LEAVING PHU QUOC, VIETNAM – 5 OCTOBER 2025

Hello God

There are times when I question the presence of God. I question it most when I feel the absence of God. Like when the most heinous crimes are committed by man against man, when bombs and missiles are rained in the quest for peace, when women and children are starved in the defense of a promised land, when millions are massacred in search of power, when history is distorted to gain control over the minds of unsuspecting people. The list goes on. But, I have never questioned the absence of God in my life. I have always marveled at the magnificence of His presence every day in my life. The ubiquitous presence that makes life interesting and challenging at the same time. I believe that God will never test you beyond your strength and that if He has brought you to it, He will take you through it too. Perhaps, what I am going to illustrate this with may sound trivial, but don't small drops make the mighty Ocean?

The short holiday to Phu Quoc Island in Vietnam could not have been planned for a worse time. Weather reports predicted thunderstorm and heavy rain. Despite this, I went ahead with my flight booking and other arrangements. I landed in Phu Quoc in bright weather, but when I got to the hotel room, it changed and the promised thunderstorm arrived. It was early afternoon, and my legs were itching to walk the 2 km through the city centre to the lighthouse.

I decided to wear the raincoat and brave the showers. As I walked out of the room, I realised that that alone would not do. The hotel reception gave me an umbrella and I ventured out. Within about 10 minutes the rain ceased, and I had no further need of the umbrella, or the raincoat, for the next two days. I completed all the sightseeing and visits in decent weather, albeit humid, on the two full days I was in Phu Quoc.

As I was packing my bags this morning, at about 6.30 am for a 10.30 am departure for the airport, God appeared. It started raining so heavily that the hotel staff requested its patrons to move further away from the open area of the restaurant. It rained and poured so much that it felt as if the thundershowers that were held up for me for two full days, had to be emptied as I had completed my itinerary in Phu Quoc. Such is the overarching presence of God in my life that I only bemoan his absence when it comes to the larger interests of humanity. As far as I am concerned, He has given me more than I ever deserved and I genuflect with gratitude ever so often, acknowledging His presence. Amen

The taxi, as usual, was punctual. I left the hotel after thanking the owners and their staff for the extremely pleasant stay. The taxi driver turned out to be an entertaining person. He was keen to know a lot about India and Hindi. He asked me to teach him how one could say 'Thank You' in Hindi. He was already familiar with Namaste. He picked up 'Dhanyawad' quite easily. So, I added ' Bahut' to it and he was mighty pleased. In about 20 minutes he dropped me off at the airport.

A short while later he rang me up and said that he was coming back to the airport to collect his fare. I told him that he should collect that from the hotel as I had paid it to the lady owner the previous night. Later I got a call from the owner's husband to apologise for the confusion as his wife had not told him about the fare having been collected by her. Woman power!

I was in for a huge disappointment as I reached the check-in counter. I was told that the flight would be at least two hours delayed from its scheduled departure time of 1.10 pm. Such a waste of time. I had to while away the entire morning and a good part of the afternoon outside the airport as there was no seating inside. The flight took off from Phu Quoc almost three hours behind schedule. That left with me with less than two hours for the connecting international flight. I collected the check-in bag and virtually ran to the international terminal. The check-in counters snaked so long that I requested the Vietjet staff to open a few more counters. The pleas finally found a taker and a few more counters got opened. 

Thereafter started the ordeal at the immigration. Pathetic is the word for the experience. The number of counters were fewer than actually required and the time taken was also too much to clear the queue quickly. The next hurdle was the security, where also the queue length was exceptionally long. I went to the section where staff were being cleared. When the security guy saw that my flight was already boarding, he let me pass through. All in all, must say that the Vietjet experience of transit facilitation is extremely poor. Another area where one must beware is the awful food served on the Vietjet flights. It's better to save that money and have food from one of the airport restaurants.

THE DAY BEFORE LEAVING PHU QUOC, VIETNAM – 4 OCTOBER 2025

“A mind stretched by new experiences can never go back to its old dimensions”. - Oliver Wendel Holmes Jr.

As with the previous day, as I got back to the hotel from the KingKong Mart last night, I requested the owner of the hotel to get me a combo ticket for the tour of Vinpearl Safari and VinWonders this day. She told me that the combo ticket would cost me 1,450,000 VND and that the taxi would cost 1,000,000 VND. The combo ticket for Vinpearl Safari and VinWonders, which gave me a discount of 350,000 VND. Moreover, she told me that the combo ticket price includes a free lunch in any of the two attractions. That, indeed, was a bargain, to my mind. The higher cost of the taxi, as compared to the previous day, was because of the distance to be covered to visit the attractions in the northern parts of Phu Quoc Island. She also told me that, as an alternative, I could rent an electric motorbike for just 150,000 VND, or about ₹500. I left that decision to be taken in the morning. 

While the cost was indeed a consideration, the weather was even more so, as it looked it would rain sometime during the day. Thus, after a breakfast of scrambled eggs, bun, coffee and fruits I decided on hiring a taxi for the day. That settled, I paid the lady for the combo ticket and the taxi. Bac would be the 'guide' today too.

As we started our ride for the day, Bac asked me, using Google translate, of course, if I would like to go to a retail shop of Vietnamese silk. He said that their products are sought after the world over. I thought it would be a good idea to see the products and judge for myself. At the entrance to the showroom, as it was with the Pearl Farm the previous evening, I was given a visitors tag to wear before going in.

I was told that the production of Vietnamese silk has been a traditional craft passed down through generations, and it has a rich history deeply rooted in Vietnamese culture. It is one of the souvenirs that visitors take back from their Vietnamese visit. First I was shown how the silkworms work their magic and produce the white and yellow yarn.

The person explaining the process prized open the cocoon and told me that they are a delicacy in Vietnamese cuisine. He took me to a room where different types of duvets and covers, made of the finest silk, were nearly stacked. He opened a few of them and explained the intricate work and weave of the products. Soon I moved over to the other sections where silk and silk mixed fabric and stitched clothes, as well as scarves were on sale. I must say that the prices were reasonable too.

We left the city and drove to the Vinpearl Safari Park. The number of vehicles parked near the entrance indicated that many visitors had already gained entrance. As I had already bought the ticket in advance, I slipped the ticket counter and went directly to the turnstile, where my digital ticket was examined and scanned and I gained entry to the humongous Park.

Spanning 380 hectares, the must visit Vinpearl Safari is home to over 150 animal species, employing more than 3,000 individuals, and boasts 1,200 plant species from around the globe. This expansive park offers wildlife enthusiasts a unique opportunity to observe animals in their natural habitat. It is, undoubtedly, an unforgettable experience in Phu Quoc.

The Vinpearl wildlife sanctuary is divided into 2 areas, namely Safari Park and Open Zoo. While one can walk through the latter, the former is explored in a free business tour. The massive open zoo starts with a flamingo park and wends through enclosures for giraffes, tapir, rhinos, lemurs, crocodiles, orangutans, camels, aviary, white lions, royal Bengal tigers, antelopes, gaur and many, many more. The Kids Zoo is also part of the Open Zoo as also animal shows. I was truly awed by the hornbill show.

The Safari Park is traversed through dense forests where leopards, lions, tigers, antelopes of different types, bears, rhinos, hippos, etc can be seen in their natural habitat. Truly an exhilarating experience. You need strong legs and lots of time in humid conditions to navigate the massive park. After trudging enthusiastically for over two hours, I lost much of my steam.

After the enjoyable, though exhausting Safari exploration, I was a bit short on legs and enthusiasm when I landed at VinWonders. However, the minute I got down from the taxi and saw the grand fountain and entrance, a second wind goaded me on. It is truly a magical place which features six meticulously designed themed zones, inspired by human civilizations and legendary fairy tales from around the world.

The journey starts at the European Avenue, where one is transported to a charming medieval town, walking along cobblestone streets lined with grand Renaissance buildings and lively shops. Then comes the mythical multiverse at Fantasy World, where favourite stories like Alice in Wonderland, Cinderella and Thumbelina come alive. It also has The Dragon’s Spell – Vietnam’s first-ever dark indoor interactive ride.

The Viking Village is where rope courses, jungle zip lines, and treetop bridges await. At the Adventure World the stout hearted can brave Wrath of Zeus – one of the fastest roller coasters on Earth, reaching speeds of up to 110 km/h. Many of the rides are not open to those above the age of 60, and I was denied. The Sea Shell aquarium is ranked among the world's largest. Typhoon world is the largest water park in Southeast Asia, with 36 rides.

VinWonders packs activities for all ages, with plenty to eat and drink. The multi-themed park with its performances, rides and special shows make this an unforgettable experience. At the hotel I had been told that the combo ticket entitled me to a meal in one of the two attractions. I was famished by the time I reached VinWonders. The aromas that wanted from the restaurant that served the buffet drew me like a magnet. However, at the entrance I was told that I would have to by a separate ticket for the meal. I spoke to the owner to confirm if what I was being told was correct. She rang me up in a while, profusely apologetic about the discontinuance of the promotional offer the previous week. Apparently, the agent had not updated her about the revision. She was so embarrassed that she offered me free dinner at her restaurant later in the evening. I told her that she should not dwell too much on it because it was a genuine mistake. Later, I relaxed a while in a small restaurant and had a cup of Vietnamese noodles, much like the Maggie noodles back home.

The next stop for the day's tour was the Starfish beach. But I stopped for some time after teg VinWonders tour at the Grand World, which is promoted as "The City That Never Sleeps", which is a 24/7 experience 365 days of the year. It is apparently a unique experience, spanning over 85 hectares.

Grand World possesses splendid and magnificent architecture; bustling and trendy commercial streets; vibrant festivals and parties; and is the center of bustling entertainment. At the entrance is an unusual building. it is said that 42,000 bamboo trees were used to create this masterpiece, a 15-metre-high creation in an area of 700 sqm. The three main cultural symbols of Vietnam, the bamboo tree, lotus and the bronze drum are interwoven into the unique structure.

Time being scarce, I did not venture into the main entertainment areas of Grand World. I was struck by the Urban Park adjacent to the Bamboo Legend structure. This outdoor art park blends contemporary art with nature, featuring numerous large-scale sculptures, themed walking paths, and artistic installations. It showcases over 55 artworks, including pieces like "Hair of Rivers," "Mother Earth," and "Blooming Life". Indeed, an awesome place to spend time and relax.

The Starfish Beach, at the northern end of the Phu Quoc island, was apparently only discovered in 2014. The last few kms to the starfish beach is a test of one's patience and integrity of the body. The bone shaker ride, in the end, was not worth its while. Once the taxi was parked, I was approached by a young man who asked if I was there to see starfish. I almost sneered and wondered why I would need his assistance to see starfish on the beach. As I neared the waterfront, I found it muddy and dirty. Surely, one cannot see starfish there. Many ramshackle, wooden bridges led to what apparently were waiting sheds from where one has to take a boat to an island where there are literally thousands of starfish in the sea. The posts on the internet, thus, were misleading. None of them talked about having to take a boat to go to an island to watch the starfish. I decided to skip that routine and get back to the hotel.

When I returned to the hotel the owner was waiting for me to apologize in person for the inconvenience she had inadvertently caused about the lunch. She invited me for dinner later. After a can of Bia Saigon I went to the restaurant and ordered a starter of shrimp and a main course of prawns with mushrooms with white rice. I slowly got through the large portions sipping on a couple of more beers. After the email the owner told me that she would give me a 50 percent off the bill. I refused her offer of recompense, telling her that it was a genuine mistake and had not resulted from a deliberate attempt to dupe me. Besides, I also paid her for the taxi to drop me off at the airport the next day. Thus ended the sightseeing tour of Phu Quoc over the Dussehra vacation. 

THE DAY AFTER DUSSEHRA IN PHU QUOC, VIETNAM – 3 OCTOBER 2025

"It’s better to see something once than hear about it a thousand times.” - Asian Proverb

Last evening, when I returned to the hotel from the long walk, I made arrangements with the owner of the hotel, a lady, for a taxi to take me to the sights in the southern parts of the island, most notably the Hon Thom cable car station to visit Sunworld. She told me that the Sunworld entrance fee would be 750,000 VND and the taxi would be at my disposal for the day at 800,000 VND, which in INR terms was less than 5500! I had accepted the suggestion of the lady to go in for a non-English speaking driver, as that would be cheaper. Surely, a bargain, I thought and struck the deal and arranged for the taxi to be at the hotel by 9 am.

Breakfast at the hotel began at 7.30 am. I was the earliest bird in the restaurant and was charmed by the smiling and polite waitress. She allowed me to choose my seat and set a laminated menu sheet in front of me. I had a variety of egg preparations to choose from accompanied by the ubiquitous Vietnamese crispy bun. I chose to have a cheese and ham omlette with coffee.

The fresh and crispy Vietnamese bun can be messy for the crumbs, but is tasty and filling. The coffee was served black and I requested for milk and sugar. The coffee from freshy ground Vietnamese beans was indeed so refreshing that I asked for another cup of the same. When I was done with the coffee, the pretty waitress brought me a few cut pieces of watermelon and dragon fruit.

After breakfast, I sauntered towards the sea shore from the hotel and I reached a resort that fronted the Long beach, which is one of the longest beaches in Phu Quoc; stretches over 20 km. It is renowned as one of Phu Quoc Island's most picturesque beaches. The Long Beach captivates both local and international visitors with its golden sand and crystal-clear water. I confidently trespassed one of the private Beach Clubs and walked it's beach for some time before getting back to the hotel to get ready for the long day ahead of me.

The skies promised to hold for the day. Nevertheless, I carried the umbrella with me so that any eventuality from the weather could be countered. Moreover, as I would be traveling in a taxi, the chances of being drenched from the rain was substantially reduced. Exactly at 9 am, the taxi from Xahn SM was at the hotel and I was ready for Bac, my driver and friend for the day. The young man was so polite that I felt my own behavior changing to accommodate the culture that so exuded from Bac. He double checked with me, using Google translate, the itinerary for the day.

The taxi was a made in Vietnam vehicle, Vinfast. The VinFast Auto Ltd. is a Vietnamese multinational automotive company founded by the Vingroup, which is one of the largest private conglomerates in Vietnam. The company was established in 2017 in Haiphong, Vietnam and is the first Vietnamese car brand to expand into global markets. It was also the first to expand into producing electric cars and scooters in Vietnam. Most taxis in Phu Quoc, I found, were Vinfast productions.

As with the Vingroup, the Sun World is the entertainment brand of Sun Group, a major Vietnamese conglomerate that also operates in real estate, infrastructure, and hospitality. The group operates a collection of theme parks and entertainment complexes across Vietnam, such as Sun World Ba Na Hills, Sun World Halong Complex, and Sun World Fansipan Legend. These parks are known for combining entertainment with natural landscapes and local culture, creating popular tourist destinations.

The Sunworld company has developed a paradise south of Phu Quoc pearl island in Hon Thom, which is a favourite with visitors from all over the world and domestically. The tourists are immersed in the beauty of pristine nature with fine white sand and blue water. The cable car, spanning nearly 8 km has been recognized by Guinness Book of World Records as the longest non-stop three-way cable car ride in the world. It is an unforgettable 15-minute experience. The cable car ride provides scenic views of the An Thoi archipelago and connects An Thoi Town to Hon Thom Island. The cable car has 69 cabins, each holding up to 30 passengers, and offers stunning panoramic ocean views. 

Aquatopia Water Park was opened in December 2019 and has a lot of interesting entertainment options. More than 20 adventurous games designed according to international standards have been completed and is the most modern theme park in Southeast Asia. The Aquatopia is a paradise filled with water rides.

The Aquatopia Water Park is designed and divided into 6 unique zones. The zones are Tropical Fruits, Marine Creatures, Wild Animals, Sea Monster, Aboriginal and Pirate World. The water slides seemed to be the most popular. Unlimited rides are included in the entrance fee of 750,000 VND as also is a litre of Kraftbeer or soft drinks. One can easily spend a whole day there and the fireworks and nighttime experience is said to top all that. Time and money well spent.

After spending the entire morning in Sunworld, I was 'trapped' on the island during the cable car break time, which I did not in advance.  I utilised the time gorging on a humongous shawarma lunch made by a Russian chef. While on the return to An Thoi I could make out the Kiss Bridge at a distance. The entrance to that iconic bridge is also free with the Sunworld ticket. Marco Casamonti, an Italian architect, is the father of this unparalleled building. What makes the 810 meter bridge exceptional is its two separate spans, with a gap of exactly 50 centimeters at its peak. This intentional space has led to romantic scenes where two lovers kiss sweetly on opposite sides.

From An Thoi, Bac drove me to the Phu Quoc prison museum, aka Coconut Tree prison, which was witness to some of the most inhuman treatment meted out to humankind in the 1950s. Phu Quoc Prison was built by the French colonial administration in 1949 to detain Vietnamese revolutionaries. After 1954, it was taken over by the U.S.-backed South Vietnamese government and significantly expanded. During the Vietnam War, it became the largest detention center in the South, holding more than 40,000 detainees, many of whom were subjected to severe torture and inhumane conditions. Following Vietnam’s reunification in 1975, Phu Quoc Prison was decommissioned and later officially recognized as a National Historical Relic in 1995, marking its transition from a war facility to a site of remembrance.

 Today, the prison stands as a solemn reminder of the cruelty endured during conflict, while honoring the resilience and sacrifices of Vietnamese soldiers. It plays a vital role in preserving these war memories for future generations, offering visitors insight into the harsh realities faced by prisoners. But, most importantly, it serves as a shining example of the resilience of a people who refused to bow down to those who tried to break them.

The Sao Beach is a pristine crescent shaped haven with powdery white sand stretching over 7 kilometers. With its serene atmosphere and crystal-clear waters, this awesome beach offers the perfect escape for beach lovers and adventure seekers. It seemed that the resorts in Sao Beach is popular with Indian tourists.

The beach is surrounded by lush green mountains and fringed with swaying coconut palms, contributing to a tranquil and tropical ambiance. Popular activities include swimming, sunbathing, snorkeling to see colorful coral reefs, kayaking, and parasailing. Fresh catch of seafood is also served in the restaurants and resorts near the beach.

Quietly nestled at the foot of the mountain, Ham Ninh fishing village is one of the oldest villages in Phu Quoc Island. The driver, young Bac, told me that it was once a quaint place with exquisite landscape. All that remains are cafes, restaurants and shops. However, it is still listed in tourist posts as a must visit site, with which I disagree. The waters around Ham Ninh are quite shallow; when the tide recedes, endless stretches of sand appear, and when the tide rises, the sea water touches the edge of the forest.

The old concrete bridge, possibly the fish landing center in the past, has collapsed. I walked into the Bien Xanh restaurant that was empty at the time of my visit. Purely going by its size, I considered it one of the popular restaurants in the area. The workers were lazing around, possibly after a busy lunch schedule. They permitted me free access to walk around and enjoy the waterfront property.

While in Phu Quoc a visit to the Ngon Hein pearl farm is certainly a must to understand the process of cultured pearls. I was escorted into the large showroom where a lady explained how cultured pearls are developed. She even showed me how the pearl is harvested by opening a live oyster. The pearls are typically harvested between a year and six years; the longer it takes, the better the quality of the pearl. The harvested pearls come in various colors such as ivory white, yellow, or black, depending on the coloration of each oyster. There is a museum with many relics retrieved from the bottom of the sea like pots and pans, large conch shells, driftwood, etc. 

The final section is the retail area where set pearls and loose pearls are on display. Considering the number of people there, many Indians, I considered that the products are genuine. I was shown how to distinguish between a genuine pearl and fake. Rub them against each other. The genuine one will produce a powdery substance. The displays were exquisite, and I don't know how I overcame the overarching desire to at least buy a souvenir.

With that my day with Bac was over. A day well spent and the money too. Later in the evening, after a short rest in the hotel room, I took a walk to the KingKong Mart, which is a place to visit for bargain shopping in Phu Quoc. The giant store has everything, clothes, shoes, bags, souvenirs, grocery, food, drinks, and as was to be expected, filled with Indian tourists. I was not wrong in suspecting that many of the displays were Chinese products.

DUSSEHRA IN PHU QUOC, VIETNAM – 2 OCTOBER 2025 – PART 2

“You cannot discover new oceans until you have the courage to leave sight of the shore.”

I had asked the hotel in Phu Quoc for airport transfer. The English-speaking driver was quite voluble, explaining places to visit while in the Island and the tours he could take me on. According to him, the inauguration of the international airport about 12 years ago kindled tourism in the island. Indians, Chinese and Koreans make up most of the tourists to Phu Quoc, he said.

He mentioned that Koreans come to Phu Quoc for massage because they love it and it's cheaper in the island than in South Korea. He said that many of them set up businesses in Phu Quoc employing local labour. After that nugget of information, I started noticing many enterprises purely Korean like fashion stores, restaurants, etc.

As luck would have it, the minute I checked into the hotel in Phu Quoc and got ready for a long walk, the skies opened up such that I could not leave the room for about 15 minutes. Undeterred, I ventured out with an umbrella sought from the hotel. Fortune favours the bold, as it did me, during the walk. The heavens became kinder and sent me bright sunshine accompanied by blue skies in a while, permitting me to rest the umbrella. I walked all the way to the Phu Quoc night market and back soaking up, literally, the sights along the way.

I kept to the main road, the Duong Tran Hung Dao, with numerous sea facing resorts to my right and malls, cafes, restaurants and shopping experiences to my left. The prominent resorts I went past were the Sea Star resort, Angry Crab resort, Orange resort, L'Azure resort, Saigon Phu Quoc resort and the Seashells Phu Quoc Hotel resort. The last named is probably the biggest and the locationally best placed among all of them. It is shaped like a massive cruise vessel.

Beyond the Seashells resort is the public Phu Quoc beach, which was not very busy at the time of my visit, considering that the rain had eased just an hour ago. However, the bright sunshine gave the place and extra sheen. Just past that I came to the Dinh Cau Temple, which is not only a famous spiritual site in Phu Quoc but also a long-standing cultural symbol deeply tied to the island's fishing communities.

Perched on a rocky cape where the river meets the sea, it also offers one of the island's most breathtaking sunset views. The Dinh Cau Temple offers a calm atmosphere, where the waves crash against the rocks and the lighthouse beside it shines brightly. Recognized as a provincial relic in 2012, the temple stands as a powerful symbol of spiritual heritage in Phu Quoc.

A short distance away is the awesomely colorful Dinh Ba Thuy Long Thánh Mau, which is a beautiful and popular Vietnamese temple, just off the beach and the lighthouse of Phu Quoc city. This "female" temple (Dinh Ba) is dedicated to pray for the safety of the fisherfolk of the area, as this was the main activity in the island in the years gone by. 

It was especially interesting to note that the idols on the altars were Chinese character representations of the deity's name. I was transfixed by the beautiful, engraved floor tiles! Of particular interest to me was the "fortune sticks", numbered 1 to 100, in the bamboo holders. I saw a lady worshipper shake them until a numbered stick fell out. She then read her 'fortune' written on the stick; she didn't seem greatly pleased by what she read!

The sheltered fishing harbor has an entertainment corniche where parties and programs are held. It is indeed a beautiful place to hang out, feel the wispy sea breeze on your body and relax. Walking around there, looking for some shop to buy a sim card, I chances upon a small eatery where I ordered a portion of chicken fried rice. The huge portion, served with chicken broth, overawed me. I patiently went through most of the delicious fried rice, sipping on a can of Heineken beer.

By the time I finished the meal, the famed night market of Phu Quoc started coming to life. This vibrant night market is full of energy and excitement. It offers a wide variety of food stalls, souvenir shops, restaurants, and retail. It’s the perfect place to spend an enjoyable evening strolling around, savoring delicious bites, sipping on drinks, and picking up bargains. It would not be wrong to say that the night market has something for everyone. If you want to see the aggregation of the tourists in Phu Quoc, the night market is the place to be.

On the walk back to the hotel, after a while, I lost count of the number of Indian restaurants that were soliciting customers. The restaurants started getting busy a bit after 7 pm. The numerous reflexology and massage centers were doing brisk business too. I had had a rather long day, and my legs would carry me no further. So back to the hotel room I retreated to after exchanging currency and buying a sim card.