A TURKISH DELIGHT - DAY 20 – 29 NOVEMBER 2021 – Istanbul to Chennai

The previous evening we had decided to leave early for the airport as the hotel started breakfast service at 7 am. The bags were packed and repacked to ensure that each piece was within the airline permitted limits. The Raki aided sleep had been peaceful and restful. I couldn't have much of breakfast, possibly because such a wonderful driving tour had come to an end. I filled a crunchy bun with butter and sour cherry jam. A couple of sausages and a small piece of omelette are all I could manage.

After breakfast I settled the hotel charge in a mix of Euro and TL. The stay had been comfortable and the location of the hotel was A1. The hotel did not have a car park of its own. It had an arrangement with a public car park for 45 TL a day. The hotel assistant fetched me the car and helped load all the baggage in the car. We left the hotel by 8 am and it was quite complicated getting out of Taksim area. Despite the guidance from Google Maps I missed a turn and had to go around another time. Even though I recovered the route, at the narrow portion of a street lane I was side swapped by a vehicle. That did not cause much of a problem because I braked hard to limit my damage. Even then I felt bad because I had driven all over Turkey for 14 days and 3000 plus km and this had to happen now. However, the slight damage had been to the right side mirror. There was heavy wind and traffic even at that time. Once I hit the highway the pressure eased and the spacing between cars improved. The 45 km drive to the rent-a-car drop off was covered in about the same time. As I drove in to the drop off point a person from Cizgi waved me to a parking slot. We took the baggage out when he went around and inspected the car. I had taken full cover with zero excess and hence only the toll charges of 265 TL was payable while handing over the car. We had got through every toll without payments as the TAG had been active. The Dacia Sandera Stepway had been an extremely reliable companion during the 14th edition of Record Drive.

Once the car was handed over we took the elevator to the departure lounge. We were mighty early for even the check-in, forget the flight. We cleared security, non-intrusive and quick, and reached the check-in. The early check-in counter opened by 9.30 am and we were the first ones to get the boarding passes. A cup of coffee and croissant later we sauntered through the Duty Free and picked up a premium bottle of Yeni Raki, the traditional Turkish drink of grapes and anise. On this trip to Turkey we were able to experience both the airports of Istanbul, the Sabiha Goecken on arrival and now the IST on departure. While the SAW was very basic the IST cannot even compare to either Mumbai or Delhi international airports. However, there is a lot of publicity regarding the many international accolades and awards won by them and they are touted as the world's best airports. Certainly not they are, even if you stretch your imagination the most you can. They are small too in comparison to hub airports in other parts of Europe and the Middle East.

The flight was to be at 1.35 pm and the gate was announced shortly after noon. There was no movement at the boarding counters at the gate even after 1 am. When I voiced my concern to the gate clerk that I have a sharp connection from Doha to Chennai, he assured me that the connection would be maintained. Finally, boarding was completed by 2 pm. The B777-300 ER aircraft was less than even half full. Immediately after the aerobridge pulled out and the aircraft was pulled out from the dock heavy, gusty winds and driving rain put on hold the taxiing. We sat in the flight for 80 minutes waiting for the weather to improve. The helpful airhostess plied us with fruit juices, rice crackers and hazelnut wafer biscuits. She was apologetic about not being able to serve alcohol or food until take off. The delay meant that, in all probability, my connection from Doha to Chennai would be missed. What awaited me in Doha then was moot!

The flight took off after the storm had blown over about a 100 minutes behind schedule. What was announced as a four and half hour flight was completed in slightly over three hours. We were at the deplaning point at 7.10 pm and I was hopeful that the connection would be met. Horrifyingly there was no Qatar Airways staff either at the deplaning point or at the Transfer point to assist. All of us who had missed the flight had to more or less fend for ourselves and get to the transfer desk. When asked why there was no announcement or placards for those who had missed the flight, there were only shrugs. Extremely poor service and recovery strategy by the Qatar Airways staff. Shocking because it is touted as one of the world's best. At the transfer desk I was given the option of either taking a direct flight the next day or hop via Delhi to Chennai on Air India. I took a commitment from the staff that the luggage allowance would not be reduced from Delhi because it is a domestic flight. Similarly, it was also confirmed that Duty Free purchases, including liquor would be permitted as cabin baggage. As long as the bottle is in a sealed cover, there would be no issues, it was confirmed. The Delhi flight was about two hours away and that was alright. In the meanwhile Hetal had proceeded to her gate for the flight onwards to Mumbai.

From the Transfer Desk I went through security and onwards to the designated gate. At the gate we were told that the flight would be an hour late! That gave me a lot of time and I was generally loitering around, with no specific purpose in mind other than to kill time. That is when I realised that I did not have my hand bag with me! Panic and more panic. I tried to remember where I could have left it. I darted to a transfer security area as well as the Transfer Desk it served and was told that they did not have the missed bag. Panic hardened. I went to the lost and found section and they too did not have it. Then I met an airport staff who told me that I may have gone to the wrong security area and directed me to the Transfer Security in another area. By this time I was perspiring and truly in total panic as my wallet, old passports, the second mobile phone, other documents and the Duty Free purchases were all in it. I went to the security supervisor and told him my predicament. He asked what colour and make the bag is. He had the Aristocrat stroller bag and asked me to tell him what it contained. He checked my current passport with the old one in the bag and after some more verification handed me the bag. Miracles happen. The boarding was delayed and hence, I found the missed bag.

With the retrieved bag I was on my way leisurely to the boarding counter when I found some people running to B9 counter. I too picked up pace, reached the counter and found that the flight was now on time! I could not believe what I was hearing! There was no shortage of drama in that two hours I was at the Doha airport; missed connection, rerouting, missing hand bag and its retrieval, delayed flight and it getting back on track. Surely, my blood pressure would have been worth checking.

The three hour flight from Doha to Delhi was on time. I was surprised by the quick immigration clearance at the Delhi airport. Baggage took more than a half hour and passing through the green channel of customs I took the exit gate and re-entered the departure gate because the transfer gate had a long queue that was getting longer because of delays by security personnel. Security personnel do not seem trained enough to do a quick job, rather they plod and build queues. When questioned they say they are working for our security!

Check-in counters had long queues, but they moved quick enough to complete the process without much delay. The check-in clerk said that if I was carrying any Duty Free liquor the security personnel would not permit it to go through as cabin baggage, totally contradicting the assurance given in Doha. Again, thoughtless action by Qatar Airways. This despite my telling the transfer desk lady that on domestic flights liquor is not permitted in the cabin baggage. She told me that she is an Indian and travels regularly to Mumbai and has no such issues. Anyway, the just in time intervention at the check-in prevented unnecessary debates and consequent loss of the bottle at security.

The flight to Chennai was uneventful and as scheduled. Baggage was a good wait, but otherwise the rest were fine. After reaching home I took some time to recap the lovely Turkish Delight. The car hire had cost me Rs. 22,000, fuel Rs. 11,500 and toll Rs. 1165. I got a mileage of over 16 km to a litre of petrol. Fuel cost varied from 8.13 TL on 15 November to 9.89 on 28 November, an increase of nearly 9 percent, while Turkish Lira fell over 25 percent during the same period compensating me for the increased fuel price.

Brilliant infrastructure, seamless public transport, excellent municipal governance and responsible public amenities management. Clean toilets, garbage bins everywhere, people not shouting and creating a nuisance, excellent food, plenty of history, rich culture and much more. I could go on and on about Turkey.

A TURKISH DELIGHT - DAY 19 – 28 NOVEMBER 2021 – Ankara to Istanbul

We left Ankara in the morning with a heavy heart. Not because we had fallen in love with the city, but because of something we could not do. When I had reached Ankara in the afternoon two days before, on the 26th, I had called up the Indian Embassy at 12.45 pm. A local man, I presumed, picked up my call and asked me to stay on the line while he connected the Indian office, after I had identified myself. After a wait he connected back to say that the officials are at lunch and that I should call back at 2 pm. When I did that I was told that he could not get anyone on the line because they were all busy and I should call back after 20 minutes. I did that and, in a most apologetic tone, the person told me that no one was attending to the call from the Indian office. He further told me that the Embassy would be closed during the weekend. Is the fate of an Indian who wants assistance from his embassy officials? Mercifully, I only wanted to make a courtesy call and visit any senior Embassy official as I was in the capital city of Turkey. I thanked my lucky stars that I was not in any emergency.

The drive from Ankara to Istanbul, the last leg of the 14th edition of Record Drive, was 450 km along carpeted Expressways. It started raining almost immediately as we left Ankara. The rain and mist were so heavy and thick that visibility was considerably affected. Buffeting winds were a matter of great concern too as the small car took a lot of steering skill to keep steady. At times I wondered if I would be physically lifted and deposited in the next lane, or worse, even toppled. Anyway, after over an hour of anxious driving and a hundred km out of Ankara, the weather cleared up and the drive was silky smooth thereafter.

The Ramada Taksim is just a stone's throw away from the famed Square. The Taksim Square is the heart of modern Istanbul, with plenty of cafes, shops, hotels and restaurants. The central station of the Istanbul Metro network is also in Taksim Square. At the centre of Taksim Square is the Republic Monument, commemorating the establishment of the Turkish Republic. The Taksim Square was exceptionally crowded, being a Sunday. It has places for a busy nightlife, shopping, traditional sweet meat shops and dining areas. Vintage trams shuttle along Istiklal Caddesi, the city’s main pedestrian boulevard, ploughing through a sea of humanity. The iconic street is flanked by 19th-century buildings housing international shopping chains, movie theatres, and cafes. The dense network of side streets, filled with bars, antiques shops, and rooftop eateries have views of the Bosphorus. People were everywhere and they seems to be walking up and down, talking, laughing and stopping to admire street artists and performers.

From the Taksim Square is visible the Hagia Triada or the Holy Trinity Church that has access from the Istiklal Street. The Greek Orthodox Church was built in 1880 for the service of the Greek community in the area. This is the largest Greek Orthodox shrine in the whole of Istanbul. The neo-baroque style construction was the first domed church built after the fall of Constantinople in 1453. The twin bell towers were a novelty at the time and now the church serves a community of about a 150 parishioners. When we arrived at the church for visit and prayer, the sexton, I presumed, thrust couple of candles into our hand and asked us to light it in a designated place. As soon as they were lit he opened a draw and asked us, almost forcibly, to donate! After the donation we were permitted to go into the church. I saw this being repeated with a few more visitors. This was extortionist, to say the least. As in other churches, we were not permitted to take any photos. There were many rich icons in the church and I was particularly taken in by the one of Mother Mary.

A recent addition to the Taksim Square is the Taksim Mosque. There were protests when the project for the Mosque was announced in 2013, as people suspected that to be the President's ploy to subvert secularism, which has been the hallmark of the country since becoming a Republic in 1923. The President brooked no obstacles and the Taksim Mosque was inaugurated in May 2021. Many believe that the presence of the mosque has dwarfed the Republic Monument that exemplified the spirit of the Square.

Walking around the many shops that lead to the Istiklal Street we could not take our eyes off the displays of sweets in traditional shops that claimed its lineage from the 18th and 19th centuries. We were moths drawn to a fire. The problem was to choose what we wanted to have. Both confirmed diabetics on serious medication, this was an avoidable but unavoidable situation. While Hetal was involved in filming and documenting the displays, I was pedantically going through the menu.

In the end we decided to stand by the displays and observe what was being ordered the most. Using that method we ordered the Raspberry trilece. The first bit that came in contact with the taste buds made us abandon the idea of slowly soaking in the flavours of the heavenly spongy cake that had devoured syrupy milk. It was over oh so soon! Should we order one more of the same or another? There was a lot of back and forth. We observed the busy tables and what was being served there. Noah's pudding seemed to be the next favourite. The pudding is made of grains, grams, dried fruits and nuts. Historically, it is believed that when Noah's ark came to rest on Mount Ararat, in present day Turkey, the pudding was made with the left overs in the Ark. It is rich and high in fibre. We avoided each other's eyes after the pudding was done with, lest we fall for another temptation.

The Pera Palace Hotel, not far from the Taksim Square, a fair walk along the Istiklal Street, is where Madame Agatha Christie is reputed to have stayed often on her many trips to Istanbul while researching and writing The Murder on the Orient Express. Her consistent occupation of room number 411, her mysterious disappearance from the room for nearly two weeks and the awesome crime thriller have vested the hotel with an aura that still survives after so many decades. The Pera Palace Hotel was the only establishment, apart from the Ottoman palaces, to have electricity during the initial years when it was built in 1892. It was almost exclusively meant for passengers on the Orient Express. The hotel had installed the first electric elevator and had running hot water during 'those' days. The hotel staff kindly let us in despite the museum being closed. We walked around in awe taking in a bit of the 130 year old history of the building. When asked if we could peep into the famous room 411, we were told that they had guests staying in the room. Kemal Ataturk used to stay in room 10 of the hotel during his visits to Istanbul.

Derya Ibiloglu of Derya Travels came to the hotel to take us out to experience Turkish street food. We walked along Istiklal Caddesi, with Derya pointing out remarkable buildings, serving up their importance and darting into side streets to explore the food fare available. Finally, we settled into one and Derya ordered for us. Raki, made of twice distilled grapes and anise, is the national drink of Turkey. It is a crystal clear liquid that turns milky white upon mixing water. Meant to be had after lacing the stomach, the drink is washed down with water from a separate glass and has to be sipped temperately. Dinner consisted of a salad bowl, kidney beans, spinach, brinjal hummus, dil yoghurt, and bread. For the inveterate carnivore arrived Midye, stuffed mussels, and a special dish of fish. The one thing that stands apart in Turkish cuisine is the absence of masala and anything that makes the stomach feel heavy and bloated. Over numerous sips of Raki the food went down without a fuss.

We walked back through the always busy Istiklal Caddesi, teeming with humanity, many weighed down by their shopping bags, dodging the boisterous and taking in the sights of Istanbul's landmark area for the last time as it is time to get back to India.

 

A TURKISH DELIGHT - DAY 18 – 27 NOVEMBER 2021 – In Ankara

Defeated the previous day by the inability to communicate and get around in a taxi we decided to commute in our own car. Immediately after breakfast, which was sparse by general Turkish standards experienced thus far, filling nevertheless, we set our sights for the Anitkabir, the mausoleum of Kemal Ataturk. We were astonished by the number of buses and visitors that had lined up at the entrance for security check. Most of them were students on educational tour. When I got through to the security check one of the guards asked me where I hailed from. When I mentioned India he said "barabar". There is a general air of goodwill for Indians and Bollywood films, more so the latter. Once the security was done we drove to a car park, waved on in the right direction by marshals.

We were astounded by the sheer vastness of Anitkabir. It is a 185 acre property atop a hill named Anittepe in Central Ankara. We ascended many steps to be flanked by the Independence and Freedom Towers. Beside the Independence Tower is the Female statue group of three Turkish women in traditional attire, representing the pride of Turkish women and their solemnity and determination even in grief and hardship. The Male statue group by the side of the Freedom Tower depicts three Turkish men in traditional attire. Their serious facial expressions represent the solemnity and willpower of the Turkish people. From the two Towers start the 260 meter Road of Lions, which is the first important part of the layout. The pedestrian walkway is lined on both sides by twelve pairs of lions representing the 24 Oghuz Turkic Tribes. The Road of Lions end at the Ceremonial Plaza, which can hold 15,000 people. The floor of the Ceremonial Plaza, the second important part of the layout, is paved with travertines of different colors in the pattern of a Turkish rug.

The magnificent Hall of Honour is the iconic symbol of Anıtkabir where Kemal Atatürk's tomb is located. The mausoleum is reached by ascending 42 steps from the Ceremonial Plaza. In the Hall of Honour is a symbolic 40-ton sarcophagus below which is the special tomb room. The room is octagonal in Seljuk and Ottoman architectural styles with its pyramidal ceiling inlaid with gold mosaics. We were surprised that there were no restrictions inside the mausoleum, save silence and respect. Also we were not huddled and hurried through either.

The many towers in the complex ridging the Ceremonial Plaza are treasure houses of information about Turkey's emergence from the Ottoman rule, the First World War, the War of Independence and the consequent establishment of the Turkish Republic of which Kemal Ataturk was its first President. He along with his Prime Minister, Ismet Inonu, transformed Turkey from the 'Sick of Europe' to a modern nation. Ismet Inonu is buried at one end of the Ceremonial Plaza facing the Hall of Honour. The information contained in the museums is excellent education material for school children and researchers.

The Ankara Castle and fortifications is believed to have been first built by the Phyrgians in the 8th century BC and later improved upon by the Galatians, Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks and Ottomans over 1500 years. The castle takes up the entirety of the peak which overlooks the city and the red-tiled roofs of old Ankara’s historic houses. Many houses have been rebuilt and look very pretty. There is a huge amount of reconstruction going on to transform the old houses, many of them have even crumbled. From the castle, the red tiled buildings look fascinating. Soon the entire complex will look extremely pretty and will be one of the most sought after properties in Ankara, I am sure.

The Atakuke Tower is a 400 ft high communication and observation tower with a revolving restaurant on atop that goes around 360 degrees every one hour. The landmark structure, situated atop a hill is one of the most prominent landmarks of the city. Due to ongoing reconstruction works the tower was closed to visitors. The tower has an upscale shopping complex and many restaurants at the base overlooking the Botanical Park.

The World Peace Bell is a United Nations Peace Symbol. The first Peace Bell was cast on November 24, 1952 and was an official gift from the Japanese people to the United Nations on 8 June 1954. There are now 22 replica Peace Bells around the World including in Ankara. That is placed in the Botanical Park in Ankara.

We had an appointment after lunch to do an RTPCR test, the report of which had to be uploaded on the Air Suvidha portal before emplaning for India from Istanbul. The lab assistant turned up earlier than appointed to the hotel and the samples were taken in the hotel lobby. We passed on passport and flight details for her to enter in the report. Within 5 hours, as had been promised, the report was sent on WhatsApp.

The last bit of sightseeing in Ankara was a visit to the Kocetepe Mosque, which was just 500 meters from the hotel. It had rained heavily in the afternoon and the roads were slippery with water and fallen leaves. The Kocetepe Mosque was built in 20 years and consecrated in 1987. It is the largest mosque in Ankara and a prominent landmark. The design was reportedly heavily inspired directly by Hagia Sophia in Istanbul and indirectly through influences of the Selimiye Mosque in Erdine and Sultanahmet Mosque in Istanbul. The commodious mosque can accommodate 24,000 worshippers. The ornate interiors, superbly painted cupolas, the glittering balls of light and the superb acoustics are the highlights of the mosque.

We walked to the Cadde restaurant once again for dinner and ordered lentil soup, pulav rice and Chicken Guvec, which is basically a stew with tomato, onions, herbs and spices. The large free accompaniment arrived soon enough, sliced dill in brine, large salad bowl, bread, ezme and fries. I had the Guvec with rice, which was quite tasty, and not spicy, as is most Turkish food. When we selected the semolina pudding with ice cream for dessert we were told that it is part of the free accompaniments! When that was polished off we thanked the waiter and Ishmayel, the kind gentleman who had ushered us into the restaurant, and left. We were ready then for the morrow to make the trip to Istanbul with the repacked bags. 

A TURKISH DELIGHT - DAY 17 – 26 NOVEMBER 2021 – Goreme (Cappadoccia) to Ankara

Last night when we had got back to the hotel after dinner we were told that hot-air balloons would be flying this morning. Apart from being late in booking a ride we also factored in the price. The 'experience' would have drilled a $250 hole in each of our pockets and that we decided was not worth it. The next best thing to do from being in a bucket flying over the town is to enjoy watching hundreds of balloons take off and fly into a far distance. There are many points in and around the towns of Goreme and Uchisar from where to watch the awesome sight of the balloons lifting off and flying past. We were told that the closest point for us to view the spectacle would be the sunset point. We were at the sunset point by a quarter to seven in the morning. It was freezing cold and a bit windy. A tea shop was open with a bonfire for those who wished to be more comfortable.

In the darkness we strained our eyes to see where the lift offs would be from. Now and then, jets of gas fire would give away the locations. We sighted at least four locations where balloons were lined up for take-off. The small slivers of daylight revealed a misty morning, which meant that the sightings wouldn't be so great. The balloons started taking off from multiple locations around the town before 7.30 am. The colourful balloons that look so attractive in photos do not look like that in reality on a misty morning. Their colours get 'shown off' only when the gaslight torches the inside of the balloon intermittently for hot air to keep the balloon sailing. From the sunset point we saw the balloons careening off. The wind took them further away from where we were. But their sheer numbers were stunning. A few balloons that were launched from behind us flew closer by. But they were few and looked dull. Balloons kept taking off till about 9.15 am. Even while at breakfast in the Terrace Café we had excellent views of the balloons flying close to our hotel.

The Caravanserai Hotel served decent breakfast and it was the same every morning. Besides the staple of leafy vegetables, olives, tomatoes, cheese, honey, breads, coffee, tea, jam and ham one could have eggs to order. We took our time over breakfast keeping in view the short drive we had ahead of us for the day. The fact that the 13 rooms of the hotel were fully occupied was evident in the Terrace Cafe where breakfast had been served. The tables inside were all taken and there was a lot of lively chatter. We spotted an Indian lady YouTuber getting her piece done in the Cafe. Once done with the breakfast we thanked the manager and owner of the hotel before shifting gears for Ankara.

Ankara would be the last city we would visit before returning to Istanbul to fly back to India. Goreme to Ankara is at a distance of a few km shy of 300. We had to 'backtrack' more than forty km before we got on to the Expressway to Ankara. There are alternative routes, one the expensive Expressway and the other the inexpensive highway. Naturally I chose the high speed, expensive Expressway. After Nevsehir the superb O21 and O20 Expressways unfolded like a flawless carpet. Three or four driving lanes, with an emergency lane and guiderails, the Expressway was fully fenced and grid separated. The maximum speed on the Expressway is 120 kph. Most cars do much above that and I was buffeted many times by heavier cars speeding by. On a section of the Expressway, where there was hardly any traffic in sight, I throttled up to 162 kph. That was way above what we had done so far. Far from scared of speed, I must admit that most roads I have driven on so far have not had the consistency to attain such speed safely. The O21 is a beauty and my small car, the Dacia Sandera Stepway, did not wobble one bit. If I had wanted, I could have further downed the accelerator. The magnificent road helped maintain an average speed of almost 100 kph and we reached our hotel in Ankara in exactly three hours. That too, after navigating the busy city streets of Ankara for the last ten km!

Our hotel was close to the Kizilay Square, just a few meters in a by-lane. We took all our baggage out with the intention of repacking and getting ready for the flight back to India. The check-in was efficiently handled by a smiling, masked lady. The manager came by too to thank us for choosing the hotel. Once we had redone the bags we thought of doing some sightseeing. There is not a lot to do in Ankara, but then it is a city that we had to look at too. At the reception we were told that it would be better to take taxis rather than drive because parking could be a problem in most places. As we got of the hotel and neared the Kizilay Square we were amazed by the sea of humanity in the city centre. Traffic moved very slowly and typical city driving was the norm; sudden shifting of lanes and some honking. A kind off-duty taxi driver and a passer-by got us a taxi after I showed them the route map on Google Maps. It was indeed difficult to communicate, as most taxi drivers were unable to comprehend even basic English. We managed the taxi ride to the lovely Genclik Park.

The Genclik Park is a 70 acre property in the heart of the capital city. The erstwhile location was a marshland and that was converted into a multipurpose park with swimming pools, open air theatre, coffee houses and tracks. There is now a cultural centre and a youth centre too. The lovely fountains in the main pool are in alignment with the Ataturk monument. Beside the Park is also an amusement centre with the rides getting plenty of patronage.

Efforts to do some more sightseeing was stymied by our inability to communicate properly with taxi drivers and hence, after a visit to the Genclik Park we returned to Kizilay Square by taxi. We had to seek help from another kind taxi driver near the Ankara Central station to hail a taxi. Enough was enough and we decided that the rest of the sightseeing would be done the next day in our car. The Kizilay Square was swelling by the minute. There were people everywhere and walking almost shoulder to shoulder. No social distancing could be observed anywhere. We happened to peek into Cadde restaurant close to the Kizilay Square as we were walking past. An amiable gentleman who was in charge of ushering in customers asked what we would like to eat there. We chose to have lentil soup and Beyti Kebab. The soup came with such a lot of accompaniments that I told the waiter that we had not ordered any salad. He said that all that was before us was free with a 15 TL soup! Veg kofte, fries, bread, salad plate of carrot, purple cabbage, corn with spinach and pickled dil with a large bowl of lentil soup. Paisa vasool!! Beyti Kebab is a Turkish speciality dish of ground meat cooked on a skewer and wrapped in lavash and topped with tomato sauce and served with yoghurt. That was awesome too.

To board a flight to India one has to fill up the Air Suvidha form. Besides a lot of information one has to upload passport copy, RTPCR test result of not more than 72 hours before flight time and vaccination certificate. Instead of doing it in Istanbul the day before the flight, we decided to do the test in Ankara. At the reception, we were told that the test could be done in the hotel and the result would be available within 5 hours. We booked an appointment for that to be done the next day.

A TURKISH DELIGHT - DAY 16 – 25 NOVEMBER 2021 – In Goreme (Cappadocia)

I believe that everything that happens to you happens for a reason and every person you meet is for a reason too. This morning, after breakfast, as we were leaving the hotel I chanced upon the owner of the hotel we were staying in. He had gone through my book, “Flirting with Kangaroo and Kiwis”, at the reception and had been waiting to meet with me. After few pleasantries he asked what our plans were. When I shared that he quickly took out a tourist map and explained why I should do what he was chalking out for me. That set the tone for the rest of the day. A Guardian Angel had been placed there just for me!

Kaymakli underground city is one of the largest settlements in the Central Anatolian region. It differs from the Derinkuyu underground city, where I was initially to go, in terms of depth, structure and complexity. While Kaymakli tour can be done in a circular manner, the entry and exit in Derinkuyu is through the same route interfering with the movement of other tourists. Kaymakli is about 30 km from Goreme and the entrance fee is 60 TL per head. Immediately as we got through the entrance Levant, an English speaking guide, offered to take us around the underground city for 20 Euros.

A fan of Bollywood films and a fan of the Khans, he knew quite a few Hindi words during the tour. His favourites being Dushman, Hamla, Nazar, Masala, Phir Aana, etc. The next half hour was fascinating. There was a large group in the first level and hence, he guided us through a narrow passage to the second level, which was meant for priests. There are living areas, bigger ones for more important priests, a nave with apses, tombs and what looked to be an etched Greek Orthodox cross and a Catholic cross. The Kaymakli underground city was in regular use from 400 to 1200 AD when Christianity grew in significance and therefore, its followers were also open to persecution. Once the Ottomans overthrew the Byzantine Empire, the Christians fled to the Balkans, abandoning the underground city, which had been carved out from soft volcanic rock. The city was used intermittently for escaping invasions and intrusions by local people. Till 1964, when the city was opened to tourism, it was used as storage area by the locals as the difference in temperature between the outside and the underground was 15 degrees.

The third level is the most important place with large storage areas, oil and wine presses, kitchens and community living. Linseed oil was used to light lamps in small niches on the walls as well as for cooking. The Central Anatolian region does not grow olives. Ventilation shafts ensure that the kitchens and the city are properly vented. Cooking was mostly done in the night to escape enemy attention. Items were dried and stored like meat and fruits. The large storage area pointed to the large population it seemed to have supported, often thought to be in excess of 5000. The narrow passages could be blocked by rolling huge stones across them. There is a grinding stone, similar to the one found in homes in India in the past, called chakki, to powder cereals and grains. Another interesting large stone had small niches in them that was either used to powder spices or for metallurgy.

Only a fraction of the ancient dwellings is now open. It is said to have been at 8 levels, while only 5 levels are open to the public now, 3 having collapsed over time. At the fifth level, Levant mentioned that we were about 25 meters below the surface. The fourth and fifth levels were living quarters, larger ones for larger families, who slept in the floor, using treated animal skin as a sheet. Human waste was collected in each room in clay pots. They were treated with ash and salt to avoid smell and kill bacteria, which were later thrown out. The vent shafts were used as a water collection point as well as for security purposes.

The process for making wine then seems to have been the similar to what it is now. Crush grapes on the floor with feet, collect the juice in receptacles, through a small hole on the side of the floor. Large fermentation areas age and store the wine. Wine was considered safer than water that were often contaminated.

As we were exiting through the first level Levant explained that that level was for animals. The first level was used for animals for two reasons, one to keep away their smell and the second, as an early warning system to alert people below against intruders. There were holes in the wall to tether animals and feed them. The amount of time people spent underground depended on the enemy. They could be there for weeks or months. During the busy season more than 4000 visitors trudge the narrow passages daily, that have now been widened by the government for the comfort of visitors, as against 1000 during the off peak.

About 45 minutes’ drive from Kaymakli is the Soganli valley, with an entrance charge of 12.5 TL per person, that has a large number of rock cut churches and dwelling units carved from soft tuff stone. The valley was inhabited by Byzantine monks between the 9th and 13th centuries AD. They are responsible for the construction of more than hundred churches found in the valley, connected rock-cut houses and cloisters. Most of them have collapsed with the passage of time. Dovecotes are also notable, that are carved into the cliffs, with entry holes marked out on the cliff using white paint. They are used even now to collect pigeon excreta for use as organic manure for farming. Seven of the important churches can be visited now. A couple of them have frescos that depict the life of Christ, but most of them are heavily damaged and vandalised. One of the churches is dedicated to St. George and another to St. Barbara. Each church seemed to accommodate its own small community with living, praying and working areas.

The next visit was to the Sobesos Ancient City that was discovered by accident in 2002. As a result of three years of excavations many factors came to light that mirrored Cappadocian life of the times. From the motifs embroidered on coloured stones and floor mosaics, made with interesting geometric patterns as can be seen in the Terrace Houses in Ephesus, Roman period architecture is suggested. Some of the excavations have been of a bathhouse, cemeteries, chapel and an administrative centre.

The Cemil village was a predominantly Greek village till 1924, where a church and mosque stood side by side. The Cemil church was built in 1882. The blue-columned church, with its defaced fresco fragments, overlooks a hill slope of erstwhile Greek mansions. The village is ghostly with just about a 100 households now, dependent on farming and livestock. A portly lady came over to unlock the church. From the plastic chairs in front of an apse we presumed that the church is still used for worship. The bell tower of the church is still intact.

The Devrent Valley, near Goreme Village, is a valley like no other in the Cappadocian region. It has incredible pink-hued rock formations and geographical structures that have been formed by the magic of wind and water over millennia. Geologists call the phenomena differential erosion. The pillar like shapes and other forms, for its unearthly appearance, is known as lunar landscape or moonscape. Scattered about are formations and fairy chimneys that can be identified with your imagination. That is also why the valley is also known as Imagination Valley. The most popular formation for selfies is the camel fairy chimney.

The Love Valley, near Goreme, is a valley with scenic penis shaped natural formations. The ancient formations sit at over one thousand meters altitude and can be visited either from the viewpoint above or taken on foot. The huge phallic structures are pure magic. Apart from gift shops and cafes there are ATV rides and photography sessions. The valley is said to be popular with couples who wish to propose marriage. The entrance to both the magical valleys, Devrent and Love, are totally free. Certainly must visit for those visiting the region.

The last engagement for the day was the Goreme Open Air Museum. We were a bit stressed for time when we reached the Museum as it closed its gates by 4 PM during this season. The entry fee is steep at 100 TL per person for foreigners. The Open Air Museum is a vast monastic complex of refectories, churches and living quarters placed side by side. The Nunnery is the first building that strikes the eye as you enter the complex. There are more than 10 churches, some with well-preserved frescos that must be taken in slowly. The Buckle, Sandle, Snake, St. Barabara, Apple and Dark churches are worth spending time in. The Dark Church allowed very little light in and hence, the frescos are in better condition. Unfortunately, photography is not permitted in any of the churches.

It had been a cold day with thick mists in the morning that cleared up during the day. It was even colder when we reached the Namaste India restaurant in the town centre for dinner. While the food, masala chole, tadka dal and jeera rice were good, even though highly priced, we found the service appalling and I made it known to the management. Warm water took more than 20 minutes to arrive and the food over half hour. We had ordered tandoori roti and what arrived was tawa roti. Serving spoons had to be asked for and there were no onions, pickle or lime as asides. A very Indian experience in the heart of Turkey.

 

A TURKISH DELIGHT - DAY 15 – 24 NOVEMBER 2021 – Antalya to Goreme (Cappadocia)

The rain that drove us back to the hotel the previous night had apparently continued overnight. It did dampen the spirit a bit. More rain was expected and the forecast was unrelenting, even for Cappadocia. Respecting the weather forecast, though, I made some changes to the program. I had originally scheduled this day's drive via Mercin to Cappadocia, to enjoy more of the Mediterranean coast and its sights. A few historical sites too were on the agenda. It was to be a 725 km 12 hour drive. The change meant that the visits to Aspendos and Side, two major Roman era excavations, had to be given the short shrift. In any case, the rain would have played spoiler. Therefore, I curtailed the day's journey and decided on the shortest route to Cappadocia, 530 km in nearly 8 hours.

Getting out of Old Town, Antalya was like solving a jigsaw puzzle. So many turns and narrow streets that made me nervous about a wrong turn. Fortunately, while I was jumpy behind the wheel the weather held and so did my nerves in the end. As soon as the city was behind us my decision to change the route was justified. It started with a few drops and then turned into a light drizzle. Just out of Antalya it started pouring as if there would be no tomorrow. Visibility was near zero and traffic was high. Neither the headlights nor the fog lamps were of any use. Buffeting winds started swaying the car. It was scary and difficult to keep the car under control driving at about 80 kph. A couple of times I felt the cat lifting from the road. I feared that I would interfere with traffic in the fast lane. Keeping lanes was most difficult as I couldn't see much beyond the windshield. Moreover, stagnant water on the sides of the road sometimes led to light skidding. All in all, a tough situation. The sky was dark and getting darker. It looked as if our days outdoors were over. We kept hoping that the weather would clear up somehow.

Once we pared north east, away from the coast, after Kizilagac, the weather started easing up and the mountain roads came into view. The drive through the Taurus Mountains were a joy because the weather had cleared, the road condition was perfect and the traffic was not that high. Nearing Konya we were greeted by bright sunshine. We hoped that it would remain that way for the rest of the day at least. Konya is famous for the tomb of the famous Sufi poet Rumi. It is a place of pilgrimage for the Mevlana Sufis. The route from Konya to Cappadocia was part of the ancient Silk Road, stitching may Seljuk Turkish caravanserais along the way, of which the most impressive was reportedly Sultanhani, built in the early 13th century.

A fact that kept stunning us as we was nearing Cappadocia was the absence of the mention of Cappadocia on the sign boards. While Google Maps was apparently taking us in the right direction, the sign boards did not support that. After we crossed Nevsehir and turned the final stretch to Cappadocia came some indication from advertisement boards on the road side. A little research and the mystery was solved. Cappadocia is the region while we were headed to the towns of Uchisar and Goreme. These two places are not as well publicized as is Cappadocia. It is only when you get there that you realise the difference between the region and the towns.

Suddenly, as if from nowhere, the fairy chimneys started popping up. Though we were tempted to stop and explore we drove past Uchisar, the Castle was visible from a fair distance away, and reached Goreme so that we could get some guidance from the hotel reception on how to optimise our two night stay in Goreme. When we reached Goreme it was evident that it had rained there too. Through narrow, kuchcha roads we reached the Caravanserai Cave Hotel where we were booked to stay. The receptionist upgraded our accommodation and showed us to the room. The most welcoming part of the deal was that coffee and tea would be available round the clock in the Terrace cafe, which was just a flight of stairs from our room. I had struggled to get my early morning fix of coffee in some of the hotels we had stayed till then.

While checking in to the Hotel we were told that hot air ballooning had been cancelled for the morrow due to windy conditions. That took an important part of the agenda in Cappadocia out of the equation. Sad, but cannot fight the weather. There was only enough time this day to pay a visit to the Goreme panoramic view point and the Uchisar Castle.

Goreme is the site of the fairy chimney formations where a honey coloured village is literally carved into volcanic rock. Political turmoil is said to be the reason why people built tunnels in the sedimentary rocks to escape persecution. Since they were built as refuges many traps were inbuilt into the structure whereby heavy stones could be rolled at the enemy or eyes gouged out through holes! Later it was used by Christians retreating from Rome. The many rock churches here point to Christianity being the major religion in the area. People still live in the cave houses and many have been turned into hotels, shops and restaurants. The Goreme Historical National Park has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985.

Uchisar is the highest point in Cappadocia, just 5 km from Goreme. Entrance fee is nominal at 20 TL per adult. Many rooms, hollowed into the rock, are connected to each other with stairs, tunnels and passages. Due to erosion in places of this multi-levelled castle, it is not possible to go to all the rooms. Most of the rooms, located on the north side of the castle are used as pigeon houses today. Farmers use these cave pigeon houses to collect the droppings of pigeons which is excellent natural fertilizer for the orchards and vineyards. The summit of Uchisar Castle provides a magnificent panorama of the surrounding area. While it was extremely cold outside the castle, especially right at the top, inside the rooms it was warm and cosy.

We drifted to a traditional Turkish restaurant in the town centre for dinner. Kofte is a Turkish speciality, which is meatballs served with rice, olives, potato wedges and veggies. Needless to say, Efes Pilsner preceded the lovely meal. A lentil soup and its accompaniments were Hetal’s choice for dinner.