Exploring Doha and return to Mumbai - Day 4 - 18 August 2014

I had a few more QAR still on the travel card and little incentive to step out for. I requested for a four-hour delayed checkout and was informed that 2 pm is the best they could accommodate. I was planning to leave the hotel by 4 pm, but now plans may have to change. Anyway, with the first half of the day to kill, I took the Gold and Green lines to the Mall of Qatar. Thus, I travelled on all three Metro lines in Doha - Red, Gold and Green. In fact, I used all modes of public transport - Metro, Tram, Bus and Uber - in the city. 

The metro train timings are very generous. Between Saturday and Wednesday, they ply between 0530 and 1159 hours, while on Thursday the metro is available for an hour longer till 1 am. On Friday services are available between 1400 and 0100 hours. While the stations are big and exceptionally well-maintained, passengers totally disregard public announcements inside the train and on the platforms to let passengers getting down to do so before boarding the train.

The metro is not crowded at all to warrant the undisciplined boarding that shocked me. There are checkers at every exit and entry point of the train access gates to ensure that malpractices are avoided and also be of assistance in case any need arose. On one of my journeys, I found a lady train checking staff checking the travel card of every passenger. With heightened security some trains even had police guards in them as a matter of abundant precaution.

The Mall of Qatar is the last station on the Green Line. The metro station is connected to the largest mall in Qatar via a bridge. While taking the bridge from the metro station one can see the Ahmed bin Ali Stadium, one of the host stadiums for the 2022 FIFA World Cup. The stadium is adjacent to the Mall of Qatar.

The mall has a footprint of 465,000 sqm on three floors of absolutely jaw dropping shopping experience. The central glass dome is eight floors high. There were a couple of incidents of fire breaking out during its construction. Fortunately, there were no casualties on both the occasions.

The Oasis, a 30-metre-high atrium, landscaped with tree-like supports and planted beds is the identifying feature of the Mall. The atrium is fringed by numerous cares and restaurants. The centre of the Oasis features the MOQ Live, a professional theatre which hosts live entertainment shows on a 360-degree multi-lift rotating stage. The stage is surrounded by dancing and water fountains.

The Mall offers unmatched shopping experience with year-round promotions, top-notch recreation activities, and remarkable leisure options. The Mall of Qatar boasts retail stores and dining, as well as recreation and leisure experiences for the entire family. All the big names of retails as well as a huge Carrefour outlet draw shoppers and visitors alike.

It was time to return to the hotel to complete the checkout. I had a couple of hours for a light snooze, a bath and final packing. I waited in the hotel lobby for an hour after checking out during when I mulled the option of taking a cab to Msheireb metro station or walking it to Souq Waqif and take the metro from thereon.

It was still hot when I decided to walk to the National Museum metro station, which was against the direction of the sun and, hence, more bearable. It was still tough lugging the baggage and walking nearly a km to the metro station. But, once inside, it was comfortable. In less than 45 I reached the Hamad Doha International Airport, taking the Gold and Red lines. What I was most please about was that I did not waste any money on the travel card, the ride to the airport consumed the final 2 QAR on it.

While waiting to check-in, I met Dileep from Malappuram who was going home on annual leave. His company helped me tide over the time we had on our hands. After immigration and security check we went to explore the Orchard, a green oasis within the airport. The indoor tropical garden is intended to provide a stress-free travel experience, a place to relax, rejuvenate and recharge. It is part of the airport expansion plan that also saw the commissioning of new lounges, too.

Thanks to Dileep I solved a riddle that had plagued me during the trip, that of renting a car in Qatar. He confirmed from a friend, who is part of an off roading club in Doha, that one can obtain a temporary driving permit from the Traffic Police by paying a small fee of around 25 QAR. That mystery solved the trip to the 59th country was well and truly over. I also learnt that the fine for jumping a red light is up to 6000 QAR and can even lead to impoundment of the vehicle and cancellation of license.

At the time of check-in, I asked the Akasa counter clerk if I could get an aisle seat. She said that the entire aircraft would have just 18 passengers and, therefore, I could pretty much sit anywhere I liked! In fact, Dileep told me that in one of his earlier flights, there were only three passengers on board. Don't know how they make ends meet. Naturally, the flight took off before schedule and landed in Mumbai ahead of time at 2.40 am, thereby drawing curtains on my visit to the 59th country.

Exploring Doha - Day 3 - 17 August 2014

I was not sure when the Katara Cultural Village would be open to public on a holiday morning, Saturday being a closed holiday for offices. Moreover, when open, I anticipated that the place would be overrun with visitors, it being a holiday. Getting to the Katara Cultural Village was easy as a breeze.

I took the now familiar walk from the hotel to the Souq Waqif metro station. It is about 800 metres but feels more due to the heat. Fortunately, like yesterday, the humidity was bearable. I changed from the Gold Line to the Red Line at Msheireb and travelled northward and alighted at the Katara metro station.

The metro station is linked to the Katara complex. At that hour, the complex was deserted; it was just getting to be 8.30 am. Cleaning was in progress and not one of the shops in the Katara Plaza was open. But the open air-conditioning made it tolerable to walk around the Plaza, admiring the architecture and the scale of the complex.

Shortly I reached an archway that in some way defined a different section of the complex. A couple of golf carts were parked under the arch and I made my way to one of them and asked for directions to explore the Village Complex. To my surprise, the driver, David, asked me to get on to the cart. He said he would drive me around and show me the features of the Village.

What a heaven sent; it was getting hotter by the minute. He turned out to be an exceptional guide, patient and understanding. He explained that the cultural village, Catara, which was among the first habitations in Qatar, is divided into three segments - the commercial area (Katara Plaza), the main village and the beach.

The main village complex comprises of an open Amphitheatre, Arab postal stamp museum, an opera house, a multi-purpose cinema, a multi-purpose conference hall, a planetarium, exhibition halls, the Golden Mosque, the Blue Mosque, the Doha film institute, Katara Art Centre, Katara art studio, Katara Music Academy, fine dining restaurants, cafes, the Katara Club, the Katara traditional dhow museum and a souq. These lie between the North and South hills that were artificially created from the debris removed while constructing the World Cup stadiums and facilities.

The Katara Amphitheatre is one of the gems of the cultural village, with a seating capacity of 5000. The Amphitheatre has leveraged a balance between the classical Greek theatre concept and traditional Islamic features. It bathes under clear blue skies overlooking a calm blue sea, the Katara Beach. The 3,275 sqm Amphitheatre was officially opened in December 2011.

The Golden Mosque is a spectacular architectural wonder, reflecting Ottoman traditions, providing tranquility and beauty to the village. Studded with golden chips and a visually pleasing design, the mosque shimmers under the golden sun. The Sri Lankan religio greeted me and took me through a six-minute video presentation on Islam. I left after taking in the marvelous beauty of the mosque.

The Blue Mosque or the Katara Masjid is one of the most beautiful Masjids in Qatar. It was designed by the Turkish mosque designer, Zainab Fadil Oglu. Decorated by specialists who restored the Dolmabahçe Palace in Istanbul, the mosque is garnished by turquoise and purple mosaic on the outside and exquisite interior design heavily influenced by Turkish art.

It is said that the interior and exterior architectural designs, together with the minaret, the dome, and the prayer niche (mihrab) are all inspired by several famous mosques found in various cities and capitals of the Muslim world. In addition to these notable aspects, the masjid abounds with artistic handicrafts, such as ornaments, inscriptions, and mosaic tiles.

David told me that the Doha Film Institute will lend you a camera or a drone to indulge your talents for still, video and arial photography. Once done they will transfer the digital creations to a device of your choice. It is their contribution to fostering talent and developing creativity.

The Katara traditional dhow museum showcases the ships used by ancestors in Qatar and the Gulf region for fishing and pearl diving, transport of goods, trade and travel, in addition to the diving tools, boats and the means used by sailors and fishing folks. The method of dhow making is elaborately described and so are the skill sets of people who accompanied sailors on the dhows, such as musicians.

The exhibition of 51 photos of the celebrated photographer, Isa Ebrahim, captivated me. What masterpieces of human emotions and life! His travels around the world gave him the opportunity to translate emotions and daily life to eternity.

The Katara Beach is a natural 1.5 km sandy private beach which is divided into section for the sake of privacy such as children's beach, family beach, dating couples' beach and solo beach. No mixing is permitted, and the individual sections have different facilities too. The beach is ringed by massive hotels like St. Regis. Authentic Lebanese and American restaurant as well as the most talked about Arabian restaurant are all within reach of the beach. David told me that during the peak season queues will form near the restaurants and even in the many attractions.

The Katara Plaza, now called fashionably as 21 High Street, is a 3.8-hectare air-conditioned shopping mall with the latest in style and fashion. The Snan food centre is one of the most unique shopping places I have ever been to. The children's play store is designed like a gift wrapped present. Thus, the buildings and facilities in the Katara Cultural Village are designed to reflect the country's cultural and architectural heritage.

I took leave of David and made my way to the Katara metro station to take a sneak peak of The Pearl. The Pearl Island is a reclaimed area of 4 sq km of upscale residences and shopping experiences with a vibrant marina. It is the first area where freehold was permitted for foreign nationals. I took the metro from Katara to Legtaifiya and from there a circular bus that would take me around the Pearl Island. I got down at Tower 30 and took a walk around to appreciate the magnificence of the island, the facilities there in and the opulence that the property exuded.

After that whirlwind tour I returned to Legtaifiya metro station and boarded a tram for Tarfat South. I expected it to be a normal kind of tram. This turned out to be a high speed underground piloted by a driver. The Tarfat South tram station is a couple of steps from the entrance to Place Vendome.

One of the newest additions to the country’s long list of malls is Place Vendôme in Lusail city, which is the second largest city in Qatar after Doha. This mall exudes grandeur with its palatial setting, exquisite interiors and extravagant architecture.

The 1,150,000 sqm development has two five-star luxury hotels, Le Royal Méridien and Palais Vendôme, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Le Royal Méridien Residences, a mall featuring 560 different retail outlets with an exclusively luxurious wing dedicated to top designer labels, and a central entertainment component showcasing constant attractions. The humongous mall needs sturdy legs to navigate. As I was a bit out of steam, I took the elevator to the third floor and partook of a KFC epic meal for a discount if 10 QAR.

After a brief rest in the afternoon in the hotel room I was ready for a leisurely stroll to the Souq Waqif to have some traditional food and enjoy the sea breeze by the Corniche. Out of sheer impulse I checked out the means to get to the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary, which was the only pending items on my itinerary. I read that the church has a service that evening at 7.

Google maps gave me the option if walking to a bus stop not far away and then take a long ride to near the Church complex. When I reached what looked like the bus stop, I double checked with a shopkeeper nearby. He confirmed that to be the bus stop but also added he had not seen a bus stopping there in a while.

As luck would have it, bus number L532 come around and I confidently strode in and flashed my travel card at the machine. There was no indication that the card had worked, and I asked the driver why it was so. He told me that the Travel Card does not work on Karwa bus service, which it was. I told him that I am on my way to Church. He told me to sit down and that he would drop me at the appropriate place. I expected him to drop me somewhere from where I could take another bus to the Church.

For a long time, I was the only passenger on board the bus. The driver dropped me at the last stop of his bus, the Workers' Health Centre. The ride had lasted nearly 40 minutes and Stephen, my guardian angel, had given me a free hitch to my intended place of worship. He gave me elaborate directions to get to the church. He also told me to take the free shuttle service outside the church to the Free Zone Metro to get back to the hotel.

Stephen took the risk of accommodating a passenger without a proper travel card. He could have been penalized by his Company for the transgression; he still dared. Miracles never cease and they happen every day in our lives. We should be humble and grateful to acknowledge it. I had nothing that I could give him in return for his kindness and hospitality, except the prayers I would say for him and his family in Church. It is people like Stephen who make your life and the country what it is. 

The Catholic Church was in the Religious Complex which had also the Greek Orthodox Church, the Anglican Church, the Syrian Orthodox Church and the Coptic Orthodox Church. The huge complex had an elaborate security system and it was heightened due to the ongoing issues in the Middle East. The large Catholic Church was full, mostly Filipinos and Indians. The service was well conducted, and the choir was excellent. The church interior had superb mosaic works at the altar.

For the ride back home, I got to the metro bus stand. There were three others, including two women, at the stand. As we were waiting for the bus to arrive a couple came up and offered a ride to the metro station. They said they could only take three people. I dropped out and soon the free shuttle came by. 

I befriended Jerome in the bus, who was also going home after the church service. He narrated his work and living experiences in Saudi Arabia as well as different stints in Qatar. Jerome hailed from Sri Lanka and we were together till we parted ways at the Msheireb metro station. I changed to the Gold Line and walked to the hotel from the Souq Waqif metro station. The day's star was most definitely Stephen, but David and Jerome embellished the day's experiences in no small measure. The ways of the Lord are many and splendid.

Exploring Doha - Day 2 - 16 August 2024

I had been weather stunned yesterday and looked forward to a good night's rest in bed. Alas, that was not to be! I got ready to leave early and I had a long program ahead for the day. The weather was better than yesterday, the humidity was lower and the intensity of heat was also less. Therefore, the skyline of the Bay was clearly visible this day. The walk from the hotel to the Doha dhow harbor took me about 20 minutes. There was a ferry loading for the Banana Island, mostly with employees of the resort and spa.

The dhow harbor was the centre of fishing and pearling in the first quarter of the 20th century. Between 250 and 300 boats used to be moored there then. Dhows are built of hardwood planks sewn together with ropes. They were ubiquitous across the Indian ocean and were the most popular trading vessels. They differed in shape and size depending on the region. Traditional Qatari dhows are double masted with triangular sails.

The Pearl Monument at the entrance to the dhow harbor is situated on Corniche Street. The fountain sculpture depicts a giant open oyster presenting a massive pearl in its mouth. This fountain, which lights up at night, provides an ideal photo opportunity while paying homage to Qatar’s pearling history. While oil made Qatar rich, the Gulf nation hasn’t forgotten its seafaring roots.

Prior to the discovery of oil in 1939, pearling was one of Qatar’s primary revenue streams. Besides the gamble it was, as only one in ten thousand oysters contains a pearl, the divers were constantly threatened by the proximity of barracudas, sharks and sea snakes. Moreover, diving took a huge toll on the driver's body too.

The Doha Corniche is a seven-kilometer waterfront promenade that links the historic south of Old Doha to the modern central business district of Al Dafna at the northern end of the crescent shaped Doha Bay. The promenade has wide pedestrian walkway right along the waterfront and a two-lane bicycling track on the inside. Rental bikes and scooties are available at intermediate locations for hire.

The Corniche is a lush green, semi-circular, palm ringed public space that serves as the central location for national celebrations. The Qatar National Day Parade and National Sports Day are held at the National Day Deck. Various religious, civic, and sporting events are also held here making it one of the most popular tourist and recreational destinations in Qatar.

Along the Corniche are many viewpoints that offer superb photo opportunities. Not far from the Pearl Monument is a lasting tribute to the Football World Cup hosted by Qatar in 2022. Flagpoles of the 32 nations that competed for the World Cup line the access to where the World Cup symbol is on permanent display. The deck is a good place to spend time, provided the weather is good.

The World Cup symbol was designed by Unlock, a studio based in Lisbon, Portugal. The symbol also appears similar to the infinity symbol, which is meant to represent the “interconnected nature” of the world cup and undulations of sand dunes. Moreover, the similarity with the number eight is meant to highlight the number of stadiums being used for the event.

One of the most prominent buildings one can notice on a Corniche Walk is the Amiri Diwan, which is the administrative office of the ruler of Qatar, the Emir. It represents the figurative and bureaucratic center of the country. The Emir is assisted by the Deputy Emir and the Prime Minister, who also function from the same building.

The Al Bidda park was formerly known as the Al Rumaila Park was created in the 1990s and is one of the oldest parks in Doha. The huge lung area overlooks the Corniche and the Doha Bay. Well laid out walkways, manicured gardens, children's play area, lush lawns and abundance of car parking make it one of the sought-after parks in Doha. The Park was closed for four years between 2014 and 2018 for renovation. The Arches of Rumaila is an interesting piece of architecture in the park grounds.

By the time I reached the Arches of Rumaila I was exhausted and dead beat. I lay there in the shade for a while to recharge. I managed to walk to the 2006 Asian Games Mascot statue on the Corniche and virtually collapsed. My legs refused to move anymore. An Arabian oryx called Orry served as the mascot of the 2006 Asian Games. The colors used for the mascot represented Qatar's landscape; yellow, the crescent-shaped sand dunes of the desert, blue the calm sea of the Gulf and red the sun and warm spirit of Asia. The mascot was unveiled on the waterfront on 1 January 2005 symbolising the start of the countdown to the Games.

With my body almost in a state of collapse I had to get a Uber ride to get to the Tornado Tower, which is the tenth tallest building in Qatar. It is 52 floors of office space in the modern part of Doha city at one end of the Doha Corniche. The Canadian and Australian embassies are based in the building. I had hoped to get a ride to the top of the building to enjoy a view of the Corniche and the surrounding skyline. The security guard politely told me that access within the building is restricted because of the high-profile nature of the occupants of the magnificent building.

My body just wouldn't cooperate with me any further to walk to the metro station. I had to hail a Uber once again to get back to the hotel room. Both my Uber drivers are from Pakistan. They were so polite and friendly that I held up a conversation throughout the rides. The one who dropped me at the hotel was hesitant to take the fare as he said that I am a visitor to the country. Both the drivers felt that Doha is better than Dubai for business. However, they both voiced that business has been dull over the past two years, after the World Cup.

The Villagio Mall is in the outskirts of the city and mercifully it is connected by the Gold Line Metro. I took the metro train from Souq Waqif station and alighted at the end of the line in Al Aziziyah. Housed on a massive plot of 360,000 sqm, with a built-up mall area of 183,000 sqm the Mall is humongous. It has, on an average, 50,000 footfalls a day, toting up over 1.5 million a month. This is testimony to the unrivalled Villagio experience. It meets the demand of every type of viator.

Villaggio is the most sought-after destination in Qatar for top-of-the-line luxury brands including Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Gucci, Valentino and Dolce and Gabbana. Its Venetian styled interiors combined with an astonishing range of shopping, dining and entertainment venues make it a unique and unforgettable attraction. The gondola ride in the Aspire Lake within the Mall is something to die for.

The Aspire Tower, also known as The Torch Doha, is a 300-meter-tall skyscraper hotel, a stone's throw away from the Villagio Mall. It was the focal point during the 2006 Asian Games. It is currently the second tallest tower in all of Qatar, having been surpassed by the Lusail Plaza Tower in 2023. It is also said to the tallest external screen in the whole world.

Just beside it is the main venue of the 2006 Asian Games, the Khalifa International Stadium. The massive, fully roofed, multi-purpose stadium can seat over 45,000 spectators. Opposite the Khalifa International Stadium is the separate Women's stadium, a dome shaped structure. All these families come within the Aspire Zone or Doha Sports City.

The last stop for the day was Msheireb Downtown Doha. It stands as a testament to the city's commitment to redefine urban living. It is a thriving urban haven, designed to nurture living, leisure, and business in perfect harmony. Its coveted location makes it an exemplary destination for retail, commercial, residential, and civic services.

Msheireb Downtown Doha boasts of an entire city district where all buildings are either Gold or Platinum LEED-certified, setting the highest standard for green building services. It is also the holder of a Guinness World Record for the largest underground car park, featuring 10,017 spaces. The achievement was officially recognized on May 12, 2024. Msheireb Downtown Doha embraced advanced technology features in its infrastructure and services to cater to the evolving needs of future generations. The tram services are a useful addition to the Downton infrastructure service.