A Nordic Escapade - The Golden Circle, Iceland - Day 2 - 11 May 2025

The planned itinerary for the day was tour of the Golden Circle, which is one of the two most toured scenic routes in Iceland. It is a round-trip sightseeing tour that combines stunning landmarks and historically significant places. While the tour groups are normally taken to the Thingvellir National Park, Geysir, Gullfoss waterfall and Blue Lagoon. I extended it to include a few more, such as the volcanic crater Kerid and the historic Bishop’s See, Skalholt. At the end of the day, I tapped myself on the back in appreciation for including those in the itinerary, too.

After breakfast I took the route to Iceland's historical and geological treasure, the Thingvellir National Park, which is a place of immense scenic beauty. On the way, just short of the National Park entrance I entered a parking area where many vehicles had stopped for photo ops. I really didn't know what the significance of the place was, but it was a calm and serene meadow kind of place that overlooked a large waterbody. A few visitors in the past had piled round stones, one on top of the other, like you find in many pilgrimage places. They were either seven or nine in number. They are normally known as a cairn or rock pile. A cairn is a human-made pile of stones often used as a marker, memorial, or landmark.

There is no separate entrance fee to the National Park. However, a parking fee has to be paid based on the type of vehicle. I paid 1000 ISK at the POS near the Hadik Visitor Center. There were quite a few visitors at the time of my visit. The lady at the reception took her time and explained places to visit and the trails in the National Park in detail without hurrying any of the visitors.

The Thingvellir National Park and the Oxara River epitomize the history of Iceland and the Icelandic nation more than anything else. It is at Thingvellir, or the "Assembly Plains", that the Althing, the world's first parliament was established in 930 AD. The tradition continued till 1798. In its 850 plus years of history many major events that shaped the nation state of Iceland took place there and, thus, it is revered grounds to the Icelanders. Thingvellir is now a protected national shrine, which shall always remain the property of Icelandic nation as per law passed in 1928. It is at this historic location that, on the 17th of June 1944, Iceland proclaimed its independence from Denmark.

The landscape at Thingvellir is magical because it is within the amazing geographical setting of a rift valley with the North American and Eurasian continental plates on either side. Tectonic activity in Thingvellir left behind admirable gorges and fissures, of which Almannagja is the focal point of the national park. It is awe-inspiring to take the board walk and a hiking path that leads through the enormous cleft to the “law rock” and Oxara river, enveloped by stunning walls of basalt rocks.

The Thingvellir Church is another attraction in the National Park. With the adoption of Christianity in Norway, Thingvellir also got its church, courtesy the King of Norway in 1017. Several churches have graced the grounds over centuries.  Lake Thingvallvatn, the biggest natural lake in Iceland, and the Oxarafoss waterfall add to the scenic beauty of National Park.

Laugarvatn is a shallow lake located midway between Thingvellir, Gullfoss and Geysir, 100 km from Reykjavík. With hot springs on the lake floor it is warm and suitable for bathing all year round. The bank of the lake is home to a village, also called Laugarvatn, of over 300 inhabitants. The background of the Laugarvatnsfjall mountain adds to the charm and beauty of the place. The place looked peaceful and, to me, deathly silent and a bit disconcerting, when compared to the hustle and bustle of my wonderful country, India. In that hustle and bustle there is life, there is warmth and there is a vibrance that looks and feels chaotic from the outside. But, one needs to be inside to understand the method in the madness!

When I reached the Huakadalur geothermal area most of the parking slots were taken - I was lucky to have a slot vacated as I was cruising towards it. All the cafes and restaurants in the premises were I overflowing with customers; not surprisingly considering the population of vehicles in the vicinity. The Haukadalur geothermal area is an extremely popular halt on the Golden Circle circuit, because this is one of the few geyser fields on Earth where one can easily access and observe active geysers.

There are carefully constructed board walks, using different types of material, which visitors can take to walk around the famous Great Geysir, the geyser Strokkur, and various kinds of hot springs, steam vents, and sulfurous mud pots. While the Great Geysir barely spouts, the smaller geyser Strokkur reliably gushes its fountains of boiling water regularly. Naturally, the maximum number of visitors surround this phenomenon. Shouts of ecstasy and bewilderment accompany every gush of the hot water fountain, which sometimes shoots as high as 30 meters in the air.

On the way to the next attraction on the Golden Circle route, namely the Gullfoss waterfall, I came across the Bru Horse Farm where the Icelandic horse is bred. It is a breed developed in Iceland to withstand the harshness of the weather and ruggedness of the terrain. Though the horses are smaller, and may seem like ponies in comparison to other breeds, it is a robust breed with little or no infections or diseases. There is a law in Iceland that prevents foreign bred horses from being imported into the country and horses once exported from Iceland cannot be brought back. In the farm there was a wooden kiosk with a prominent placard which said that the horses must only be fed horse candy which is on sale in the kiosk. The Icelandic horse is still used for traditional sheepherding work as well as for leisure, showing, and racing.

During summer more than a couple of thousand visitors visit the dazzling Gullfoss waterfall every day. What makes the waterfall so attractive is its cascading shape and the enormous photo and vlogging opportunities it presents. It is for this reason that it is called the 'Golden Waterfall'. On an average, 100,000 liters of glacial water from River Hvíta plunge 100 feet into the Gullfossgljufur Canyon every second. An easy steel staircase from the parking lot takes you down for the first views of the waterfall. Even from that distance the awesomeness of the waterfall can be gauged.

A short and easy trail leads the visitor to the very edge of the waterfall. Of course, the chill sprays from waterfall, amply assisted by strong winds, will chill and almost completely drench the adventurous visitor. Without a raincoat it is impossible to be spared the copious sprays. Even though Gullfoss is open the whole year round, the trails to the lower viewing platforms are sometimes closed during winter due to icy and snowy conditions. I can assure you that the Gullfoss experience itself justifies a visit to the Land of Fire and Ice.

Skalholt is one of Iceland's most historical places and was the capital of Iceland for over 700 years. It was the scene of the most dramatic events which shaped the political, spiritual, and cultural life in Iceland. Skalholt is quite popular with tourists and many high end hotels and cafes operate during the summer. The rolling grassy meadows and hills present a scenic and serene ambience.

The present Skalholt Cathedral was built in 1963 and is the 10th cathedral on the very site, the first one was built in the year 1000 when Icelanders became a Christian nation. A volunteer was at hand inside the cathedral to explain the historical, spiritual and architectural importance of the church and the town. The architecture of the current Cathedral is stylish with a beautiful altarpiece, a mosaic of the risen Lord and spectacular glass-stained windows. The tomb of bishops, a museum of historical artifacts, and a mysterious underground tunnel is situated in the cellar of the church. The ruins at the side of the church tell the story of a glorious and important past of the village.

Less than 25 km from the Skalholt village is the impressive Kerid volcanic crater lake. It must surely rank as one of the most visually stunning geological wonders in Iceland. This vibrant greenish blue gem is a relatively newly formed carter, a mere 6500 years. There is an entrance fee to enjoy the spectacle.

Information at the entrance said that the caldera is approximately 55 m deep, 170 m wide, and 270 m across. The caldera is made up of a unique red volcanic rock. Adventurous visitors to hike down one of the crater's sloping walls to admire the stunning aquamarine lake from up close. I preferred to take in the fantastic views walking around the caldera. From different viewing locations the crater gives off its vivid colors that are due to the minerals in the soil of the shallow lake.

Once I was sated by the sights of the amazing volcanic crater lake, I took the road to the town of Selfoss. I crossed the Olfussa River across the Olfussa bridge and parked in the New Old Town, a relatively new development in Selfoss, which is the largest residential conglomeration in South Iceland, with a population of 10,000 inhabitants.

In the summer of 2021, the new pedestrianised town center was opened which consists of reconstructions of historical buildings from all across the country. It includes a new town square, shops, restaurants and a food hall. The experiment was a huge success, and it has been decided to expand the project. Brightly painted buildings, with its history prominently displayed, has taken vibrance and gaiety to another level in the town.

The last stop on the Golden Circle tour was the overhyped Blue Lagoon. The stink that envelopes you as you approach the parking lot of the spa resort is overpowering and at times unbearable. The milky blue, mineral rich waters are said to be rejuvenating with healing properties. The spa is supplied water from the nearby Svartsengi geothermal power station. It is not a natural hot spring experience. Visitors can soak in the lagoon, apply silica mud masks, and enjoy complimentary drinks for what I considered a princely sum that could be spent on something more useful.

I drove back to Reykjavik in the hope that I could make a quick tour of some of the sights I had missed last evening. As luck would have it, I found parking near the Lutheran Free Church and the National Gallery of Iceland. Naturally, at that hour, both were not open to public. I took a short walk along Lake Tjornin to the City Hall past quaint buildings and the rather interesting Monument of the Unknown Bureaucract. A few people were feeding the swans and ducks in the Lake, while a few others used the winding roads around the lake to bicycle.

The Cathedral of Christ the King is the only catholic cathedral in Iceland. I reached there hoping that I could get some time for prayer in the church but was not in luck. The Althingi is the Icelandic Parliament House built in 1881. The garden of the Parliament House is Iceland's oldest public garden dating back to 1893–95.

The development of Iceland from the time of the settlers over millennia can be appreciated in the underground settlement exhibition in Aoalstreati 10-16. The sights in Reykjavik, whatever could be covered in the short time I had there, was thus done. After resting the night, I will start exploration of the Iceland Ring Road.

A Nordic Escapade - Reykjavik, Iceland - Day 1 - 10 May 2025

Landed on time in the Frankfurt International Airport this morning after nearly nine hours of flying from the Mumbai International Airport. Frankfurt Airport is the Germany's largest international airport, capable of handling 65 million passengers annually in its two terminals spread over 2300 hectares. Frankfurt is the fifth largest German city and is the hub for Lufthansa, which has its corporate headquarters in Cologne.

The boarding in Frankfurt was delayed, as the captain explained after boarding was completed, due to cleaning of the incoming aircraft, which was from Cairo. He mentioned that the cleaning staff took extra time to restore order clearing up the litter of blankets and pillows and whatever else were strewn about. I may be wrong, but I certainly felt an explicit dose of sarcasm and a tinge of "what else can be expected of people from these parts of the world"! He, however, assured the passengers that he would catch up the lost time due to favourable tail winds on the route to Reykjavik. We suffered another ten minutes delay before take-off as a drone was sighted in the airport. After that matter was resolved we took off from Frankfurt and landed 10 minutes late at Reykjavik, for which, just before landing, the Captain apologized.

The Rhine and the Main rivers looked awesome at the time of takeoff from Frankfurt. Over the North Sea I saw a large number of windmills, obviously UK's renewable energy resource. Massive mountainous territory, almost completely snow-laden came into sight when the plane crossed into Iceland. Closer to Reykjavik the landscape changed to volcanic rocks, sparse greenery and signs of rain.

Before boarding the flight from Frankfurt I had to complete immigration formalities, which had perplexed me. When I landed in Reykjavik I understood why that was so. There is no immigration facility in Reykjavik, as Iceland is part of the Schengen. After collecting baggage I went to a store at the Arrivals and paid for a Siminn prepaid Simcard. When I asked the lady at the counter if she would activate the sim for me she looked at me incredulously and said, matter of factly, "You put the sim in and you can talk." I did that and it happened exactly like that. I called the Blue car rental to pick up the car. I took the shuttle bus from the arrivals to the car rental office, just a few minutes away.

The formalities to take the car was not much as I had prepaid the rental. At the time of taking the car, I also paid for the on-road service. The prepaid forex card of HDFC had come in handy. I had booked a Toyota Tygo, but was given a Yaris that had done over 80,000 km. The counter clerk told me the fuel type to be used and that I should download the 'Parka' App to find and pay for parking and camping all over Iceland. Before leaving the counter, she handed me a tracker to be kept in the car so that they would have real-time access to my location.

I called up the accommodation I had booked in Reykjavik. It was a self-check-in facility in the heart of Reykjavik. I could not, despite going around for more than an hour, find any free parking slots. It was getting colder too and my frustrations were brimming over. I drove to the Hallgrimskrikja church and parked for a while to figure out what I could do.

Hallgrimskrikja, the Church of Hallgrimur, is a Lutheran Church in the capital city. Since it's consecration in 1986 the 244 ft tall curved spired church with side wings has turned into the national identity of Iceland. It is the tallest structure in thewhole country and is named after the 17th century Icelandic poet and cleric Hallgrimur Peturssun. The organ like structure took 41 years to build. My mind went back to the columnar basalt formations called "Symphony of Stones" I had visited from Yerevan, Armenia. However, most disappointing was the fact that I could not gain admittance into the church proper because of some private function that was underway.

Right at the entrance to the Hallgrimskrikja church is the statue of Leif Erikson, the pioneer who is credited with having discovered Iceland. The Norse explorer is said to have been the first European to have set foot in Continental America, a millennium before Christopher Columbus. The church and the tower were closed. I decided to use Parka App, park in the church carpark and walk around the city center of Reykjavik. After adding layers to my travel clothes, I charted a walking plan for the next two hours.

Running through the historic center of Reykjavik, Laugavegur is one of the oldest streets in the Reykjavik and is its main shopping artery. The name of the street translates to "wash road" as, in the past, the road led to hot springs where local women frequented to do their laundry. It was built up in 1885, along with the development of the capital city itself and then on became the most beautiful street in Reykjavik. The long street is lined with picturesque Icelandic-style buildings. It is a pedestrianized street and crosses through many of the historic parts of the city, making it one of the best places to stay in Reykjavik. The budget accommodation I had booked for myself was just a hop, step and jump to the lively and colorful street.

The Harpa concert and convention center was commissioned in May 2011 and since then has become a must visit place for tourists. Entrance is free and the glass building is reminiscent of the basalt stone feature of Iceland. Harpa houses the Iceland Symphony Orchestra and the offices of The Icelandic Opera. In the water next to Harpa is located the sculpture The Musician (1970) by the Icelandic sculptor Olof Palsdottir. The statue is of a cellist playing, and is modelled on the Danish cellist Erling Blondal Bengtsson, who played constantly for Olof as he sat for her.

The old Reykjavik harbour is the heart of Reykjavík and was the catalyst to its formation. The city grew up around the harbour and in the early 20th century it became one of the centres of the Icelandic trawling industry. One of the locomotives that hauled wagons bringing stones to build the old harbour is on display in the waterfront. The harbour area has since been transformed but remains one of the most important harbours in Iceland. In recent years tourism and whale watching have gradually replaced fishing vessels while shops and restaurants have occupied warehouses.

In about two hours I returned to the carpark. The credit card I had registered for the Parka payments declined the parking fee as the App is not registered to recurring payments as per RBI guidelines. I left the carpark without paying and got to my accommodation. Fortunately, I found a parking slot a few minutes away from it. Parking slots are all free from 9 pm to 9 am every day. Even at this parking slot I could not make the payment. I was flustered, not knowing how to manage the situation. I added the debit card to the Parka App and that too got declined. Finally the HDFC prepaid card accepted the payment and I was relieved. The fines for traffic violations are extremely high in Iceland. I was warned about it at the time of taking possession for the car. She told me to ensure that I stuck to the speed limits, in particular and that I should never use parking slots reserved for the disabled.

Knowing how costly restaurant food is in Iceland I was carrying Maggi and Pasta to cook in the accommodation, as most of them had a small pantry. After a wash and rearrangement of the bags I had dinner and sauntered out for a walk. The weather was fine in that it wasn't raining, and the cold was bearable, thanks to the layered clothing. 

The restaurants, bars and cafes were full, but very few were noisy. I bought milk, bananas and strawberries for the morning repast with muesli, which I had carried from India. On the way back to the accommodation from the store, around 10 pm, young friends were tottering to their owns homes and residences, drunk to the gills and smelling of vicious concoctions. They had let down their hair for the weekend, some could barely walk. By the time I was ready for bed, by 11.30 pm, it was still not dark! 

A Nordic Escapade - The Land Of Fire And Ice, Iceland - An Introduction

Iceland is known as the "Land of Fire and Ice" because of its dramatic landscapes and diverse geographical features. On the one hand, it is a volcanic hotspot with lava fields, black sand beaches and active volcanoes, while on the other, glaciers and vast icy landscape offer contrasting geographical visual and experiential delights. It has something for the young, the old, the intrepid adventurer and the staid traveler.

Iceland is one of the five sovereign Nordic Nations, with the others being Norway, Denmark, Sweden and Finland. 'Nordic' is ancient Scandinavian for 'the Northern Lands'. The Nordic geography extends beyond and includes the Scandinavian peninsula of Sweden, Norway and Denmark. Iceland was inhabited in the 9th century AD by Norwegian sailors and Gaelic slaves. The territory was ceded to Denmark in the early 19th century. Iceland gained independence on 17 June 1944.

The flag of Iceland features a blue field with a red Nordic cross outlined in white. The design, which symbolizes Iceland's landscape, was officially adopted when Iceland became a republic in June 1944. The population of the country is less than 4 million in the country with 36 percent living in the highly urbanised capital city of the island nation, Reykjavik. The per capita GDP at PPP is about $70,000, with a balanced distribution of wealth. The Icelandic economy has diversified in the 21st century from the traditional economic activities of fishing and farming to manufacturing, finance and biotechnology.

73 percent of the population profess Christianity as their religion and 25 per cent do not identify themselves with any religion, which is a feature of the Nordic region. The currency is Icelandic krona (ISK); 1 INR is 1.53 ISK, and 1 USD is 129 ISK. On average, Iceland receives around 1.1 million visitors annually, which is more than three times the native population.

The country has no standing army but has a limited coast guard contingent. The official language of the country is Icelandic. Iceland is on a rift between tectonic plates, and its geologic activity includes geysers and frequent volcanic eruptions. About 85 percent of the total primary energy supply in Iceland is derived from domestically produced renewable energy sources. Use of abundant hydroelectric and geothermal power has made Iceland the world's largest electricity producer per capita. The tourism sector is expanding, especially in ecotourism and whale-watching.

Iceland has a high level of car ownership per capita, with a car for every 1.5 inhabitants; it is the main form of transport. Iceland has 13,034 km of administered roads, of which 4,617 km are paved. The road speed limits are 30 and 50 kph in towns, 80 kmh on gravel country roads and 90 kmph on hard-surfaced roads. A great number of interior roads remain unpaved, mostly little-used rural roads. Therefore, while renting a car in Iceland it is essential to ensure that the windshield, windows, tyres and sand-ash protection insurance is taken. I did exactly that while reserving an automatic Toyota Aygo for 9 days from Reykjavik Cars.

The Ring Road in Iceland circles the entire country. As a major trunk route, it is considered to be the most important piece of transport infrastructure in Iceland as it connects the majority of towns together in the most densely populated areas of the country. Economically, it carries a large proportion of goods traffic as well as tourist traffic. The total length of the road is 1,322 kilometers, making it the longest ring road in Europe. The road was completed in 1974, coinciding with the 1,100th anniversary of the country's settlement.

Entry for holders of ordinary Indian passport is regulated by the Schengen Visa regime. As I am based in Gandhidham for professional reasons, I could avail of the VFS service in Ahmedabad. Getting an appointment was not difficult for Iceland, while some others like Portugal did not have slots for more than two months later. I timed the submission after 2024 Christmas and the following New Year holidays. I completed the online registration and paid sufficient attention to the checklist to ensure that the submission would be in order. I was done and dusted with the visa application submission within 30 minutes. Enroute to Gandhidham I even got a message that the application had been conveyed to Consulate in Delhi for further necessary action. I was totally unprepared for the Visa approval within 72 hours of submission of the application. The visa stamped passport reached me in Gandhidham in five days flat. I was completely floored, to say the least.