Exploring Central Vietnam - 20 May 2023 – Memories Land, Hoi An

The last full day in Vietnam dawned. It has been a wonderful week in the country, despite the searing heat and humidity. The stay was all the more enjoyable because of the hotels I got to stay in. I prefer not to stay in star hotels, but in those that give me a homely feel with hospitable staff. The Little Town Villa is a revelation and I will, unhesitatingly, recommend this place to any budget traveller to Hoi An. They have 13 rooms on two floors, of which two are family rooms. The swimming pool is quite busy, given the weather. Seeing a couple of families in the pool all the time I wondered if they had come for the pool experience or for those in the city.

After breakfast I took a stroll to the Old Town to take in the sights and smells one more time. At that hour, expectedly, tourists were few and shopkeepers were dusting their wares and displaying them hoping for good sales. The small prayer place every shop has was being filled with offerings and many stood in prayer before them with lit agarbattis in their hands, genuflecting repeatedly in prayer. What a place this area of the city would have been in the centuries past, bustling with trade and politics, Chinese, Japanese and the Vietnamese! The old houses of the aristocracy are heritage places to visit. Vietnamese Communism was established in one of the houses here in 1930 and it too is a marked place of visit.

The incredible heat soon drove me back to the air-conditioned comfort of my hotel room. The rest of the morning I used to pack the bags for the return travel to Cochin. I had bought a suitcase in Da Nang and leisurely stuffing that took me to lunch. I did not have stomach for a full meal and I gravitated again to the restaurant near the hotel for a ham and cheese sandwich. Interestingly, the sandwich cost me almost double that of a local dish like Cao Lau!

I only had one more on my plate to be done on this holiday. And, that was the Hoi An Memories Show. I made the reservation for the show from the hotel. The Little Town Villa, the comfortable hotel I was lodged in, is so central that I did not have to hire any transport for visits to the Old Town or the Memories Land Show. The eTicket entitles one to enter the Resort, where the show is held between 8 and 9 pm, at 5 pm. The resort part of the huge complex, reached via an iconic bridge across the Thu Bon River, is closed to the public, except during the show timings.

The theme park is divided into four main parts, the Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese Villages and Central Park. From 5 pm to 7 pm there are mini shows in each of these theme locations, showcasing folklore and history. There are plenty of food joints to flavour local cuisine at reasonable prices. There is enough to hold your interest till the main show starts at 8 pm.

From a half past 7 people start entering the open air stage in search of the appropriate place to watch the show uninterrupted. When I was handed a poncho at the entrance to the gallery I thought that at some stage the spectators would be asked to where it to avoid the full blast of a water spray. Later I came to realise that the poncho distribution was a promotion of the company and the product!

The major spectacle, the Memories Show, is recognized as on par with an Olympic Games opening ceremony or a national day celebration. The show’s scale alone is astounding with over 500 actors and dancers taking to Vietnam’s largest outdoor stage, spanning 6 acres (25,000 square meters) on the island in the Thu Bon River. The spectacular show is a throwback on 400 years of Hoi An history made up of 5 segments on a grand scale. The harmonious blend of music, lighting, visual arts and performing arts takes one through an unforgettable experience. Modern staging techniques, lighting technology and audio effects are a feature of the show.

The five segments of the show start with Hoi An’s memories of the dawn of time, represented by the birth of a child to a couple in a fishing village. The graceful serenade of women in traditional Vietnamese dress and hats is a highlight of this segment. The second segment showcase the diplomatic story of the historical wedding of Princess Huyen Tran and King Che Man. The grand stage in which an elephant comes on stage recreates a golden past.

The third segment recreates a Hoi An in transition using the ships and the sea. The theme is about the storms the brave sons of Hoi An are willing to face for the prosperous future of the country. Despite braves face all with confidence keeping in mind the immortal love of the faithful Hoi An girls. The next segment is about the transition of Hoi An into a bustling port town with its unique cultural identity in the face of multicultural interfaces. The last segment is about the ups and downs that Hoi An faced over the years and yet remaining a peaceful, poetic and gentle land; as gentle as the Ao Dai (traditional dress that is calf length and hugs the body) of a Vietnamese girl.

Exploring Central Vietnam - 19 May 2023 – Eco Cooking Tour, Hoi An

The Eco Cooking Class and Basket Boat Tour were the activities I had chosen for the morning. This is one of the recommendations while you are in Hoi An. I had booked this tour too through the hotel. The pickup arrived after breakfast and I was transported a short distance to meet the chef and guide, Phuong, near a local market. Our group consisted of seven ladies and self. The guide took us to a local market where she explained the main ingredients in Vietnamese cuisine. She schooled us how to choose fresh ingredients for the cooking class.

One of the highlights of the tour is that you can gain an insight into Vietnamese herbs and spices. Phuong mentioned that local markets open at 4.30 am and fresh produce is available day after day. She taught us how to select fresh meat and fish and explained the difference between the land and water grown morning glory. While we were in the wet section of the market one of the tour members felt nauseous and dropped out!

After the market trip we were transported to the Cam Thanh, or Bay Mau, Coconut village, about 3 km outside Hoi An. According to locals, Cam Thanh coconut forest has existed for about 200 years. Migrants from the Southwest region are said to have brought nipa palm, or mangrove palm, and planted them in this area. With abundant water and soil, the trees gradually proliferated, growing into a large forest of about 100 hectares.

We transferred to unique circular bamboo basket boats, two to a boat, to explore the beauty of Bay Mau coconut forest, also called the Mekong Delta in the heart of Hoi an. Besides boating and exploring the mangrove biome the boatman taught us how to fish for mud crabs. The 30 minute boat ride ended with the boatman expertly twirling the circular boat as fast as the occupants had the stomach for. Shrieks and shouts rent the air.

It was now time for the cooking class. We were made to scrub our hands and wear an apron and hat. Phuong first made us skin a tomato to make a rose. I took my own time, but made a decent job of it. We set that away and concentrated on the next task. We were assigned a place each at a long table. Phuong explained the ingredients in the three bowls that were kept in our places. One was for making a salad, another for rice paper rolls and the last for fish curry.

Following her instructions we plied the bowls with ginger, garlic, spring onion, pepper, fish oil, soy sauce, sugar, chicken powder, etc. her instructions were unique. For instance, if she said one, zero, two for any ingredient it meant that we were to drop one teaspoon of it into the first bowl, zero in the second and two in the third.

Once we had completed adding the herbs and spices into the bowls we were asked to transfer the items in the first bowl to a salad dish. We mixed the salad thoroughly with chopsticks and set it apart. Then Phuong showed us how to roll a rice paper with the stuffing. After the demonstration I took the rice paper and rolled the marinated spring onion, chicken and shrimp as I had seen her doing. I thought I made a pretty decent job of it. Next came the single burner cooking stove; each was given one of the butane fired stove with a pan full of cooking oil.

When the fire was turned on the temperature in the hut went up exponentially. I had to fetch a two litre bottle of chilled water to cool down. By then I had started feeling a bit uneasy with the dehydration. Nevertheless, I deep fried the rolls as Phuong instructed and set them aside. We took up the third bowl with the fish. The ingredients were given a thorough mix, particularly ensuring that the tomatoes were placed beneath the fish so that the fish does not get burnt during cooking. That was left to marinate for about 15 minutes. Then we were given a bowl of rice milk with pork and sprouts. The mix had to be poured evenly in the pan that had hot cooking oil. While spreading the mix evenly was a challenge a bigger one was when Phuong asked us to toss it after one side was done.

Phuong told us to take our salad, fried rice paper rolls and crispy pancake to the table and start the meal while the fish was cooking on the fire. We went about relishing the meal we had cooked and I thought I had made excellent rice paper rolls. The shrimp and chicken had cooked well and it was very tasty. But, the best was the fish. When that arrived at the table I was taken aback by the texture and the taste. I had beaten my expectations by a mile. It was awesome.

After the cooking class and lunch was done we were transported back to the accommodation in the pickup. The weather had drained me and I took a short nap after a shower. In the evening I walked down the street of the Old Town and came across a shop where large number of people had queued up for a cool drink. Using Google Lens I ‘discovered’ that what was on sale is Hoi An special herbal water, infused with Lotus, Ginger, Lemongrass, Cinnamon and Lemon. I stood in line and finally got my hands on the ‘elixir’; a very cooling concoction served in a paper cup with a couple of lotus leaves and a bamboo straw.

Exploring Central Vietnam - 18 May 2023 – My Son Sanctuary from Hoi An

The bed was comfortable and the rest was complete. The accommodation provides a buffet breakfast for its residents. There were plenty of fruits – mangoes, dragon fruit and pineapple – local delicacies and eggs and bacon. After feasting heartily I was ready for the group tour to the My Son Sanctuary, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I had arranged the trip through the hotel. I picked up from the hotel at a quarter to eight for the tour.

The tour guide was the ebullient Youm, who used his stentorian voice to explain the significance of My Son Sanctuary and its ‘rediscovery’ in the 20th century by French explorers. Youm also explained how the hot weather would impact us and that we should constantly hydrate ourselves. The My Son Sanctuary is about an hour's drive from Hoi An, to its South-West. The conservation site is about 1160 hectares.

Once we reached the parking lot of the Sanctuary we had to present our tickets at the entrance and walk a short distance to the battery operated golf cart shelter, from where we were taken a fair distance into the Sanctuary to begin our tour ‘exploration’ by foot. My Son was a place of worship between the 4th and 14th century, built by the the Champa Kings, an Indianised kingdom of the Cham people, whose capital was Tra Kieu, about 10 km from the Sanctuary. The temples were dedicated to Lord Shiva. In the various temples Lord Shiva was venerated under various names, of which the most important was Bhadreshvara.

The unmistakable spiritual influence of Indian Hinduism is evident from the ruins of the towers and halls in the Sanctuary, which was lost to civilization for over 400 years before it was rediscovered by the French in the 20th century. Besides being a place of worship it was also a burial place for the Cham Kings. It is believed that the complex had more than 70 temples. The unique construction methods have stunned the best researchers and even to-date the technique of baking the bricks, bonding and weather proofing them have not been uncovered.

The site was extensively bombed by the Americans during the Vietnam War, suspecting it to be a hideout of the Viet Cong rebels. The ruins of the Sanctuary have ample evidence of the scripts, adornments, deities, hairdos, customs and culture of the times as well as the influence of its westerly neighbour, India, which, since 2015, has been involved in the restoration process of the site through the Archaeological Survey of India. My Son is not even half as impressive as Angkor Wat, but remains an important link in the spread of Hinduism in the years gone by. 

A 15 minute cultural show, which showcased traditional Cham folk art, rounded up the visit. The weather was oppressive. However, the excellent infrastructure and the support systems of restaurants, resting places, WCs and paved walkways was a revelation. The promotion of tourism in Vietnam harnesses local entrepreneurship and relies on their innate hospitality, integrity and discipline.

At the exit of the site, near the ticket office, is the My Son Museum, where one can get general information about the My Son relics and culture. Many posters and pictures explain the history of My Son Sanctuary and compare it to the other Indianised archaeological and religious sites in Indonesia, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar and Cambodia. Of particular interest to me was the detailed explanation and description of the scientific principles of temple construction; vastushastra in practice.

The last stop at the Sanctuary was the restaurant, where the tour operator had arranged lunch. Sitting within the restaurant was a relief from the sweltering, energy sapping weather. The restaurant had many jars of infused wines for sale. Popular amongst them were guava, potato, grapes and beeswax infused wines. After some much needed rest and a meal of noodles, the group was transported to a jetty to continue our journey to Hoi An by boat.

The Thu Bon River is not very imposing, but is one of the major rivers in Vietnam and has played an important role in the history and culture of the region. The river is approximately 124 kilometers long and has a drainage basin of 10,350 square kilometers. It has been an important transportation route for centuries, with boats and barges carrying goods up and down the river. The river has also been an important source of fish and other aquatic resources for the local population.

During the Cham dynasty (7th-17th centuries), the Thu Bon River was an important trading hub for goods from China, India, and other parts of Southeast Asia. The river was also the site of several important battles during the wars between the Cham and the Vietnamese dynasties. In the 17th century, the Thu Bon River became an important center of the Vietnamese silk industry.

The river's fertile floodplain provided ideal conditions for growing mulberry trees, the leaves of which were used to feed silkworms. The silk produced in the region was highly prized and exported throughout Southeast Asia. During the Vietnam War, the Thu Bon River was an important transportation route for both the North Vietnamese Army and the Viet Cong. The river was also the site of several major battles, including the Battle of Hoi An, which took place in August 1972.

The Old Town of Hoi An is like a magnet; I get drawn to the markets, quaint shops and restaurants, the walking street, bright lanterns and the Japanese Bridge. With the weather being hot and humid, business looked dull. After wandering a while I got back to the Hoang Cam Go restaurant for a couple of bottles of chilled Bia Saigon beer. I ordered a portion of Cau Lau, the Hoi An speciality. It typically consists of pork and greens on a bed of rice noodles which is made from rice that has been soaked in lye water, which gives it a very unique taste.

Exploring Central Vietnam - 17 May 2023 – Da Nang To Hoi An

As I had paid the room rent at the time of checking in and the tour fees as and when it was done the checkout was done quickly. The stay in Avora Hotel had been comfortable, but I was not very happy with the room cleaning service. It was always done in a hurry after 3 pm, even when I had left instructions for the room to be done early. The towels were changed every day, but they never made up the bed. Despite all that I must say that the location is unbeatable, the hotel is value for money and the front office staff are helpful and always smiling.

The Grab Taxi I had booked for the journey from Da Nang to Hoi An arrived within five minutes. For the most part of the 40 minute drive to Hoi An the road was parallel to the sea and the new commercial and residential developments on either side of the road told a tale of the growing prosperity of the Vietnamese as well as demand from expats. The coastline looked gorgeous with white sand and blue waters. I am pretty certain that more new beaches will open up for commercial exploitation in the coming years.

As compared to Da Nang, Hoi An seemed just an overgrown village, with narrow streets and rural environment. I normally use booking.com to source during my travels. This has been my practice since 2014, when I made the road trip from Cochin to London. Over the years I have come to rely on the recommendations of booking.com, even though I have had a couple of ‘not so happy’ experiences too. But, they have been few and could be overlooked.

This time too, for the eight nights in Vietnam I relied on booking.com. If I had been pleasantly surprised with the choice in Da Nang the accommodation in Hoi An floored me. Little Town Villa, close to the Old Town, was just what I wanted. Quiet, hospitable, clean and aesthetically pleasing. The location of the accommodation was a big plus. Even though the weather was incredibly hot, even for the locals, the attractions of Old Town and the shopping were just footsteps away.

When I completed the formalities for check-in I was told that my room would be ready around noon, which meant I had a couple of hours to kill. The accommodation provided free cycles to its residents if they chose to use them. I borrowed one and went for a long ride despite the heat. One cannot get lost in Hoi An. Despite the unchartered ride, even crossing the Thu Bon River, I got back to the hotel like a homing pigeon, albeit drenched in sweat.

Hoi An is best explored either by foot or cycle. The large number of tailoring, leather goods, handicrafts, souvenir shops and eating joints amazed me. The entire UNESCO World Heritage Site was swarming with tourists, a tenth of whom I didn't see in Da Nang. The popularity of Hoi An is certainly on the rise.

Back from the cycling trip, energy sapped and sweat dripping from every pore, I dropped the bags in the room on the second floor and took a long shower. That cooled me down temporarily. I was loathe to go any place fancy in the hot weather for lunch. Fortunately, the receptionist told me that a no-frills restaurant was available within three minutes of the hotel.

The Hoang Com Ga is a small restaurant run by a hospitable couple. They served local food and it had a decent menu, in English. While the wife took down the orders the husband was the chef. I started with a chilled beer, Bia Saigon, a local favourite. I had a full plate of chicken rice with a lot of veggies. When I finished the meal that, like Tre Viet in Da Nang, I would be having most of my meals in Hoi An at this small restaurant.

Situated on the banks of the Thu Bon River, the city was a major trading port between the 16th and 19th centuries, and this history is reflected in its architecture and culture. Hoi An's ancient town is characterized by narrow streets, traditional shophouses, and Chinese-style pagodas. Almost the entire Old Town is only a walking and cycling street. If one gets a ticket for the Old Town entrance to five attractions are free. One can wander at peace, window shop and bargain for what they fancy.

Garments, bags, suitcases, lanterns, shoes, lacquered wood and scarves are popular with tourists. After the first purchase I realised how hard one has to bargain. It would be best to start with 50 percent of what the shopkeeper initially quotes. Invariably, the deal can be closed at about 60 percent of the quoted price. Another matter to come to terms with quickly is the Vietnamese Dong and its conversion rate. Every quote is in hundreds of thousands and millions. It is so very easy to miss out on the zeroes and pay more than what one actually should.

One of the most historic landmarks in Hoi An is the Japanese Covered Bridge, which dates back to the 16th century. This covered bridge was built to connect the Japanese community with the Chinese community and is adorned with intricate carvings and a small temple. The bridge, which spans a small canal, is notable for its unique architectural style, which combines Japanese and Vietnamese design elements.

The Japanese Covered Bridge is a popular tourist attraction in Hoi An and is considered to be one of the town's most iconic landmarks. It has undergone several renovations over the years, but has retained much of its original charm and character. Tourists aggregate around here late evening for romantic boat rides and to float lanterns, as a mark of offering and good luck, in the canal. The row boats are of different sizes and motorised boats are not permitted in the area close to the Japanese Bridge. 

Hoi An is also famous for its lanterns, which light up the city at night. The number of visitors at the Japanese bridge at night floored me. I took a boat ride along the canal to appreciate the lanterns from a different perspective and capture the sheer beauty of the awesome city.