96 Hours in Maldives - 16-20 April 2025 - Concluding observations about Maldives

1. I have, by now, travelled to 61 countries, including Maldives. I had hoped to drive at least one day in Maldives, from Male to Hulhumale. I couldn't find a car rental company either online or from the hotel in Male. Thus, it was amply clear that such a practice didn't exist in Male. However, taxis are in plenty and the public transport system on land and sea is quite efficient.

2. The Maldives primarily relies on desalination plants to obtain drinking water, as the country lacks natural freshwater sources like rivers or streams. Rainwater harvesting and groundwater extraction are also used but is not very prevalent.

3. Maldives relies on imports to meet its fuel requirements with most of it coming from India, Sri Lanka, and Turkey. Despite this the price of petrol is less than a one-third as compared to India. A huge initiative is underway to install solar power plants and to tap wave energy waste-to-energy. The large solar park along the causeway linking Hulhule and Hulhumale is a case in point.

4.  The Maldives' main export product is fish (accounting for over 40 percent of total exports). Others include used engines and metal scrap. The Maldives' main export partners are France, Thailand, Sri Lanka, Italy, the United Kingdom, Iran, Germany, the Netherlands and the United States.

5.  Maldives has adopted a comprehensive policy regarding waste management. Thilafushi island was created in the 1990s as a landfill site to dispose of the Maldives' waste. Today, it is a hub for waste management and recycling, and it also has a growing industrial sector.

6. I found honesty a pervasive value system among the Maldivians, coupled with trust. I experienced both facets during my stay in the country. When I toured Villingili island by ferry from Male I realized that I was not given the correct change at the Male ferry ticket counter. When I returned, I explained the shortchange to one of the counter clerks at the Male ferry ticket counter. After a few peremptory questions she handed over the amount without any ado. Customer service and trust

7. With little or no manufacturing on the Maldivian islands, most things are imported from Malaysia and China; food stuff is mostly from the former and electrical and electronic items are from the latter.

8. I found the taste of Nescafe coffee very different in Maldives as compared to the Nescafe Classic in India. Moreover, a coffee stub has more quantity in Maldives as compared to India.

9. The Coffeemate creamer dissolves fully in hot water and coffee as compared to the lumps that form when creamer is used in India.

10. The beaches are clean and white coral sand is the norm. People don't make a nuisance of themselves while at the beaches. Thus, one can enjoy the salubrious environment in peace and quiet.

11. The crime rate is low. However, juvenile delinquency is on the rise.

12. EVs primarily consist of tricycles and bicycles, representing a small percentage of the overall vehicle fleet. I found EVs operating in Villingili and Hulhumale, without exception. All public transport is EV based.

13. I visited Male, Villingili, Hulhumale and Maafushi islands during my stay in the Maldives. Each of them has schools and hospitals. In fact, the major hospital in Male is named after the former Indian Prime Minister, Ms. Indira Gandhi.

14. Most of the water sports equipment looked spanking new and every effort is made to maintain them. Trained instructors and friendly staff of the service providers make the activities enjoyable.

15. The exchange of currency upon completing immigration and customs is an intriguing aspect of a visit to Maldives. There are bank counters at the airport as one exits the arrival hall. As I was moving towards one, an agent approached me with the offer of 16.5 MVR to a USD against the official bank rate of 15 MVR to a USD. Besides, when I checked the day's online exchange rate it was only 15.6 to a USD. I was intrigued, but naturally, I opted for the best rate I was offered.

16. In most places, items are priced in USD, be it a restaurant or souvenir shop. The catch is the exchange rate they apply. When you pay in MVR some apply 17, others 16 and so on. Thus, there is no uniformity in the USD to MVR conversion rate.

17. Male is exceptionally crowded as more than 80 percent of the population of the country reside in Male. Most government offices and commercial centers are in Male. Besides, the roads and streets are narrow. Despite all this, I didn't experience traffic snarls, except on the Friendship Bridge linking Male to Hulhule. Under the circumstances, responsible parking and driving are most essential to ensure smooth flow of traffic. This is exactly what I saw and experienced in Male.

18. There is complete prohibition in Maldives; taking liquor into the country is punishable by law. However, private resorts do serve liquor; it goes without saying that a small swig can cost you an arm and some more. Besides this, for people vacationing in public Islands there is a boat anchored off one of the islands where one can go by speedboat, have your gills filled, enjoy the sunset and get back to your hotel or guesthouse.

19. Reclamation on some of the islands is going on at a fast pace, with a view to decongesting Male and building infra for tourism. Besides, bridges are being built to provide better connectivity, like the one linking Male and Villingili.

20. Maldives is generally perceived as a high-cost tourist destination. Private resorts are certainly pricey and the facilities they provide are very different too. No doubt, the experience is certainly something that's out of the world, so to say. However, a budget traveler too has a space in Maldives. Guesthouses on public Islands, reasonably priced hotels in Male and pocket friendly water and outdoor facilities are available too. Thus, based on what your wallet can afford and/or your taste, the choices are available.

21. At the hotels in Male and Maafushi, where I thought I had paid all the charges on the booking.com site prior to arriving in Maldives, I was asked to pay some extra amount to cover environmental charges and such other. The hotel reception did not push me for immediate payment but told me to check back with the booking site for the residual charges. They trusted the customer.

22. In Maafushi I came across a recycling plant. What captured my attention was waste being brought in battery-operated three wheelers and handcarts to the recycling plant and an orderly process followed to take them in. There is an organised system of garbage collection, too.

23. The public toilets are kept clean, and attendants can be seen washing them and keeping them spotless for guests to use.

24. Defacing public property is dealt with severely and, therefore, one does not come across vandalism or wanton acts of incivility.

25. Being a conservative country, showing affection in public is not encouraged. The most you might see is couples or friends holding hands.

26. Modest dressing is the norm. Locals cannot be seen with dresses that even slightly hint at indecent exposure. Even visitors are careful when going out in public. I overheard a few women enquiring at the hotel reception about the dressing code that was acceptable in public.

27. Most public islands have at least one 'bikini beach' while most others are designated as 'no bikini' beaches. Of course, in private island resorts such restrictions are not there.

28. Pedestrian is given the right of way, despite the busy and crowded roads and narrow streets of Male. Two wheelers and four wheelers respect the pedestrian and stop for them to get across at zebra crossings.

29. In Male, space for parking is limited. However, it is a sight to learn from how two wheelers, the predominant transport mode, are parked in designated places.

96 Hours in Maldives - Day Four - 19 April 2025 - Maafushi

The room in the Rosemary Boutique hotel is small but adequate for a solo traveler. It is quite proximate to the popular beaches, cafes, restaurants, souvenir shops and supermarket. In any case, the island is small, and one can walk around the entire island in less than an hour, from the bikini beach to the prison. Breakfast was done and dusted before 8 am. It consisted of toast, scrambled egg, baked beans, pancake and chicken sausage.

Plenty of action was scheduled for the day. The activities for the first half of the day were organized by the hotel. Snorkeling to admire fish, coral reef and coral garden, a swim in the Gulhi island beach, lunch on board the boat and dolphin watching. The tour group consisted of just four of us from the hotel. At the hotel reception we were given snorkeling gear, life jackets and beach towels. Nazir from Bangladesh was our instructor and guide. The hotel promised, as part of the package, underwater videos and photos of the snorkeling trips.

Before getting on to the boat at the Maafushi jetty, we were asked to place our footwear in a plastic bin, so that the boat remained clean. Besides Nazir, there was a boatman and his assistant who conducted matters on board and in water. Nazir gave us a short introduction on how to use snorkeling gear and how we should breathe under water.

The first stop was at the Biyadhoo Reef, which was told to us as a kaleidoscope of vibrant corals and exotic fish. The videos of this, apart from many others, were constantly played on a TV screen at the hotel reception to entice customers to 'take the bait'. When we arrived at the reef, Nazir told us that the most exotic part of it is part of a private beach and that we would be snorkeling away from there, in the deeper part of the waters.

I was the first to get into the water. I 'fluttered' around without any problem. I was constantly telling myself to breathe through the mouth and not through the nose. Nazir brought many fish around by feeding them soaked bread. I did see many types of fish, some with vibrant colors and others too. Later, Nazir told me that it was schools of angelfish and clownfish that had darted around me, their colors shimmering in the sunlight. I felt like I was part of a living painting, each stroke of the hands revealing new wonders.

As we were only four of us, it didn't take much time to move on from the Biyadhoo reef to the next location where we were to explore a Coral Garden, which is supposed to offer an extraordinary underwater spectacle that feels almost surreal teeming with diverse aquatic life. Being protected from strong currents, the site is suitable for all levels of experience.

I found the Coral Garden site deeper than the Biyadhoo reef. But the Coral Garden, by itself, was a sight to behold. I didn't see much of aquatic life, but plenty of corals. I was upset that I could not go closer to the Coral Garden to explore any further than I did. Water started filling up in my mask and not knowing how to swim was a major handicap too.

Onwards to what Nazir described as one of the best beaches in Maldives, the Gulhi island. Situated close to Maafushi, the island is home to less than a thousand inhabitants and is one third the size of Maafushi. A short walk from the jetty, about 250 meters through a shop fringed walkway, took me to the Gulhi beach.

The beach is among the longest in Maldives, with pristine waters and white coral sand. A few meters from the shore is a swing with 'I love Gulhi' written above it. There was a long queue of couples and friends to get to the swing. Once they got there, regardless of how many were waiting, they took their own sweet time to make way for another. Nazir had given us 45 minutes in Gulhi. I waded around and had fun for some time in the shallow water before I headed back to the boat.

Lunch was served on boat. A sparse offering of cold Tuna fried rice, salad and watermelon. After lunch was done with, we started back to Maafushi. Nazir told us that, if fortune favors us, we could sight dolphins. However, fortune was not on our side, and we got back to Maafushi.

I went to the iCom office and booked the airport transfer for the next day. Back in the hotel I was told that it was best to start the next set of water sport by 3 pm. I got back to the reception after a short rest in the room, in time for the next parcel of outdoor activity. It had been hot in the morning and that deflated the energies a bit.

There were three couples for the afternoon events. First on the list was parasailing. I had never done that before and my excitement peaked when I boarded the speedboat with a couple of crew members, who gave us instructions to enjoy the ride. The parasail is connected to the boat through a retractable 300-meter rope.

When I got strapped on for the ride I had rushes of adrenaline. It was a magnificent experience, especially considering the surroundings. The Watersports company's drone hung around for some time taking videos. Waters of different hues, calm winds, brilliant skylines, jet skis making vivid patterns and Funboats bumping along, all made for an unforgettable experience.

The Funboat ride is essentially an inflated four-seater sofa pulled by a Jet ski on waters made choppy by the zigzagging Jet ski. Nakul, who was riding the Jet ski, kept turning around to see if I was still on board, as the old man was bouncing around as if he would go overboard any time! I was transported back in age and time. I clung on to the straps of the Funboat for dear life, but it was great fun. I was completely drenched from head to toe by the time the ride ended.

Nakul was once again the Jet ski driver when I took the pillion for the next event. It was a most amazing experience. Though a bone shaker and a threat to the well-being of the lower extremity it was exceptional. Nakul took me along the entire length of the island and the prison fortification looked formidable from the waterside. The 15-minute thuddy ride ended the assisted watersports for the evening.

Last on the list for the day was kayaking. I have a problem sitting in a kayak. I had tried it in Philippines too. This time around also I gave up after a short time. My back ached and I started cramping. I handed over the kayak and walked back to the hotel to rest a while and look around for some place to sup. I took some time to pack the bags too, as the fun time in the Maldives was drawing to a close.

I walked round quite a bit looking for a suitable place and menu to have dinner. After almost walking around the entire island, I landed up at Caviar restaurant. I ordered chicken kothu roshi, which is basically a dish made of chicken pieces and shredded flatbread. It was served with a double fried egg.

I thoroughly enjoyed the large portion of the kothu. After the meal I went in search of the ice cream stall I had scouted in the morning. I wanted to have a portion of the screw pine ice cream. Unfortunately, I had to settle for coconut ice cream as the stall had run out of the screw pine ice cream.

On the way back to the hotel I collected videos and photos of the day's activities. I arranged with the hotel reception to drop me to the jetty for the 12-noon airport speedboat ride.

96 Hours in Maldives - Day 3 - 18 April 2025 - Maafushi

I asked for breakfast at 8 am in the room and it was promptly served. It was a repetition of the previous day's menu, toast with butter and jam, omelet, chicken sausage, orange juice and coffee. Murthy, the hotel staff, was on his day off. Another boy helped me take the bags down to the reception. Before leaving the hotel, I ascertained that I had paid all the dues.

Maafushi is less than 26 km from Male, and it takes 30 minutes to reach there by speedboat. The options to get to Maafushi are public ferry, speedboat and seaplane, ranking them by speed and fare. Being a Friday, there was no public ferry service to Maafushi from Male.

I reached Jetty No 6 in Male, which is less than 500 meters from the hotel well ahead of the appointed speedboat departure time of 9.45 am. The streets were virtually empty as it was a holiday. Along the many jetties of Male, speedboats of different sizes were berthed. Every few minutes they left with loads of passengers and luggage to islands, resorts and public beaches.

My speedboat by Escape to Maafushi didn't have any other passengers till the very last minute. All of a sudden, the entire speedboat filled up and we left 10 minutes late. As we pulled out of the jetty and turned into the Ocean the speedboat, with three powerful Yamaha outboard motors, soon left the Male skyline behind.

We sped past the many islands with water villas and some others where reclamation works were still on. The country is still building infrastructure for more tourists in the future. The drive through the vast expanse of clean water was indeed fascinating.

In about 20 minutes, the speedboat berthed at Gulhi island. All the passengers disembarked, leaving me alone in the boat. In another 5 minutes the speedboat entered the calm, protected arrival jetty of Maafushi island.

The staff of Rosemary Boutique hotel were present there to take me to the hotel. The bag was carried in a battery-operated three-wheeler to the hotel, while I walked the short distance to it. Check-in did take some time as the considerate Isaac, the Mallu, at the reception offered to get me a first-floor room rather than one on the third floor as the hotel didn't have an elevator.

After putting the bags in the room, I excitedly ventured out to explore the island in the blazing sun. Maafushi island is just 1.3 km in length and 0.25 km in width. The island's population is about 4500, with one third of them being foreigners. The island was severely affected by the tsunami in 2004. Being a public island, and inexpensive as compared to most other island resorts in Maldives, Maafushi is the preferred destination for budget travelers like me. Maafushi also has the distinction of being the island with the maximum number of guesthouses in Maldives, not surprisingly. Tourism is the only economic activity in the island, which started in 2012.

A hundred meters from the hotel I came to the bikini beach, which was packed. It was understandable considering that all the other beaches on the island were 'no bikini' beaches. The hotels and restaurants fronting the beach were doing brisk business.

All the beach chairs were taken; the sandy shore had sunbathing bodies almost filled to capacity that reminded me of cans of sardines! There are numerous stalls and shops offering water sports activities and various adventure and tour packages. The busiest seemed to be the Oceanwave Watersports outlet.

Braving the merciless sun and the humidity I walked along the jetty face and came to a group of 8 cockatoos chained on four perches. They were on a screeching match with their sounds piercing the otherwise silent and calm atmosphere of the island.

Very close it the screaming cockatoos was the Folding Hands, an attraction in Maafushi. I could not fathom why the structure was considered a place of contemplation and serenity. By that time, I could no longer bear the heat, and I almost ran back to the hotel room.

After a few hours of rest in the hotel and estimating that the sea breeze would negate the intensity of the heat, I left the hotel to explore the rest for the island. It was indeed pleasant in the evening, and I walked around the island unhurried. It is easy to navigate the island. The southern end of the island is a tourist area: bikini beach, coconut trees walkway, skate park, guest houses and hotels, gift shops, and restaurants are located there. I took them all at leisure. Restaurants and hotels were getting ready for late evening business, setting up buffet counters and entertainment facilities.

I walked along the eastern face of the island to the northern part of the island, where the Maldives prison is located. Along the one kilometer walk I came across a school, the administrative office, a playground, and the central mosque.

What fascinated me was the Maafushi Resource Recovery Centre, a center where all waste and garbage is collected. As I was walking past the facility I came across three-wheelers bringing waste for recycling. Not very far from it is also a noisy electric power plant that is constantly in action. Fortunately, it is not close to residential or guesthouse accommodation. It is estimated that there are about 70 guest houses and hotels on Maafushi.

There were plenty of Europeans and Asians tourists on the island, unlike what I saw in Male. I checked out the airport transfer for the morrow after next at the iCom office and zeroed in on the 12-noon speedboat from Maafushi. I spent the rest of the evening in the bikini beach, fully clothed, ostensibly enjoying the sunset. The bikinied beauties brought home to me the harsh reality of a withered body that refused to obey the commands of the mind. It was indeed sunset time for me.

Later in the hotel, I finalized a snorkeling tour in the forenoon and an adventure tour in the afternoon for the next day. The hotel was quite busy, and I spotted many Mallus among the guests. I had a chicken biriyani dinner in hotel; it was quite spicy and not to my taste. To cool the fire on the palate, I had a biscotti gelato from a restaurant by the side of the bikini beach. The restaurants were brimming with guests and live music bands were on, too.

96 Hours in Maldives - Day 2 - 17 April 2025 - Male

Breakfast was served in the hotel room; the hotel didn't have a separate dining room. From the menu I chose the non-vegetarian option for breakfast, and it was delivered in the room sooner than I expected. It consisted of toast, butter and jam, omelet, chicken sausages and orange juice. That was enough fuel to last the first half of the day.

The Rasfannu artificial beach was where I headed to. On the way I passed the new building of the National Museum, located quite close to the Sultan Park. The building was designed, built and financed by the Chinese government. The National Museum was declared open on Maldives' Independence Day, 26 July 2010.

When I reached the Rasfannu Beach I was taken in by its stunning beauty and crystal-clear waters. It is a popular public beach which offers a peaceful escape from the busy city. It is an ideal getaway for both locals and tourists to relax, swim, and enjoy the sun. With soft white sands and clear turquoise waters, Rasfannu Beach provides a tranquil environment for beach activities and leisurely walks along the shoreline.

It is also known for its picturesque sunset views, making it an ideal location for photography and peaceful moments by the sea. Rasfannu Beach is easily accessible, making it a great destination for anyone exploring Male. There is plenty of seating on the white sandy shore, a wide wooden swing and a couple of raised wooden platforms, ostensibly for anglers. Thoughtfully, the authorities have provided facilities for barbeque and bonfires.

Maldives being a traditional Muslim country, show of affection in public as well as 'bold' dressing are not encouraged. This combined with the absence of publicly sold alcohol keep public places free of nuisance and behavior under control. One doesn't find trash strewn about, defaced public places or people spitting as if their lives depended on it, all things common in India.

The intensity of the morning sun was going up by the minute and sweat made the shirt cling to my body and reveal the ugly bulges. A short walk away from the Rasfannu artificial beach is the Tsunami Monument. It is a freestanding memorial to the victims of the devastating tsunami that struck the Indian Ocean on 24 December 2004 and claimed the lives of 74 Maldivians.

The Tsunami Monument is a beacon of hope after tragedy. The 20 steel spheres encircling the monument symbolize the atolls of the country, while the rising pillars stand for the waves of the tsunami. The names of the 74 victims are carved on the edifice. Kins of victims and tsunami historians pay homage at the monument.

The ferry point to board the ferry to Villingili, aka Villemale, is a leisurely amble from the Tsunami Monument. A bridge is under construction to connect Male and Villingili. Currently, the only means of reaching the Villingili island is the public ferry.

The public transport in Maldives is owned and operated by MTCC. At the ferry counter I bought a ticket for 3.25 MVR, roughly Rs. 18. The ferry ride is barely 7 minutes and the headway between services is about 10 minutes during the peak day time hours. The air-conditioned ferry can take 139 passengers, including crew.

Villingili Island is an ideal place to tearaway from the hustle and bustle of the busy, crowded and narrow streets of Male. As I exited from the ferry station I was confronted by vast expanses of white sand and glistening turquoise blue water, so crystal clear that my heart yearned to jump in and throw abandon to the winds. Mercifully, that was a distraction from the humidity.

The island has only electric vehicles; buses and two wheelers. Surely, that is one more reason why the surreal natural beauty is maintained. Waking about the island I felt that time is not of any concern to those who lived or visited there. There was an 'enjoy the moment' kind of feel in the island.

The natural beaches on the island surrounded by the coconut trees offer a sight to behold and is a different experience from that in Male. The island also has the highest natural elevation in the Maldives, Mount Villingili. It stands at 16.75 ft above sea level. I located the point at a football stadium, thanks to Google Maps!

The East Beach faces Male and is neat and clean. In fact, I found a laminated painting of a nursery school student on the beach that says: Our Beautiful Island, We Keep It Clean. There are small raised wooden platforms where one can sit, calm one's mind and feel the sea breeze in the face. It is a good place to scan the aesthetic skyline of Male. If one has the time, it is the ideal place close to Male to chill, relax and laze around in the tranquil surroundings and let the day pass out. To me it was an experience of surreal beauty, and it left a strong imprint on me.

At the Villingili ferry ticket counter, when I was buying the ticket for the return ferry to Male, I realized that the counter clerk in Male had not given me the correct change. When I reached Male, I took a chance and approached the ticket counter. I explained the incident to the lady manning it. She only asked me when I had bought the ticket. When I told her that it was less than 90 minutes ago, she handed over the amount without any ado. Customer service and trust.

In the bristling heat of Male, I walked from the ferry point to Jetty 6 to book a speedboat to Maafushi the next day at 9.45 am. I walked along the busy roads abutting the commercial port of Male. The traffic, the bustling commerce and friendly banter of the locals shielded me mentally against the exhausting humidity. In time, I spied an ice cream parlor, a heaven sent, of course.

At Tasty Blues, I choose a generous scoop of cheesecake ice cream in a cone. The guy at the counter told me that the ice creams are all made in the factory upstairs and that they are all unique flavors. He told me that their signature flavor is Kashikeyo. The Dhivehi word "kashikeyo" translates to screw pine in English. It refers to a plant commonly found in the Maldives, known for its fragrant leaves and edible fruit. I took my time over the cheesecake ice cream and ventured out into the open yet again to book the speedboat trip for the next day.

Once that was done, I walked back to the hotel and rested for a while, recapitulating the experiences of the morning. The evening was reserved for a trip to Hulhumale. As I hadn't yet taken a bus journey in Male, I opted for that to visit Hulhumale. I bought return tickets from the Airport ferry terminal and boarded the air-conditioned bus from a stop close to it, near the King Salman Mosque.

Male city is connected by road to the Velana International Airport, situated on Hulhule island, by the Sinamale Friendship Bridge, which was constructed by the Chinese and handed over to the Maldivian government in 2018. I experienced traffic snarls on the bridge due to surface movement towards the airport from Hulhumale. A causeway bridges the Hulhule and Hulhumale islands.

The long causeway across the Indian Ocean has solar panels on either side, obviously contributing to clean energy on the islands. Hulhumale island has been developed over two decades in two phases through reclamation using seabed sand. The government hopes to decongest Male city in the near future by moving government offices and residences to the modern, landscaped development in Hulhumale.

I got down at the bus stop in Phase 1 near the Central Park, which is the biggest green open space in Hulhumale. The park is apparently divided into 4 main sectors – a leisure zone, an interactive zone, a recreational zone and a mosque zone with the largest water fountain in the Maldives. At the time of my visit the Vacation Expo was on near the water fountain. Counters had been put up by travel agencies, countries like Indonesia, resorts in Maldives, and airlines. There were stalls selling food and local handicrafts too.

After sauntering around to appreciate the new development, I walked to the Hulhumale public beach, which came highly recommended for a visit. The public beach is a favorite with locals; not many tourists can be seen around the man-made beach. The beach, naturally, was the effect of the reclamation to build the island.

The soft sandy beach and crystal-clear waters offers plenty of options for water sports, swimming, snorkeling and just lazing around. There are quite a few beachfront cafes and restaurants in the public beach. Of course, being a public beach, dressing is expected to be modest.

It was time to head back to Male. I asked around and got to the bus stop that would transport me on the causeway and across the Friendship Bridge to the crowded Male. Before heading back to the hotel, I pared into a souvenir shop to pick up a fridge magnet.

At the hotel, I ordered fish and chips with orange juice for dinner. In the evening, after booking the speedboat to Maafushi, I had spoken to the hotel in Maafushi where I was booked to stay the next two days. The lady took down the speedboat time and assured me that she would get me picked up from the ferry terminal. That done, I reviewed the program I had slated for Maafushi, which brought to an end my Male sojourn.