A Nordic Escapade - The Golden Circle, Iceland - Day 2 - 11 May 2025

The planned itinerary for the day was tour of the Golden Circle, which is one of the two most toured scenic routes in Iceland. It is a round-trip sightseeing tour that combines stunning landmarks and historically significant places. While the tour groups are normally taken to the Thingvellir National Park, Geysir, Gullfoss waterfall and Blue Lagoon. I extended it to include a few more, such as the volcanic crater Kerid and the historic Bishop’s See, Skalholt. At the end of the day, I tapped myself on the back in appreciation for including those in the itinerary, too.

After breakfast I took the route to Iceland's historical and geological treasure, the Thingvellir National Park, which is a place of immense scenic beauty. On the way, just short of the National Park entrance I entered a parking area where many vehicles had stopped for photo ops. I really didn't know what the significance of the place was, but it was a calm and serene meadow kind of place that overlooked a large waterbody. A few visitors in the past had piled round stones, one on top of the other, like you find in many pilgrimage places. They were either seven or nine in number. They are normally known as a cairn or rock pile. A cairn is a human-made pile of stones often used as a marker, memorial, or landmark.

There is no separate entrance fee to the National Park. However, a parking fee has to be paid based on the type of vehicle. I paid 1000 ISK at the POS near the Hadik Visitor Center. There were quite a few visitors at the time of my visit. The lady at the reception took her time and explained places to visit and the trails in the National Park in detail without hurrying any of the visitors.

The Thingvellir National Park and the Oxara River epitomize the history of Iceland and the Icelandic nation more than anything else. It is at Thingvellir, or the "Assembly Plains", that the Althing, the world's first parliament was established in 930 AD. The tradition continued till 1798. In its 850 plus years of history many major events that shaped the nation state of Iceland took place there and, thus, it is revered grounds to the Icelanders. Thingvellir is now a protected national shrine, which shall always remain the property of Icelandic nation as per law passed in 1928. It is at this historic location that, on the 17th of June 1944, Iceland proclaimed its independence from Denmark.

The landscape at Thingvellir is magical because it is within the amazing geographical setting of a rift valley with the North American and Eurasian continental plates on either side. Tectonic activity in Thingvellir left behind admirable gorges and fissures, of which Almannagja is the focal point of the national park. It is awe-inspiring to take the board walk and a hiking path that leads through the enormous cleft to the “law rock” and Oxara river, enveloped by stunning walls of basalt rocks.

The Thingvellir Church is another attraction in the National Park. With the adoption of Christianity in Norway, Thingvellir also got its church, courtesy the King of Norway in 1017. Several churches have graced the grounds over centuries.  Lake Thingvallvatn, the biggest natural lake in Iceland, and the Oxarafoss waterfall add to the scenic beauty of National Park.

Laugarvatn is a shallow lake located midway between Thingvellir, Gullfoss and Geysir, 100 km from Reykjavík. With hot springs on the lake floor it is warm and suitable for bathing all year round. The bank of the lake is home to a village, also called Laugarvatn, of over 300 inhabitants. The background of the Laugarvatnsfjall mountain adds to the charm and beauty of the place. The place looked peaceful and, to me, deathly silent and a bit disconcerting, when compared to the hustle and bustle of my wonderful country, India. In that hustle and bustle there is life, there is warmth and there is a vibrance that looks and feels chaotic from the outside. But, one needs to be inside to understand the method in the madness!

When I reached the Huakadalur geothermal area most of the parking slots were taken - I was lucky to have a slot vacated as I was cruising towards it. All the cafes and restaurants in the premises were I overflowing with customers; not surprisingly considering the population of vehicles in the vicinity. The Haukadalur geothermal area is an extremely popular halt on the Golden Circle circuit, because this is one of the few geyser fields on Earth where one can easily access and observe active geysers.

There are carefully constructed board walks, using different types of material, which visitors can take to walk around the famous Great Geysir, the geyser Strokkur, and various kinds of hot springs, steam vents, and sulfurous mud pots. While the Great Geysir barely spouts, the smaller geyser Strokkur reliably gushes its fountains of boiling water regularly. Naturally, the maximum number of visitors surround this phenomenon. Shouts of ecstasy and bewilderment accompany every gush of the hot water fountain, which sometimes shoots as high as 30 meters in the air.

On the way to the next attraction on the Golden Circle route, namely the Gullfoss waterfall, I came across the Bru Horse Farm where the Icelandic horse is bred. It is a breed developed in Iceland to withstand the harshness of the weather and ruggedness of the terrain. Though the horses are smaller, and may seem like ponies in comparison to other breeds, it is a robust breed with little or no infections or diseases. There is a law in Iceland that prevents foreign bred horses from being imported into the country and horses once exported from Iceland cannot be brought back. In the farm there was a wooden kiosk with a prominent placard which said that the horses must only be fed horse candy which is on sale in the kiosk. The Icelandic horse is still used for traditional sheepherding work as well as for leisure, showing, and racing.

During summer more than a couple of thousand visitors visit the dazzling Gullfoss waterfall every day. What makes the waterfall so attractive is its cascading shape and the enormous photo and vlogging opportunities it presents. It is for this reason that it is called the 'Golden Waterfall'. On an average, 100,000 liters of glacial water from River Hvíta plunge 100 feet into the Gullfossgljufur Canyon every second. An easy steel staircase from the parking lot takes you down for the first views of the waterfall. Even from that distance the awesomeness of the waterfall can be gauged.

A short and easy trail leads the visitor to the very edge of the waterfall. Of course, the chill sprays from waterfall, amply assisted by strong winds, will chill and almost completely drench the adventurous visitor. Without a raincoat it is impossible to be spared the copious sprays. Even though Gullfoss is open the whole year round, the trails to the lower viewing platforms are sometimes closed during winter due to icy and snowy conditions. I can assure you that the Gullfoss experience itself justifies a visit to the Land of Fire and Ice.

Skalholt is one of Iceland's most historical places and was the capital of Iceland for over 700 years. It was the scene of the most dramatic events which shaped the political, spiritual, and cultural life in Iceland. Skalholt is quite popular with tourists and many high end hotels and cafes operate during the summer. The rolling grassy meadows and hills present a scenic and serene ambience.

The present Skalholt Cathedral was built in 1963 and is the 10th cathedral on the very site, the first one was built in the year 1000 when Icelanders became a Christian nation. A volunteer was at hand inside the cathedral to explain the historical, spiritual and architectural importance of the church and the town. The architecture of the current Cathedral is stylish with a beautiful altarpiece, a mosaic of the risen Lord and spectacular glass-stained windows. The tomb of bishops, a museum of historical artifacts, and a mysterious underground tunnel is situated in the cellar of the church. The ruins at the side of the church tell the story of a glorious and important past of the village.

Less than 25 km from the Skalholt village is the impressive Kerid volcanic crater lake. It must surely rank as one of the most visually stunning geological wonders in Iceland. This vibrant greenish blue gem is a relatively newly formed carter, a mere 6500 years. There is an entrance fee to enjoy the spectacle.

Information at the entrance said that the caldera is approximately 55 m deep, 170 m wide, and 270 m across. The caldera is made up of a unique red volcanic rock. Adventurous visitors to hike down one of the crater's sloping walls to admire the stunning aquamarine lake from up close. I preferred to take in the fantastic views walking around the caldera. From different viewing locations the crater gives off its vivid colors that are due to the minerals in the soil of the shallow lake.

Once I was sated by the sights of the amazing volcanic crater lake, I took the road to the town of Selfoss. I crossed the Olfussa River across the Olfussa bridge and parked in the New Old Town, a relatively new development in Selfoss, which is the largest residential conglomeration in South Iceland, with a population of 10,000 inhabitants.

In the summer of 2021, the new pedestrianised town center was opened which consists of reconstructions of historical buildings from all across the country. It includes a new town square, shops, restaurants and a food hall. The experiment was a huge success, and it has been decided to expand the project. Brightly painted buildings, with its history prominently displayed, has taken vibrance and gaiety to another level in the town.

The last stop on the Golden Circle tour was the overhyped Blue Lagoon. The stink that envelopes you as you approach the parking lot of the spa resort is overpowering and at times unbearable. The milky blue, mineral rich waters are said to be rejuvenating with healing properties. The spa is supplied water from the nearby Svartsengi geothermal power station. It is not a natural hot spring experience. Visitors can soak in the lagoon, apply silica mud masks, and enjoy complimentary drinks for what I considered a princely sum that could be spent on something more useful.

I drove back to Reykjavik in the hope that I could make a quick tour of some of the sights I had missed last evening. As luck would have it, I found parking near the Lutheran Free Church and the National Gallery of Iceland. Naturally, at that hour, both were not open to public. I took a short walk along Lake Tjornin to the City Hall past quaint buildings and the rather interesting Monument of the Unknown Bureaucract. A few people were feeding the swans and ducks in the Lake, while a few others used the winding roads around the lake to bicycle.

The Cathedral of Christ the King is the only catholic cathedral in Iceland. I reached there hoping that I could get some time for prayer in the church but was not in luck. The Althingi is the Icelandic Parliament House built in 1881. The garden of the Parliament House is Iceland's oldest public garden dating back to 1893–95.

The development of Iceland from the time of the settlers over millennia can be appreciated in the underground settlement exhibition in Aoalstreati 10-16. The sights in Reykjavik, whatever could be covered in the short time I had there, was thus done. After resting the night, I will start exploration of the Iceland Ring Road.