Tuesday, December 20, 2022
A PHILLIPPINE FAIRYTALE - 'Mall'ing in Manila - 6 December 2022
A PHILLIPPINE FAIRYTALE - A Tour of Chinatown, Manila - 5 December 2022
With the baggage still in the custody of Air Asia the routine of drying the underclothes, socks and t-shirt continued this morning too. Intent on trying a motorized tricycle to Binondo I stepped out of the residence and went to a tricycle stand. I struck a deal with a kind man for 150 PHP for the 3 km ride. Initially I sat inside the low seated tricycle. Not only was it incredibly uncomfortable I could see nothing on the outside. I requested the driver to take me pillion for the rest of the ride to which he readily agreed. However, the contraption was such that I could not sit astride.
Perched with my face parallel to the pavement and holding on for dear life in the morning hour, which got worse as we neared Binondo, the 15 minute ride seemed an eternity. The arch at the entrance of Binondo, past the Pasig River, welcomed visitors to Chinatown.Binondo is reportedly the oldest Chinatown in the world. It was established in 1594 by the Spanish for the Catholic Chinese, within close proximity of Intramuros, but across the Pasig River. The Chinese had been in Manila before the Spaniards as traders and Binondo was already a thriving centre for commerce. Even today a walk through Binondo reveals how critical it is to trade and commerce in Manila. The trades established by Filipino-Chinese are in full swing with the area bustling. One of the things I was told is to be careful of my belongings while moving through Binondo. Petty thefts and snatchings are not uncommon here. There are warnings in busy stores asking one to beware of pickpocketing. When I went to a police kiosk to ask for directions the two policemen there told me to hold on to my backpack securely.I got dropped at the Binondo Church. Established in 1596 for Chinese Christian converts, the church has gone through many rebuildings and renovation. The original church was completely destroyed in 1762 due to British bombardment. A granite structure came up in 1852, which also suffered extensive damage during WWII.The church which was then known as Our Lady of the Most Holy Parish now goes by the name of Minor Basilica and National Shrine of Lorenzo Ruiz, who was the first Filipino to be canonised by the Church in 1987.
Saint Ruiz was born to Filipino-Chinese parents and was trained in the Binondo Church before he left for Japan as a missionary. He and his three companions were arrested, tortured and asked to renounce their faith in return for freedom. Saint Ruiz stuck to his faith in Christ and gave up his life after incredible torture and hardships. The square opposite the Church, Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz, has a large statue of Lorenzo Ruiz and a memorial to the Filipino-Chinese martyrs of WWII.Next on my list was the President Grand Palace. I had picked up this from the internet as a must visit place. It even showed up on Google Map. Thinking that it would be a palace related to the President of Philippines I walked hither and thither through the super crowded Ongpin Street taking extra care of my backpack. The map sometimes showed me a few places short of the location and at other times ahead of it. Finally, a kind gentleman pointed to a building three doors away and I went there only for my jaw to drop. It was a fine dining restaurant that was reportedly popular for the foods they served. I was not ready for a meal at 10 am and walked briskly away admiring at the industry and hard work of people there. Jewellery shops and butchers seems to be doing brisk business apart from stores that vended cheap clothes.The Our Lady of the Pillar Parish Church, commonly known as the Santa Cruz Church, is a baroque Roman Catholic parish church. It was built when the suburb of Santa Cruz was established by the Jesuits in early 17th century. As you enter the church, on the right side, is an apse with a seated Christ and many vaults beside it. It is reportedly a very active parish and is unique in that it has a mosaic altar wall depicting The Sacrificial Lamb above the tabernacle instead of a statue of Our Lady. There is also a beautiful fountain in front of the church.
Through incredible, milling crowds I reached the Plaza Miranda, which was a centre point for political discourses during the rule of Ferdinand Marcos. The huge gatherings and even a violent bombing made this a historical landmark of the city. After years of neglect the square was renovated in 2000 and deemed as Freedom Park. Thousands pass through this Square daily and is seems to be the Manila equivalent of the New York Times Square.Despite fronting the Quiapo Church, Plaza Miranda and the streets surrounding it are known as a center for fortune telling. The practitioners claim that they have gained the gift from their devotion to the patron saint of Quiapo Church, the Black Nazarene. The Church, however, condemns this practice. The devotion to the Black Nazarene has grown manifold over the years. The statue of the black Christ was brought in by the Spanish in the 17th century and is considered to be miraculous with people kissing the feet of the statue.On the walk to the San Sebastian church I came across the Shrine of the Holy Face and walked in to find none there except a nun manning the store and a caretaker. The Holy Face of Jesus is said to have miraculously appeared on the shroud after Jesus' resurrection. Many contradictions and controversies surround the Holy Face of Jesus.From the outside the San Sebastian church looks run down and in urgent need of repair. It is the only steel church in the Philippines and was completed in 1891. The earlier structures made in 1621 and 1651 of wood and bricks were either burned down or destroyed by earthquakes. The prefab steel was brought in from Belgium to establish the Gothic revival baroque church. The church is under renovation since 2011. The altar is a makeshift wooden cut out with massive scaffoldings behind it.The National Shrine of Saint Jude Thaddeus is located within the Malacanang Palace complex with security restrictions. A popular school is situated close to it. Attendance at the Thursday novena at the shrine is very high as the Saint is the patron for hopeless cases.
The Malacanang Palace complex is where the President works from, and in the past they used to live there too. Security is very high and visits have to be pre-scheduled. My entreaties to visit the museum and library, or even to take a few pictures, met with stoic, but polite, refusals. Photography was a big no-no, too. I came away with a few photos of abandoned mansion gates in the vicinity!Gael and Alex picked me up from the Malacanang Palace complex area to go to the airport and retrieve the baggage. Instructions contained in the email I had received the previous evening were not so accurate as I discovered when I took the visitors pass as the arrival lounge. Despite the confusion and some moments of anxiety I finally was in possession of my suitcase. I asked the staff about the compensation for the inconveniences and he offered a paltry 1000 PHP. As I refused to accept that he directed me to file a complaint online.It was already past 4 pm and Alex took me to the United Club for an Indian meal. He ordered paneer tikka and chilly bombs for starters with a couple of chilled pints of Stella Artois. The main course was delectable chole with massive baturas. That was a heavy meal for an aging belly. Over the delayed lunch cum early dinner it was decided to forgo the Corrigedor island tour as the regular tour was suspended and a customised tour would be too time consuming and expensive. Instead, Alex offered to send me his car for mall hopping the following day.
A PHILLIPPINE FAIRYTALE - Tour of Old Manila - 4 December 2022
Walking past the Rizal Park I came across a popular golf course by the side of the Baluarte de San Diego that is one of the old fortifications within Intramuros. There were many interesting sculptures along the walk. One was the bust of José San Martin, who is regarded as a national hero of Argentina, Chile and Peru, a great military commander, and one of the Liberators of Spanish South America. The other was that of José Martà Pérez, who is considered a Cuban national hero because of his role in the liberation of his country from Spain. He was also an important figure in Latin American literature.
The memorial to Cory and Ninoy Aquino on a high pedestal had a few bouquets placed at its base. Ninoy, in whose name the Manila airport is, was the main opposition to Ferdinand Marcos. He was slain at the airport and his wife became the President of Philippines in 1986.
Also known as Old Manila, Intramuros is home to the city's iconic and historic landmarks that were built during the Spanish occupation in the Philippines. Within the 6 meter thick walls, in 146 acres are the ornate Manila Cathedral with its bronze carvings and rich stained glass windows, Fort Santiago, with a large stone gate and a shrine to national hero José Rizal, San Agustin Church, the oldest stone church in the Philippines, the University of the City of Manila, Spanish colonial furniture and art filled Casa Manila museum, and horse-drawn carriages (kalesa) that ply the area’s cobblestone streets.Fort Santiago was built as a Spanish fortification in 1571 beside the Pasig River and named after the patron saint of Spain, St. James. The entrance fee is 50 PHP for a senior citizen. The walk in humid conditions called for a cold drink and I spied a cafe near the visitors' center that advertised Halo Halo, the unofficial national dessert of Philippines. The tall clear glass contained crushed ice, coconut milk, jam, sweetened kidney beans, tender coconut strips, cubes of fruit preserves, agar and thick sugar paste. Taking my time over the drink I watched large number of visitors engage guides from the visitors' centre and soldiers doing their routines. The foreground of the Fort has many kiosks vending food, drink and memorabilia.Armed with a couple of maps from the visitors' centre I started my exploration of the ruins that once housed the Spanish and American armies. The central part of the fort is surrounded by a moat and is entered into from a reconstructed main gate.The major attractions within are the Jose Rizal shrine and the dungeons. The Rizal shrine museum has on display memorabilia of the hero, including letters written to his parents, brother and family before his execution, a recreation of the farcical trial and sentencing, the prison he was incarcerated in and his footsteps representing his final walk from his cell to the location of the execution. A very poignant and moving memorial, indeed.
A short distance away is a white cross which marks the spot where more than 600 bodies of Americans and Filipinos were recovered, believed to have been victims of Japanese depravity in February 1945. The nearby dungeons vividly bring home the tortures they would have been subjected to. The views of the Pasig River are awesome from the ramparts of the fort.The Plaza Roma, Palacio del Gobernador and Manila Cathedral is almost a single complex. The Plaza Roma is the centre of Intramuros and has a memorial to King Charles of Spain. Milling crowds at the Plaza and the Cathedral foretold humongous crowds expected for the Grand Marian procession in the afternoon. The cathedral is dedicated to the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary, as the patroness of the country. It also serves as the seat of the Archbishop of Manila.
A short walk away is the Bahay Tsinoy which houses the Kaisa-Angelo King Heritage Center, a museum that documents the history, lives and contributions of ethnic Chinese in Philippine life and history. At the time of my tour it was closed to visitors due to renovation. However, there were a group celebrating a Christmas function within it.
The Manila Memorial is one that recalls the awful consequences of the war in 1945, which affected young and old alike.The San Augustin church is the oldest stone church in Philippines, having been commissioned in 1607. Dedicated as the Shrine of Our Lady of Consolation and Cincture the church was closed to visitors due to a high profile wedding that was to take place inside. I begged and weaved my way in for a few minutes of prayer and photos.
The Casa Manila has preserved relics of Spanish way of life in a museum, which has an entrance fee. I took refuge in a restaurant besides it for a feast of Sisig, a must try while in the Philippines.On the walk back from Intramuros I took a detour to admire the Gomburza monument dedicated to three secular priest and hero-martyrs that was moved in front of the National Museum from the Plaza Roma. When I got back to the accommodation I tried in vain to reach the Air Asia official to check on the misplaced baggage. There was no response and I knew any further efforts on a Sunday evening would be futile.In the evening my nephew, Alex, who has been in Philippines for a dozen years picked me up with his wife, Gael and three lively kids. He drove me around for a feel of a different Manila, a modern and developed one, full of malls, high rise apartments, hotels and restaurants. Being a Sunday evening the traffic was heavy. The Mall of Asia took my breath away and so did most of the other malls. Gael and Alex took me to Crisostama, a typical Filipino dining.While on a pint of Sam Miguel Light came the sauteed baby squid in olive oil with chilly and garlic. Soon followed sizzling button mushrooms in garlic and olive oil, the beef soup La Paz Bulalo with beef chunks, marrow and veggies, sticky rice, fried pork chunks, eggplant omelette and taro leaves with pork bits and thick coconut milk. Awesome, to say the least. Moreover, the cuisine is devoid of masala and is easy on the tummy.While at dinner I got an email from Air Asia informing me that the baggage had arrived Manila. Despite being told the day before that it would be delivered to my accommodation, the email asked me to collect it from the airport. Alex, being in the aviation business, promised to take me to the airport and fetch the luggage tomorrow afternoon. After dinner Alex drove me around to a few places that would suit retirees. The cost of living is such that a family of three could lead a very decent life inside of USD 2000. Alex promised to get me details of the retiree visa. If found feasible this would be a good place to see through the sunset years!
A PHILLIPPINE FAIRYTALE - An evening in Manila - 3 December 2022
Within a kilometer radius of Robinsons are a community of residences, government and business offices, academic and medical institutions, parks, famous landmarks, churches, hotels, and night spots. It is also within walking distance from the enchanting Manila Bay. Robinsons Place shopping complex is connected to the twin residential high-rise condominia, the Robinsons Place Residences and Adriatico Residences; the 18th floor of the latter complex is where I would be housed for five nights.Past the Robinsons Place is the Supreme Court of Philippines and Department of Justice. Supreme Court wields administrative power over the lower courts and its personnel. The University of Philippines and its Museum of Ideas are a few steps away, as are the buildings housing the National Bureau of Investigation and the WHO. Nearly a kilometer down the road is the historic Methodist Church facing the entrance to the Rizal Park North entrance.The forecourt of the Natural History Museum immediately after one enters the Park has many boulders of the Mayon Volcano, which is the most active volcano in Philippines. Extensive restoration of the Rizal Park has closed off most of the northern part. The massive statue of Lapu-lapu, the warrior who defeated Magellan and delayed the Spanish conquest of Philippines, can be seen from the entrance to the Luneta Park, which houses the Rizal monument.
Jose Rizal was put to death by the Spanish at the age of 35 at a site quite proximate to the monument that commemorated 100 years of the execution of the Filipino nationalist. The multifaceted intellectual sparked the revolution that brought to an end more than 400 years of Spanish dominion of Philippines. In front of the open air auditorium of the Park are many fountains and busts of native heroes. A lively food court operates within the Luneta Park. The Quirino grandstand stands at one end of the Rizal Park, at the mouth of Manila Bay. The grandstand has not been in service since its closure during the pandemic. The grandstand serves as a symbol of independence from American control of the country.
A PHILLIPPINE FAIRYTALE - Chennai to Manila - 2/3 December 2022
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