beautiful ISCON Gate, which is essentially a welcome gate to the town. It has a large mural of the Lord and his consort as well as many gopikas.

From the hotel I walked along the recently laid walkway along the beach to the Samudra Narayan Temple, situated at the confluence of River Gomti and the Arabian Sea. The Temple is dedicated to Goddess Gomti. Legend has it that River Gomti was brought from heaven by Rishi Vasishtha to sanctify Rama after his battle with Ravana. After purification of Rama, Goddess Gomti manifested here on the ghat and got submerged into the Arabian Sea. The temple is surrounded by Panchanada Tirtha, which comprises 5 wells that have sweet water; the most noteworthy feature of the temple is that the waves of the sea continuously crash on the temple walls.

From the Sanmudra Narayan Temple I walked along the narrow lane, past the Gomti Ghat, where I was fascinated by vendors selling seashells of different sizes, shapes and colours. I picked up some for my grandchildren and ambled along the ghat, mesmerized by the sea of people indulging in matters spiritual and touristy. People sat near the ghat feeding large schools of fish and families rented water scooters for short rides in the choppy water channel.

The Sudama Sethu pedestrian bridge over Gomti river connects mainland Dwarka and the island southeast of it. The bridge was built in 2016 to boost tourism. The bridge is 166 meters long and 4.2 meters wide. At the time of my visit the bridge was closed for repairs, following the tragedy that befell visitors in Morbi.

The main shrine of the five-storied Dwarkadhish Temple, supported by 72 pillars, is known as Jagat Mandir. Archaeological findings suggest that the original temple was built around 200 BCE. The present temple was rebuilt and enlarged in the 15th-16th century following the destruction of the original structure by Mahmud Begada in 1473.

The temple is constructed of limestone and has intricate carvings. There are two important entrances to the temple, the Moksha Dvara (meaning "Door to Salvation") and the Svarga Dvara (meaning: "Gate to Heaven"). Outside this doorway are 56 steps that lead to the Gomati River. One cannot take mobiles, camera and footwear into the temple premises. These can be deposited for safekeeping in one of the hundreds of shops that line the stairway from the Gomti River, which I took to go to the Temple. The safekeeping will cost a minimum of Rs. 100 for which you get prashad for offering in the temple. The temple spire rises to a height of 78 metres. A flag, hoisted over the spire, is 50 feet long, which is replaced four times a day with a new one. Devotees sheel out enormous amounts to offer a new flag. The funds thus raised go towards the operation and maintenance of the temple.

Adi Shankara, who created Hindu monastic institutions across India, is attributed with the origin of Char Dham. The four monasteries, Badrinath Temple in the north, Jagannath Temple in the east, Ramanathaswamy Temple in the south and Dwarakadhish Temple in the west are a must visit pilgrimage for Hindus at least once in their lifetime. There is a shrine within the temple dedicated to the memorial of the seer's visit. According to legend, Meera Bai, the famed Rajput princess, who was also a poetess-saint and a staunch devotee of Krishna, merged with the deity at this temple. It is one of the Sapta Puris, the seven holy cities of India.

The market area was alive and throbbing with weekend tourists, almost all local. Vendors were everywhere and doing brisk business. Camel rides seemed a popular tourist pastime. Brightly decked up camels and their enterprising handlers spawn another side business. A couple of girls could be seen selling grass for cattle. One of them appealed to me, Dada, inko khila de (Oh elder, please feedback them). Jokingly, I asked them: Mujhe kaun khilayega (Who will feed me?). Like a whiplash came her response: Bhagwan aapko khilayega (The Lord will feed you), half gazing at my belly that strained at the buttons of the shirt.

The Bhadkeshwar Mahadev Temple is an ancient and enchanting Shiva temple and is among the major tourist places in Dwarka. Built on a small hillock on the Arabian Sea, the Bhadkeshwar Temple is dedicated to Chandra-Mouliswar Shiva. This temple enshrines a Shivalinga in the sanctum which was found at the confluence of Gomati, Ganga and Arabian Sea by the Jagatguru Sankaracharya himself.

There is a unique legend associated with the temple. Abhisheka of the Shivalinga is done by the sea itself, when on a day in June/July the Arabian Sea slowly rises and enters the temple. For a short period, the whole temple is submerged, when the abhisheka of the Shivalinga is done. After the sea has offered its prayers, it retreats to its normal stage. There are steps to reach the temple, but the temple gets surrounded by water during the high tide. The Temple spot offers a panoramic view of Dwarka's coastline.

The Sunset Point is a few hundred meters from the Bhadkeshwar Mahadev Temple. A seated marble statue of the Adi Shankaracharya with folded hands greets you at the entrance to the calm and soothing viewpoint, where one can relax and enjoy the sunset.

In close proximity to the sunset point is the Dwaraka lighthouse, which is yet another oft visited Dwarka tourist attraction. The lighthouse tower, inaugurated in July 1965, is about 43 meters high. Tourists flock in large numbers here too to witness the panoramic views of the sunset.