A Nordic Escapade - The Land of Fire And Ice, Iceland - Impressions - 19 May 2025

 1. The landscape of Iceland is sculpted largely by glacial, volcanic and geothermal activity. Therefore, lava fields, craters, waterfalls, rivers, lakes, gorges, canyons and basalt cliffs predominate the tourist experience.

2. One of the first things a tourist is told on arrival in Iceland is that tap water everywhere in the country is safe to drink. Hotels and guesthouses have this laminated and stuck on walls for attention of tourists.

3. However, the hot water is smelly due to its sulphur content. It does get some getting used to. Perhaps due to this, soap does not foam as much as it does in soft water.

4. Grocery stores and normal merchants' shops can sell only liquor with less than 2 percent alcohol. Regular alcohol is only sold in special liquor stores like Vinbudin, which are not open after 6 pm and are closed on weekends.

5. The three main vendors of fuel are Ob, N1 and Orkan. Prices are more or less the same when you factor in discounts offered by the various fuel companies to its regular customers. The price of 95 octane is about INR 215 per litre and diesel is a bit more expensive.

6. Fuel stations are largely automated. Automated fuel stations normally take pre-authorization on your card for ISK 30,000, which is roughly USD 230. For someone like me, who is not a acquainted with the process, it is alarming the first time over. To be sure, the company charges only for the amount of fuel pumped.

7. Smoking did not seem to be popular among the Icelandic population. This certainly helps in keeping the environment healthy.

8. The people are, by and large, peace loving and engaging. They are calm and seldom argumentative.

9. The Icelandic population is sparse, just 4 million in a vast country where nearly 40 percent live in urban conglomerations like Reykjavik. As against this, the tourist inflow is more than 10 million a year.

10. The crime rate is quite low in the country. In fact, it is said that no car theft has been reported in the country. I gathered that pickpocketing and other tourist related petty crimes are reported at times.

11. The food is expensive and eating in restaurants can burn a hole in your pocket. I economized on this front by carrying muesli, maggi noodles, pasta, etc. If you don't want to do this, one can shop in grocery stores like Bonus and Netto and cook in the accommodation, if it has a kitchen.

12. Entrance to attractions is expensive too. Interestingly, most of the touristy attractions charge a parking fee, depending on the size of the vehicle, and that doubles up as the entrance fee too.

13. Parking fee is normally paid using an app called Parka. Through this app entrance fee can be paid, booking of attractions can be made, payment of toll charge can be organised, Parking fee is divided into four zones, based on the primacy of the location; P1 parking is most expensive while P4 is the least. In a city like Reykjavik, it is virtually impossible to find free parking. However, parking is free between 9 pm and 9 am on weekdays.

14. Public toilets are clean, and they are provided with adequate toilet paper, soap and water. Users ensure that the public facilities are used responsibly.

15. In general, a vacation in Iceland is a costly proposition as compared to even other places in Europe, not to talk of a South Asian vacation. However, self-cooking and staying in guesthouses and hostels can reduce the impact on solo travelers and young couples. I was amazed by the abundance of guesthouses in various parts of Iceland that cater exclusively to tourists.

16. Driving in Iceland is pretty much hassle-free if one follows road rules. The roads are generally single carriageways, decently maintained and exceptionally well sign posted. Speed restrictions are expected to be followed without exception. Traffic cameras identify the deviant, and fines are so steep that people generally follow the prescribed speeds that range between 50 and 90 kph. Another matter strictly enforced is the use of reserved parking slots. Violations are taken seriously and dealt with accordingly.

17. The churches in Iceland are simple and small; nothing fancy or ornate. They are normally Lutheran churches, and each village and small community has one.

18. The basic infrastructure in Iceland is less about grandeur and more about functionality. Whether it is road infrastructure, malls or residential buildings, functionality predominates.

19. In most public places I did not find garbage bins. Nor did I find waste strewn about. I looked for at least a piece of paper or a plastic jacket. What has to be kept in mind is that they are all places that are tourist oriented. Moral of the story is that the culture of cleanliness and public hygiene practiced by the local citizenry rubs off on the visitors too.

20. I did not see any overarching presence of policemen to enforce traffic rules and societal norms. Their quiet efficiency must be appreciated. Exemplary punishments and monetary penalties keep almost all in line.

21. By and large, Icelandic people are friendly and helpful. They do not jump in to help if they find you struggling, but they will wholeheartedly pitch in if you seek their assistance.

22. Pedestrian crossings are sacrosanct, and pedestrian is King. She owns the road. Similarly, villages are also protected by enforcement of speed limits through them, mostly 50 kph and often times 30 kph too.

23. People of Iceland respect nature and their environment. Any action by the authorities that are deemed to go against preservation of nature is vetoed by citizens and even the government cannot overrule them. Thus, in recent times there have been calls to curtail tourism, as this industry is seen to be in conflict with preservation of nature and the environment. Well known tourist sites are shut down for years to guard them against vandalism and damage owing to uncontrolled tourist arrivals.

24. Icelandic people are brought up on a diet of elves and trolls, it is part and parcel of their folklore. While elves are naughty, mischievous and invisible, trolls live in caves and are thought to be half human, half giant. 

25. Icelanders' sagas are a distinct genre of Old Icelandic literature, often considered to be a precursor to the novel. Recurring themes in the sagas include feuds, family loyalty, revenge, and the consequences of social and political upheaval.

26. During the summer months of June and July daylight hours stretch to about 22 hours with the rest reserved for twilight. During the peak winter months of December and January daylight hours are restricted to about three hours. However, wind and rain lead to unpredictable weather conditions.

27. Renewable energy sources contribute almost to be entire requirements of power supply in Iceland. Hydroelectric generation contributes 70% while geothermal sources contribute the balance 30%. 

A Nordic Escapade - Hellissandur to Keflavik International Airport, Iceland - Day 9 - 18 May 2025

The last day in Iceland dawned, or must I say the last night in Iceland never came. Right through the so-called night it never became dark as we are used to in India. It is bright, brighter or brightest in this part of the world in summer. While in winter Iceland gets just 4 hours of sunlight, in summer the roles are reversed with daylight stretching to 21 hours and more. For a tourist, this is great. One can pack in a lot more activities in a day. However, museums and other attractions have fixed working hours.

I scheduled activities on the final day in such a way that I would be able to return the car to the rental company by 8 pm. As things turned out, I got to the rental company an hour earlier. I tried to fill up the tank before returning the car. But the station turned out to be automated. I decided to seek the assistance of the car rental company. At the counter I met Kante who went through the documentation online and said that since I had taken the platinum insurance, I could leave the car as is, without topping up the fuel.

I could not believe what I was hearing. I told him about the email I had received last evening in which I was specifically told to return the car with a full tank of fuel. He said he would take care of that, and I could leave the car at his disposal after unloading the luggage. Kante even got me a luggage trolley to ferry my stuff to the airport. The young man had just saved me over USD 70. Miracles continue to happen and in different ways. Kante turned out to be my Guardian Angel for the day.

To get back to the day's activities. After breakfast of bread and eggs, washed down with coffee, I left the Hostel for the Saxholl Crater, which is located in the Snaefellsjokull National Park. It´s an easy climb of 385 steps over a metal staircase. The staircase looks like a necklace on the slope of the crater. Once you get to the top of the crater you should be careful of each step you take there as round pebbles and lave debris is quite slippery. The view from the top is spectacular, to say the least. One is blessed with incredible views of the Atlantic Ocean and the expansive, dried lava fields of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula.

The Djupalonssandur black sand beach and bay is only 15 km from the Saxholl crater. In times past it was home to sixty fishing boats and was one of the most prolific fishing villages on the Saefellsnes peninsula. However, today the bay is uninhabited. As I walked down from the parking lot to the beach I came across an arch of weathered lava stones that invited me for a couple of photographs. As I stepped on to the beach I came across the four lifting stones that were used by the fishermen of Djupalonssandur to test their strength. The lifting stones varied in weight from 154 kgs to 23 kgs and were traditionally used to qualify men for work on the fishing boats.

On the beach there are remains of the Grimsby fishing trawler Epine that was wrecked there on March 13, 1948. The debris is spread over a fairly large area. Authorities have placed request at many places not to disturb the remains as a mark of respect. The Atlantic Ocean venting its fury on the stacks and cliffs is a sight to behold. The aquamarine waters against the greyish black rocks, one pushing and the other holding their own.

The lighthouse at Malarrif was built in 1917 close to the Londrangar. The newer lighthouse which stands tall at the site now at 20.2 meters also houses the keeper of the lighthouse. In 2003 the lighthouse, along with six others, were declared protected monuments to commemorate 125 years of the commissioning of the first lighthouse in Iceland. The visitor center at Malarrif is a treasure house of information. One can also buy souvenirs and gifts from the center. I walked around leisurely to admire the lighthouse and the imposing Londrangar.

The viewpoint of the Londrangar basalt cliffs is a must visit. They are amongst the many geological attractions of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. After millennia of ocean battering, all that remains of what was once a volcanic crater are two pillars upon a cliff, one 75 meters high and the other 61 meters. They are referred to as 'the rocky castle' considering their dramatic scale and incredible formation. The lands surrounding the Londrangar have never made use of by farmers in the area as elves are rumored to live there.

The Gatklettur or the "Hellnar Arch" is a famous, naturally formed stone arch found between the villages of Arnarstapi and Hellnar on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. The cliffs, the arches the ocean and the birds nesting there provide a fertile ground for amateur and professional photographers. The strange, swirling patterns across the rock itself is a testament to the ocean's constant barrage. It is, without a doubt, one of the most fascinating places in Iceland.

A popular summer tourist attraction is the gorge at Raudfeldsgja. It is a natural formation that and the name Raudfeldsgja Gorge translates to Red-Cloak Rift. The name is inspired by the Saga of Bardur Saefellsas, half man and half troll. While the trek up the mountain is gradual, slippery pebbles warrant a careful step all along the way. The rift is not very big, and a steady stream of icy cold water makes you do multiple hops, steps and jumps on round, slippery boulders before getting to the central portion of the gorge. Skylight filters into the gorge from a large opening above.

The Budir black church is one of the three black churches in Iceland. The exterior wood of the church is painted with pitch, to protect it from the harsh Icelandic elements. The Budir church has been here since 1703, built by a Swedish merchant with his own money. When Budir reduced as a trading post, the hamlet was no longer a parish. Hence, the replacement church was not forthcoming from the church.

Steinunn Lárusdóttir, a widow, petitioned the Danish King and won his permission to build a new black church. When her church was completed in 1848, a plaque claimed that the Budir black church was built without the help of the “Fathers”, in other words, without any help from the Lutheran Church. She was buried in the cemetery adjoining the church and it stands witness to the steely determination of Icelandic women.

The Bjarnarfoss waterfall is a two-tiered waterfall that cascades on magnificent basalt columns. The waterfall is tucked into a picturesque valley of fields and is surrounded by tall mountains, which makes it a beautiful backdrop for photos. The dark basalt columns that form the high cliffs were formed millennia ago by lava flow and through the years, water has carved away at the basalt cliffs behind the waterfall. Intrepid visitors climb so close to the waterfall that they get sprayed by it.

I stayed on the viewing platform to take in the uniqueness of the waterfall and read up the legends connected to her.  One legend tells the story that the Lady of the Mountain, Fjallkonan, stands at the waterfall's base, with the water crashing upon her shoulders. The Lady of the Mountain is a national symbol of Iceland. In fact, it is the female personification of the country itself.

Another Bjarnarfoss legend tells of a rich farmer Bjarni, who turned away a passing stranger who came to him for shelter. The stranger, in turn, cursed Bjarni and his farm, which resulted in his livestock and crops dying. Bjarni went mad and threw away his money into the waterfall's pool, where some say it remains. I was in no mood for a treasure hunt!

Gerduberg basalt columns cliff is hardly noticeable from the road when driving even though the cliff is around 500 meters long and quite close to the road. Hundreds of basalt column stacks stand like an army of pillars in a row. Like the cliff, the columns are also quite regular. Some are even leaning forward, giving the cliff a spectacular view as you walk by the cliff. I walked up a grassy incline to the foot of the basalt columns to enjoy and be super-awed by the magnificence of nature.

With that the activities scheduled for the day was over and all that was left was to return the car to the rental company. From the Gerduberg cliffs I had over 160 km to go for the Keflavik International Airport. When I reached the car rental drop off location I had logged 2490 km on the tour of this wonderful island nation.

A Nordic Escapade - Akureyri to Hellissandur, Iceland - Day 8 - 17 May 2025

It was the longest drive scheduled in a day on the Nordic Escapade. I covered about 420 km driving from Akureyri to Hellissandur via Berserkjahraun. While most of the roads were the usual ones found in Iceland with the maximum speed of 80 kph, there was a tough stretch of about 75 km of gravel roads that had to be taken safely for three reasons. One, the rubble at some places causes the car to skid; two, some drive their vehicles needlessly fast over the gravel road causing gravel to fly, which can cause severe damage to the car windows and windshield; three, serious damage could be caused to the tires by the gravel. It did cost me time because I averaged less than 50 kph over the gravel stretch. My objective was to get to Hellissandur without any damage to the car or self.

Driving to Hellissandur, and thus to the Saefellsnes Peninsula, meant deviation from the ring road. Normally visitors do a day trip from Reykjavik to the Peninsula. I combined it with the ring road experience to also make an overnight halt in the Peninsula. The first part of the drive, before entering the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, the landscape was dull and boring. The monotonous brown hills with vestiges of snow and vast stretches without even a blade of grass is soporific.

All that changes when one enters the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Snæfellsnes is a long and narrow peninsula that sticks out of Iceland into the North-Atlantic Ocean in the west. The peninsula offers dramatic landscapes and examples of most of the natural wonders found in Iceland and is therefore often called “miniature Iceland” or “Iceland in a nutshell.”

The first stop I made after leaving Akureyri was in Berserkjahraun, after driving almost 350 km. Berserkjahraun is a 4000-year-old lava field on the Saefellsnes Peninsula.The name Berserkjahraun comes from one of the Icelandic Sagas, the Eyrbyggja-Saga. According to this saga a farmer brought two berserkers (Norse people who fought with great passion and dvalour) from Sweden to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. He later gave the berserkers to his brother, Víga-Styr, who lived on the other side of the lava field.

One of the Swedes fell in love with Víga-Styr’s daughter and asked for her hand in marriage. Víga-Styr made a deal with the berserker, he could have his daughter’s hand if the two Swedes could clear a path through the lava field, connecting Víga-Styr’s farm to his brother’s. The feat was considered impossible, but the berserkers managed to complete the path quite quickly. Instead of keeping his promise, Víga-Styr had the two Swedes killed and buried near the path made by them. Poignant indeed and it reminded me of a similar dastardly act in Armenia.

A few km from the lava field is the towering Mt. Kirkjufell, which is the most prominent mountain in the Peninsula. The 463-meter free standing mountain is one of the most photographed landmarks in Iceland. The name Kirkjufell means Church Mountain as it is considered to resemble a church. The rather flat mountain next to it, Stodin, is said to resemble a congregation hall.

I had visited so many beautiful waterfalls in Iceland that I decided to give Kirkjufellfoss a miss. On the opposite side of the mountain is the waterfall. The rather plain waterfall with a short drop, I didn't find it worth the time and paid car park.

The Freezer Hostel and Culture Centre where I had booked my accommodation for the night stay in Hellissandur was the funkiest place I have ever stayed on my travels abroad. The Freezer is a multi-award winning recycled and renovated fish factory that now offers art and culture as well as accommodation in stylish apartments and a one-of-a-kind social hostel.

Their goal is to create unforgettable memories, unique atmospheres and outstanding art. The unique hostel mostly has dorm beds and a couple of family rooms. While the rooms have duvets and bed linen, towels are available on payment. The shared kitchen is adequate, and the shared washrooms and toilets are neat and clean. The hostel is situated in a village called Rif, about 3 km short of Hellissandur.

After settling the luggage into the room, I left for Hellissandur to tank up and possibly wash the car. On the way to Hellissandur I had used an automated Olis fuel station and, as it had happened a few days back in Myvatn with the Orkan pump, the equivalent of 30,000 ISK was deducted from my Forex Card. Though the excess amount was refunded, I didn't want to block up such large sums on the Card. Hence, I was keen to find a manned station. At the N1 station, the guy said that I should use either a prepaid fuel card or the card machine. As I wanted to tank up, I left the station in despair.

Back in the Hostel I asked the owner for alternatives. He said I would be able to find one in Olafsvik, a picturesque village about 7 km from the Hostel. There too, the N1 station was closed, and the Orkan station was automated. After a lot of persuasion, the girl in the store at the station agreed to accept the card for payment of fuel. With the receipt issued by the store I approached the pump in anticipation. I scanned the barcode on the receipt and the pump became ready for use. Once fuel for the 5000 ISK was filled, the pump automatically stopped. The fuel station also had a free self-washing facility in the premises. I got that done too. Finally, I returned triumphant to the Hostel and thanked the owner for giving me the right directions.

I had planned to visit a few places in and around Hellissandur. What sounded the most interesting of them was titled 'Murals of Hellissandur'. In a short while, the village of Hellissandur has gained a reputation as the street art capital of Iceland. In the summer of 2018, a team of international artists including Camilo Arias, Ban Pesk, and Luis Rincon were summoned to Hellissandur by Kari Vidarsson, creator of "The Freezer," to transform an abandoned fish factory and several unadorned buildings around town into 30 large works of art.

Each mural is inspired by a local story, from Iceland's only recorded serial killer Axlar-Bjorn to Jules Verne's "The Journey to the Center of the Earth," where a professor, his nephew, and a guide try to reach the center of the Earth through the Snaefellsjokull volcano located a mile and a half from Hellissandur. Walking around the village was an awesome experience. It was indeed heartening to see how the houses and their precincts were maintained. The setting of the village itself was glorious with the blue waters of the Ocean washing against lava rocks.

After considerable time in Hellissandur village I drove to the golden sandy Skadvorsk beach, which is at the northwestern tip of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, Skardsvík is an exceptional natural gem. In stark contrast to the majority of black sand beaches in Iceland, Skardsvík resembles a Mediterranean shoreline.

Its ambience is accentuated by the aquamarine, turquoise water and the surrounding dark, volcanic landscape. Skarðsvík is an excellent example of just how diverse Iceland's landscapes can be. The waves at Skardsvík are renown for being aggressive and hence, visitors are warned not to venture into the sea. It also becomes quite windy. I almost got blown away which standing on top of a rock to capture the beauty of the bay.

I had two more places to visit on my list this evening. But poor road conditions made me call off the visits to Ondverdarnes cape, the westernmost point of the Snæfellsnes peninsula in West Iceland and the Svortuloft lighthouse. While returning rather disappointed I came across the Maritime Museum in Hellissandur which is a window into the history of the fishing culture in Iceland since medieval times. Though closed it was interesting to study the exhibits in the courtyard, particularly what looked like the skeleton of a whale.

The magnificent Snaefellsjokull glacier was the only peak covered in snow. I could see strong winds sweeping across the glacier, possibly leading to the icy winds in Hellissandur. The mountain is one of the most famous sites of Iceland, primarily due to the 1864 novel Journey to the Center of the Earth by Jules Verne, in which the protagonists find the entrance to a passage leading to the center of the Earth on Snaefellsjokull. The mountain is part of Snæfellsjökull National Park.

Before feasting on a Maggi noodle dinner, I packed my bags so that I would not have to repack them at the Keflavik International Airport tomorrow. I had wished for a swig of beer. However, the liquor store is closed over the weekend and what was on sale at the Hostel was double the price of what it is in the store. 

A Nordic Escapade - Myvatn to Akureyri, Iceland - Day 7 - 16 May 2025

One of the things an international visitor has to get used to in Iceland is the smell of water. While it is extensively advertised that tap water is perfectly safe to drink in the country, the smell of Sulphur, particularly in hot water, is difficult to get used to. It feels as if many rotten eggs have been mixed with the water. The water is pristine and perfectly potable, no doubt about that. But, it is the smell.

Last evening when I was checking into the guesthouse, Michael, who was at the reception, told me that the highest temperature last summer had been 22⁰C; today it was 27, the highest in recent times! People were fretting about the high temperature, while acknowledging that it was best for outdoor activities. This morning, too, the weather held up and provided the ideal environment for sightseeing.

The tariff of the Guesthouse included a buffet breakfast between 7.30 and 10 am. The Guesthouse complex has different types of accommodation. The one I was in had private living quarters on the ground floor and five guest rooms with shared toilets and showers, kitchen and living room on the second floor. The Guesthouse breakfast was quite adequate with cereals, breads, jams, cheese, butter, boiled eggs, salami, ham and beverages. I was keen to taste the bread made in the 'underground' bakery. Locals have been baking bread for centuries underground by harnessing the volcanic steam billowing out of the earth. Mývatn’s geothermal bakeries are a collection of holes dug a half meter into the ground and covered with wood, bricks and stones. The rye bread is called geysir bread. Geysir bread recipes are handed down through the generations, and each family apparently has its own. The geysir bread did taste very different, I didn't become a great fan of it.

Before breakfast I did some research on whale watching trips to decide the company and the location. I could either go for the tour from Husavik or Arskogsaandur. Husavik is known as the whale watching capital of Iceland. Therefore, I decided on the Gentle Giants company, that had been operating tours for over 150 years reportedly, from Husavik.

The first stop for the day was Grjotagja, small lava cave, located 15 km from the Guesthouse, on the way to Akureyri. The cave was the result of a fissure in the crust and has a history that added to its charm. Inside the cave is a hot spring consisting of calm, clear, blue water. The history of the cave dates back to the early 18th century when it was inhabited by Jón Markússon, an outlaw who had been ostracized from the local community. Following his death, locals used the thermal spring inside the cave for bathing. This was ended in the 1970s by the eruption of the Krafla volcanic system which to high temperature of the water making it unsafe.

Although the water cooled slightly over the years, the temperature is unpredictable and is therefore no longer safe for swimming or bathing. In Season 3, Episode 5 of Game of Thrones, Jon Snow and Ygritte visited this hidden gem together and introduced the world to its beauty. Since the episode was first aired in 2013, the cave became an extremely popular destination for many fans of the tv show, leading to excessive tourist arrivals and damage and vandalism. The cave was closed to the public by the owners of the private land for many years. The cave has jagged rocks and can be extremely slippery. Therefore, I took my time and carefully walked around, lest I drop into the waters of the cave!

From the awesome tour of the cave, I took the road to a waterfall, about 50 km away. The Godafoss waterfall is one of the most spectacular waterfalls in Iceland. The water of the river Skjalfandafljot falls from a height of 12 meters over a width of 30 meters. The ring road goes past the waterfall, with parking available on both sides of the river. There are paved walking paths to viewing platforms. The history of the waterfall is connected to the conversion of Icelanders to Christianity, when the idols of the Old Norse religion were thrown into the waterfall. And, from that stemmed the name of the waterfall, Godafoss.

Actually, Godafoss is a part of the Diamond Circle, which is a circuit of 250km in North Iceland. The circuit includes some of the most stunning sights and unearthly landscapes. The Diamond Circle has five key destinations, which include the historical and picturesque Godafoss, the unearthly blue and green landscapes of Lake Myvatn nature paradise, the uncontrollable white energy of Dettifoss, the most powerful waterfall of Europe, the crescent-shaped wonder of Asbyrgi canyon and Husavik, the buzzing whale watching capital of Iceland with the deep blue seas ahead.

From Godafoss my next target along the route to Akureyri was Husavik, to experience the whale watching tour. That was another 59 km away, towards the far north. When I arrived into Husavik, the place seemed quite busy, being the weekend. Moreover, the Husavik Wooden Church, almost bang opposite the waterfront, was having a funeral service. Considering the number of people, their apparent stations in life signified by their clothes and vehicles, and the swanky hearse, I surmised that the person who was to be laid to rest was an influential member of the Husavik society. The Husavik Wooden Church, built in 1907, looked every bit as magnificent as a newly built one.

It took me some time to locate a free parking lot, thanks to the gathering in the church. When I did, I walked a few minutes to the waterfront and located the booking office of Gentle Giants. A pleasant girl took my booking and gave me directions on where to report for the 1.15 pm wooden boat tour. The tour would last approximately 3 hours, she told me, as against the quicker speedboat tour. I had time on mybhands and that would save me some precious money too.

The capacity of the wooden boat, Faldur, the young lady guide said, is 45. It has a small viewing platform on top which can accommodate 6 persons at a time. At the time of boarding I counted less than 20 customers for the tour. All of us were given warm coveralls, which we were asked to wear before casting off into the Skjalfandi Bay. A few minutes into the ride and I was wet from head to toe from the sprays and it was cold, too. I moved to a spot in the boat where it was less crowded and protected from the unwanted showers.

The peak season for whale sighting is between May and September. On the tour, the sightings started about an about away from the shore. The guide kept up a lively commentary about the type of whales in the bay, whale habitat, diving habits, the peculiarity of its teeth formation and such like. A couple of humpback whales came up close and almost swam with us for a long time. Though the sightings were not within touching distance as is normally shown in tour photos, the fact that I could see so many dives made the tour worth its while and money.

The weather was good and that was a huge plus during the tour. All of us had certainly looked forward to the whales breaching and hopping. But none of that happened. We had to be content with the distinctive sounds it makes while surfacing and the dives. Anyway, I consoled myself that something is better than nothing. At the time of booking the girl at the counter told me that I would get a free lifetime voucher for another tour in case I was not able to see a sighting on this tour. That eventuality didn't arise, though.

Once the tour was done, I changed gears for Akureyri, which is about 75 km from Husavik. Akureyri is nicknamed the "Capital of North Iceland". It is an important port and fishing centre. The area has a relatively mild climate because of geographical factors, and the town's ice-free harbour has played a significant role in its history. It is said that Akureyri has been settled from the 9th century onwards.

I had booked the B4 Guesthouse in Akureyri. Unfortunately, within Akureyri town Google Maps played truant twice, before I called up the telephone number given in the booking voucher. With clear directions from the person at the other end I soon got to the parking in front of the guesthouse. It is a self-check-in facility. I lodged my belongings in the room and went out for a walk in the town, to imbibe the weekend spirit that was amply evident in the town center.

A small town or village is best explored on foot. Akureyri was no different. I took a stroll through the town centre, basically the Hafnarstaeti and Skipagata streets, stopping to look at a shop here, a cafe or a restaurant there. I got a bit acquainted with the roots of the town, walking through the old town and stopping by what I found arresting or fascinating. Such exploration will give you a glimpse of days gone by.

The second oldest part of Akureyri town is Oddeyri. The place is thought to have been settled in the 13th century, bit became part of teg town in the 19th century. The area is now home to Akureyri’s thriving seafood industry. There are several picturesque houses and buildings there too evoking the history of Akureyri. The Hof concert hall stands majestically beside the harbour. It has a lovely giftshop and a tourist information center, a perfect stop on your stroll along the water. At the time of my visit some kind of get-together was on, and people were out in the sun with glasses of wine and short eats.

Towering above the town center is the Akureyri Church. The Lutheran church, consecrated in 1940, was designed by the famous architect Samulesson and equally decorated sculptors have embellished the architecture and the added to the worshipful ambience of the church.

After the late evening stroll through the town, I sat down at the end of the Hafnarstaeti street near the I Love Akureyri sign, with the church looming right ahead of me. I spent a few moments in gratitude for the wonderful time I had been having in Iceland. While the weather forecast for the time I was to be there was gloomy when I set out from India, what I experienced in the country was totally different. The excellent weather had been a major factor in enjoying the drive through the country. The unseen hand guided me safely past many near misses and ensured that the choices I made were the best and for the best.

On the way to the guesthouse I grabbed a typical Icelandic hotdog, known as the pylsa. The specialty of the Icelandic hotdog is that it is made of lamb, pork and beef in a specific proportion and generously spruced up with finely chopped onions, crispy onions, mayonnaise, mustard and ketchup. I sat down in front of the roadside kisok and took in the awesome stuff as slowly as I could. I wanted the experience to last. It was indeed the icing on the cake, so to say, of the visit to the pretty town.