In preparation for the tour of Maldives, I had filled out online the mandatory Maldives immigration requirement of Traveler Declaration. The requirement was introduced during the Covid crisis and continues to date. It is a simple form that can be completed in two minutes. The flights from Ahmedabad and Mumbai were both on time; in fact, the one from Ahmedabad took off almost a half hour ahead of the scheduled 4 am, which gave me more time in the Mumbai International Airport. My baggage was booked through to Male, while I completed the immigration formalities in Mumbai.
I was somewhat upset that I could not waggle a window seat at the Ahmedabad Indigo booking counter. I wanted to get some got photos and videos of the archipelago. I don't know if it was a case of sour grapes; it certainly looked cloudy, and a haze hung low as the flight approached Maldives!
The Velana International Airport is a no-frills airport. The country has strict rules that prohibit the import of alcohol and alcohol-based liquids. The immigration process was slow, but they had enough counters to deal with the entire planeload. I was asked about my accommodation in Maldives and return ticket at the immigration desk. It was good to see bags arranged in an orderly manner on the baggage carousel. They were undoubtedly scanned for the banned items.
As soon as I exited the airport, I found a large expanse of water - the airport, ferry terminal and seaplane terminals are one complex. The water body I was seeing was the Indian Ocean. My first 'task' was to exchange currency. It is the norm that one gets less than expected rates at the airport currency exchange counters. The online exchange rate showed 15.6 MVR to a USD and the official counter showed 15. As I was caught in two minds I was approached by a stout local who told me that he could get me 16.5 MVR to a USD. He took me to a kiosk where, without even seeing my passport he exchanged the USD at the said rate. I could not believe my eyes and ears.
As I got out of the airport a ferry was loading to Male. The ferry to Male from and to the airport operates every 10-15 minutes, except on Fridays, and the transit is about 10 minutes. The fare is just MVR 15, under 1 USD. Prior to boarding the ferry, I tried calling the hotel from a free telephone at the airport. There was no response from hotel and that got me concerned a bit. Instead of buying a local Sim card that would cost me 40 USD I got an international roaming plan from Jio for Rs. 1102. It was a complete rip off. Before the 10-minute ferry reached the Male ferry terminal I got the message that 100% of the roaming charge had been exhausted!
It was hot and humid, and I was sweating profusely by the time I reached The Park House, where I had booked my stay. Lugging the bag and backpack almost a km and half, through busy narrow streets and roads, took a lot out of me. The location of the hotel was indeed awesome, but the hotel by itself was just alright, for a solo traveler like me. The saving grace was the staff, who were extremely helpful and eager to attend to their customers.
My room was on the third floor, and I stood at the base of the stairs wondering how I was going to take my bags all the way up. Murthy, the effervescent staff, put my concerns to rest. He carried both my bags and showed me into my room. After settling the bags and soothing my weary muscles a bit I sought directions from Murthy to get to a store to buy a Sim card. It was about 500 meters away from the hotel, past the Sultan Park.
When I reached the store, the three girls in there, told that the services would begin after lunch at 4 pm. My watch told me that there were four more minutes to go for the counters to open. In the meanwhile, they graciously offered me a seat to wait for the rest of the time. It cost me 40 USD/616 USD to buy the Dhiragoo Sim card. It didn't take much time to activate the Sim, and I was then set to explore the island. I had quite a bit on my list for the rest of the day in the next two hours. That meant some brisk walking. I started in right earnest despite the humidity.
I started at the Sultan Park, located just a few hundred meters from the hotel. It is a famous public park in Maldives and is also known as Rasrani Bageecha. It was formed after repurposing the palace's royal gardens built in the 16th century. Sultan Park is known for its lush greenery and quiet surroundings which makes it ideal for picnics and walking.
Despite being located bang in the center of the city, it manages to create a peaceful and calming atmosphere. The serenity is such that the lilting music of birds from atop the tree branches can be enjoyed without any corruption. The giant iron gate at the entrance of the park is the only piece that takes one back to the palace's former glory.
I walked through the Sultan Park to the Masjid al-Sultan Muhammad and the Islamic Center. Islam being the state religion of the Maldives, the Islamic Center in Male is one of the country's most famous and beautiful marvels of architecture. Situated close to the Hulhule ferry point and neighboring the Republic Square, the grand building is the perfect example of Islamic architecture.
The colossal structure is one of the most visited landmarks in the country, and its remarkable presence dominates the city's skyline, thanks to its massive golden dome and a graceful 41 m tall minaret as its companion. The Islamic Center has several conference halls and an Islamic library. The centre also houses numerous offices, most importantly the Ministry of Islamic Affairs. It is believed that up to 5,000 people can be welcomed in the premises at once. The Islamic Centre, opened on 11 November 1984, was built with the financial assistance of Islamic countries, including Saudi Arabia, Brunei, Pakistan, Malaysia, and the United Arab Emirates.
The Centre's Grand Friday Mosque, Masjid al-Sultan Muhammad Thakurufaanu al-Auzam, was the largest mosque in the Maldives, until the opening of the King Salman Mosque in 2022, that accommodates 10,000 worshippers. Non-Muslims are not permitted to enter the mosque. However, even from the outside one can admire the mosque's exquisite wooden carvings and Arabic calligraphy that decorate the interior walls.
A short walk from the Grand Friday Mosque is the Republic Square. The Square is also known as "Jumhooree Maidhaan,". It is a prominent public square located in the heart of Male. It is one of the main landmarks of the city and a central gathering place for locals and tourists alike. The square is known for its open space, beautiful greenery, waterfront and views of the surrounding government buildings and monuments.
It is often used for public events, celebrations, and national holidays. Notably, the square is home to the "Victory Day" memorial, commemorating the Maldives' victory over a mercenary invasion in 1988. Republic Square provides a calm, scenic spot for relaxation, making it a popular destination for visitors looking to experience the heart of Male’s political and cultural life.
Perched on a flagpole high above the ground flies the Maldivian flag, the largest such flag in the nation. Republic Square was dedicated in 1989 and sits at the foot of the country's Army and Police headquarters. A walk through the square leads to the Presidential Jetty jutting proudly out into the beautiful Male harbor.
I walked to the Presidential jetty and then took the waterfront road to the Fish Market. It is one of the tourist attractions for those who visit spots in Male. The shops in the fish market are stocked with a wide variety of products. Catch from different parts of the country are brought here and laid out on tiled platforms. The predominant catch is Tuna. The pace of activities peaks during midafternoon when the catch comes in. The fish market is kept neat and clean, and I saw it being cleaned regularly. Much unlike the ones in India, the market does not emit any foul smells.
Close to the fish market is the one for fruits and vegetables. It too was near and clean. The fruits and vegetables looked absolutely fresh and are brought in dhonis, along with dried fish, from various atolls for sale in Male. Male hosts more than 80 percent of the population of the country and hence, is the largest market in the country.
I walked along the fishing boat harbor and chanced upon the stingray watching site. There were a few foreigners and locals admiring the large schools of stingrays of varying sizes going about their business of feeding on the pieces of fish thrown by anglers. The experience is not just about watching; it's about connecting with nature and appreciating the beauty of marine ecosystems.
Those who book snorkeling trips can get up, close and personal with the stingrays. The waters are typically calm and clear, providing an excellent environment. The best time to visit is during the early morning or late afternoon when the sunlight dances on the water, enhancing the vibrant colors of the stingrays. Additionally, the surrounding scenery, characterized by lush palm trees and crystalline waters, creates a perfect backdrop for unforgettable photographs.
I walked back towards the central part of the city and came to the Hukuru Miskiy - the Old Friday Mosque. Hukuru Miskiy, built in 1658, and the minaret adjacent to the mosque built in 1675, are the oldest built structures in Male today. In addition to being the most revered center of worship for many centuries, Hukuru Miskiy is of great cultural and historical significance to the Maldives and stands witness to the skills of Maldivian craftsmen of those times.
Hukuru Miskiy was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2008 for its unique architecture, its unparalleled historic tradition and the stone structure technique of its stone structure. As with the other mosque in Male I could not gain admittance into this one either. There are large tombs and numerous smaller graves with tombstones within the complex. The tombstones with rounded tops mark the graves of women and the ones with the pointed tops mark the graves of men. Gilded inscriptions on the tombstones indicate that the grave belongs to royalty.
Next was the Muliaage Palace, the Presidential Palace, which is also right in the historic centre of the city. This Palace was built on the site of the ancestral residence of Maldivian dynastic rulers since the 18th century. It was completed in 1919 for the then heir to the throne who lived there from 1920 to 1934. The Ceylonese style bungalows was a craze of the era.
The King Salman Mosque is a Sunni Mosque and the six-storied mosque building is flanked by five minarets, representing the five pillars of Islam. The building does not have a traditional dome. Instead, the dome-like structure is designed to resemble a Bedouin desert tent in the traditional Maldivian roof structure style. The blue tent like dome is a sight to behold. It is the largest mosques in the entire Indian Ocean with facilities for 10000 worshippers at a time. It is yet to be officially inaugurated, though unofficially worship began in 2022.
Past the King Salman Mosque is one of the artificial beaches of Male. One can get lovely views of the Ocean and the Sinamale Friendship Bridge that spans Male and Hulhule. The creation of artificial white sandy beaches is a recent attraction of Male. The artificial beaches have gained popularity due to the numerous entertainment options including water sports, carnivals and parades and live music shows that happen here time and again. It is an ideal place for both young and old to enjoy.
This man-made beach is the perfect creation to enjoy the exciting blue waters during summer. Local vendors offer mouthwatering street food too. I had a couple of spicy chicken sausages and made my way back to the hotel, taking a tour of the busy Majeedhee Magu. Majeedhee Magu, is the most famous street market in the Male, with shops providing everything from cosmetics, handlooms, and jewelry to electronic items. Within the cluster of local crafts and Islamic perfumes and textile.
It had a been a packed day, starting from Ahmedabad and ending in Male. The hotel tariff had the dinner option built into it. After a huge meal of mixed fried rice, fries and orange juice I sank into the comfortable bed for a well-earned night's rest.
