Exploring Central Vietnam - 17 May 2023 – Da Nang To Hoi An

As I had paid the room rent at the time of checking in and the tour fees as and when it was done the checkout was done quickly. The stay in Avora Hotel had been comfortable, but I was not very happy with the room cleaning service. It was always done in a hurry after 3 pm, even when I had left instructions for the room to be done early. The towels were changed every day, but they never made up the bed. Despite all that I must say that the location is unbeatable, the hotel is value for money and the front office staff are helpful and always smiling.

The Grab Taxi I had booked for the journey from Da Nang to Hoi An arrived within five minutes. For the most part of the 40 minute drive to Hoi An the road was parallel to the sea and the new commercial and residential developments on either side of the road told a tale of the growing prosperity of the Vietnamese as well as demand from expats. The coastline looked gorgeous with white sand and blue waters. I am pretty certain that more new beaches will open up for commercial exploitation in the coming years.

As compared to Da Nang, Hoi An seemed just an overgrown village, with narrow streets and rural environment. I normally use booking.com to source during my travels. This has been my practice since 2014, when I made the road trip from Cochin to London. Over the years I have come to rely on the recommendations of booking.com, even though I have had a couple of ‘not so happy’ experiences too. But, they have been few and could be overlooked.

This time too, for the eight nights in Vietnam I relied on booking.com. If I had been pleasantly surprised with the choice in Da Nang the accommodation in Hoi An floored me. Little Town Villa, close to the Old Town, was just what I wanted. Quiet, hospitable, clean and aesthetically pleasing. The location of the accommodation was a big plus. Even though the weather was incredibly hot, even for the locals, the attractions of Old Town and the shopping were just footsteps away.

When I completed the formalities for check-in I was told that my room would be ready around noon, which meant I had a couple of hours to kill. The accommodation provided free cycles to its residents if they chose to use them. I borrowed one and went for a long ride despite the heat. One cannot get lost in Hoi An. Despite the unchartered ride, even crossing the Thu Bon River, I got back to the hotel like a homing pigeon, albeit drenched in sweat.

Hoi An is best explored either by foot or cycle. The large number of tailoring, leather goods, handicrafts, souvenir shops and eating joints amazed me. The entire UNESCO World Heritage Site was swarming with tourists, a tenth of whom I didn't see in Da Nang. The popularity of Hoi An is certainly on the rise.

Back from the cycling trip, energy sapped and sweat dripping from every pore, I dropped the bags in the room on the second floor and took a long shower. That cooled me down temporarily. I was loathe to go any place fancy in the hot weather for lunch. Fortunately, the receptionist told me that a no-frills restaurant was available within three minutes of the hotel.

The Hoang Com Ga is a small restaurant run by a hospitable couple. They served local food and it had a decent menu, in English. While the wife took down the orders the husband was the chef. I started with a chilled beer, Bia Saigon, a local favourite. I had a full plate of chicken rice with a lot of veggies. When I finished the meal that, like Tre Viet in Da Nang, I would be having most of my meals in Hoi An at this small restaurant.

Situated on the banks of the Thu Bon River, the city was a major trading port between the 16th and 19th centuries, and this history is reflected in its architecture and culture. Hoi An's ancient town is characterized by narrow streets, traditional shophouses, and Chinese-style pagodas. Almost the entire Old Town is only a walking and cycling street. If one gets a ticket for the Old Town entrance to five attractions are free. One can wander at peace, window shop and bargain for what they fancy.

Garments, bags, suitcases, lanterns, shoes, lacquered wood and scarves are popular with tourists. After the first purchase I realised how hard one has to bargain. It would be best to start with 50 percent of what the shopkeeper initially quotes. Invariably, the deal can be closed at about 60 percent of the quoted price. Another matter to come to terms with quickly is the Vietnamese Dong and its conversion rate. Every quote is in hundreds of thousands and millions. It is so very easy to miss out on the zeroes and pay more than what one actually should.

One of the most historic landmarks in Hoi An is the Japanese Covered Bridge, which dates back to the 16th century. This covered bridge was built to connect the Japanese community with the Chinese community and is adorned with intricate carvings and a small temple. The bridge, which spans a small canal, is notable for its unique architectural style, which combines Japanese and Vietnamese design elements.

The Japanese Covered Bridge is a popular tourist attraction in Hoi An and is considered to be one of the town's most iconic landmarks. It has undergone several renovations over the years, but has retained much of its original charm and character. Tourists aggregate around here late evening for romantic boat rides and to float lanterns, as a mark of offering and good luck, in the canal. The row boats are of different sizes and motorised boats are not permitted in the area close to the Japanese Bridge. 

Hoi An is also famous for its lanterns, which light up the city at night. The number of visitors at the Japanese bridge at night floored me. I took a boat ride along the canal to appreciate the lanterns from a different perspective and capture the sheer beauty of the awesome city.