It was an early start to the day; intention was to get to Taipei with as much time on hand as possible to complete the schedule planned for the last day in Taiwan. Last evening, I had confirmed from the hotel in Taipei that I could leave the luggage in the hotel and later check in as per the rules of the hotel. I anticipated the long weekend rush in the MRT stations. It was busier than usual and I changed two MRT trains from the hotel to the THSR terminal in Zuoying.
At the THSR ticket counter the clerk suggested a fast train that was leaving in 10 minutes. I didn't go for that and sought out a train leaving in 30 minutes. I purchased a reserved ticket for the 7.15 am train no 206 to Nangang that would get me to Taipei THSR station at 8.54 am with additional stoppages at Tainan, Taichung and Banqiao. The train set was already at the platform when I reached there. A couple of staff could be seen going around cleaning the coaches. Gauging from what they got down with from the train, it could be assumed that the users don't litter the coaches and used the facilities responsibly.
The seats have excellent leg room and there is adequate space for luggage too. However, one thing that perplexed me that there were no charging points. The train left right on time and from Tainan all the seats in the coach was taken. Enroute the train attained a top speed of 290 kph. Had it not been for the display in the train I would not have guessed the speed, the ride was that smooth. The train rolled into Taipei HSR station at the appointed time of 8.54 and that is punctuality for you.
My reservation was at the Guide Hotel Taipei BaDe. Hopping two MRT trains I got to the hotel without much hassle. The stern person at the reception tagged my bag for safekeeping. He didn't budge a bit from the appointed check-in time of 3 pm. With over 5 hours before the check-in I decided to cover as much of the day's schedule as possible till then. I thought it better to cover the farthest point in the itinerary first, and that was the Beitou Thermal Valley.
I took the Green and Red Lines and a branch line to travel nearly 20 km and reached the heritage Xinbeitou station. Once there I went to the visitor information centre to confirm the places to visit there. The kind ladies there explained the walking tour to see most of the attractions in the area culminating in the Thermal Valley. They also suggested that I take a tour of the Yangmingshan National Park to see the lilies in bloom. I decided that that would be last priority.
The six-hectare Beitou Park is situated along the central part of the Beitou River and is within close proximity of the Xinbeitou MRT station. The Park has a hot spring education center, hokutolite conservation area, indoor and outdoor bathing springs, etc. One of the highlights at the park is a series of five small waterfalls, with hot spring pools at each of the falls. The well-planned hot spring area is also an excellent spot to fully enjoy a spring bath. Another Park attraction is the Plum Pavilion. Built during the latter part of the Japanese occupation period, the tree-shaded pavilion offers a cool spot to relax. The pavilion has been designated by the Taipei City Government as a historic building.
The Beitou Museum is housed in a public hot spring bath built during the Japanese colonial era. The building has a brick and wood facade and black tile roof set picturesquely in the surrounding greenery. The building had fallen into a deep state of disrepair when local preservationists saved it from demolition. Admission to the Museum is free and gives one an excellent feel of the importance of the area and about the benefits of hot water springs and the healing properties of the Hokutolite stones.
I was eagerly looking forward to reaching the Thermal Valley which is referred to by locals as Hell Valley due to the acidic sulfur hot springs in the area. The mineral water contains Plaster, Alunite, Jarosite, Realgar, Sulphur and Radium. One can walk around the lake with undulating heights and immerse in the lush scenery of mountain, mist and spring.
The green sulphur spring can wash away one's worries and relax the body and mind, it is said. The rare green sulphur spring of the Thermal Valley is popularly known as the Jade Sulphur Springs. It is supposed to be good for the rejuvenation of the bones and muscles. However, my mind automatically compared the Thermal Valley to the Rotorua geothermal experience in New Zealand. The former fell drastically short of expectations.
I returned to the Xinbeitou MRT station for the ride back to Beitou and thereafter to the end of the Tamsui MRT line. I walked to the start of the Tamsui Old Street from the MRT station and looked around for a restaurant that would serve me a vegetarian hot meal. I found a steak house which had noodles on its menu. I asked for the soup and a portion of vegetable noodles. The pumpkin soup was glorious. I was tempted to ask for another helping but was held back by the noodles plate that was yet to arrive. When it was served, I was sure that they had misunderstood my order because it had, what looked like, meat and fish. The waiter assured me that they were mock meat composed of vegetables. It was a first for me, tasted really good.
The Tamsui Old Street is divided into the inner and outer side. The outer street is the golden anchor walkway of Tamsui river coast, while the inner side is a traditional old street lined with bustling shops. I was consumed by a sea of people, both locals and tourists.
The long weekend had brought most people outdoors to enjoy this lively area. There are numerous traditional pastry shops, groceries and stores selling trendy outfits and toys. I picked up a few knickknacks at a bargain. There was so much of food, fresh as well as dried and packed, ice creams and desserts and what have you. The area so captivated me that I spent more time there than I have originally intended to.
Last in my list for the area was the Fisherman’s Wharf, formerly known as Tamsui Second Fishing Port, which is located in the mouth of the Tamsui River. The idea was to take a passenger ferry from the golden anchor walkway to the Fisherman's Wharf. Sadly, the services were suspended. Wondering what to do I googled and found a solution. A short, but steep, walk away was a bus station that could give me a ride to the Fisherman's Wharf. I waited a while before the bus arrived and took the long ride to the wharf.
The Fisherman's Wharf is dominated by the Fullon Hotel, the floating fishing boat docks, Lover's Bridge and the Fish Market. I walked along the wooden boardwalk to enjoy the beautiful fishing port. I ascended the Lover's Bridge to enjoy the Tamsui landscape. The 165 meters long famous “Lover’s Bridge” is the landmark of Fisherman’s Wharf. The single-sided cable-stayed bridge that resembles a white sail spans the wharf and connects the boardwalk and the fish market. The evenings here are said to be glorious to enjoy the sunset.
At the Tourist Fish Market tourists can choose the fresh catch of the day and hand it to the stores to have them prepared. There are also shops that sell various kinds of creative gifts and art street. The wooden boardwalk and embankment cafes along the shore are also favorite spots for young lovers. One thing must be said about that, though. One will not see any public show of affection in Taiwan. In fact, it is a rare sight to come across people smiling or laughing.
Fullon Hotel neighbors the Fisherman's Wharf; it resembles a giant cruise ship. Together with the tall rotating observation tower, “Lover's Tower,” it has become the local landmark and popular check-in spot. The top of Lover's Tower, which is a hundred meters in height, is said to offer an excellent 360-degree panoramic sea view of Fisherman's Wharf.
That brought to an end my Easter Tour of Taiwan. I took the bus back to the Tamsui MRT station and changed lines at Zongshan station to get to my hotel. It was a long ride and the trains were crowded too. By the time I reached the hotel the room was ready for occupation. It was well past five pm. The legs had become weary and the muscles had started to ache. I didn't have the legs to explore the Shilin night market and I left it for another trip, perhaps.
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