It being a Sunday, as well as my birthday, I thought it appropriate to visit the Pink Church, also known as the Da Nang Cathedral early in the morning. I checked over the internet and confirmed a church service at 6.30 am. The church was just behind the hotel, barely a five minute walk. I was stopped at the gate by the watchman saying that tourists are permitted to enter the premise only after the service. When I told him that I was there to attend the service he let me in without further ado.
An example of French architecture, the church was consecrated in 1924. The 70 metre tall cathedral has a rooster atop the cross as a weathercock. Locals even refer to the church as the Rooster Church. Inside the church, as is common in western churches, there are stained glass panes depicting saints, events from the Bible represented by statues, pictures and drawings. By the side of the church there is a Marian Cave resembling the Lourdes Cave.
Back in the hotel after the church service, I went to the restaurant for breakfast, where I was treated to a birthday cake and a special bouquet. The breakfast was not elaborate but was adequate to fill up for a full day I was looking forward to. Toasts and omelette with bacon and spring rolls and plenty of fruits washed down with cold lemon tea and coffee was just the right start to the day. I engaged a cab, courtesy the hotel reception, for a full tour of the Son Tra Peninsula, which is a stunningly beautiful area located about 10 km from the bustling city of Da Nang. It is known for its natural beauty, stunning beaches, and rich history. The peninsula is also home to the red-shanked douc langur, a rare species of monkey, which can only be found in this area.
As we started negotiating the steep and curvy roads to the top of the mountain I could see swathes of fog hugging the mountainside. Past the checkpoint the fog became increasingly thicker and then I knew that the panoramic views I was looking forward to would be a pipedream. That came to pass.
When we reached the Nha Vong Canh, from where I was to savour white sands, blue seas, and a distant view of the Hai Van Pass, the visibility had dropped alarmingly. The other visitors to the view point expressed anguish too. One of the major heritage attraction on the Peninsula is the Son Tra Giant Banyan Tree, which the locals believe to be over 1000 years old. Due to landslips, there are indications of many such on the way, the attraction was closed
The Ban Co Peak is the highest point on the Son Tra Peninsula. The popular legend relating to the Peak mentions an old fairy who came across Son Tra, realized the beauty of the land, sat down on a large and flat rock at a mountain top to enjoy the scenery. While sightseeing, he created a Chinese chess board on the rock. Soon De Thich, a famous chess player, came there and asked to join the game.
So immersed were they in the game that many days went by and the game continued. One day, a few beautiful fairies came to a nearby beach and chanced upon the game between De Thich and the fairy. Laughter of the fairies distracted De Thich and he made a wrong move. Winning the chess game, the fairy came back to heaven, leaving De Thich alone. In commemoration of this legend, the local residents carved a Chinese chess board on a flat rock on the Ban Co Peak. All other viewpoints, from where I could have got views of the city and the surrounding areas were all fogged up. Left with no option I told the driver to take me to the Linh Ung Pagoda.
The Linh Ung Pagoda is set against the backdrop of breath-taking natural beauty, with panoramic views of the East Sea and the surrounding mountains. Its architecture is a stunning blend of traditional Vietnamese and modern styles, with intricate carvings, colorful mosaics, and ornate statues adorning its walls and rooftops.
At the center of the pagoda is a towering white statue of the Goddess of Mercy, standing at a height of 67 meters. This statue is one of the tallest of its kind in Southeast Asia, and a symbol of peace and compassion for the Vietnamese people. Visitors to the pagoda can explore its many shrines and meditation halls, each offering a unique and tranquil space for reflection and prayer. The grounds are also home to a peaceful garden filled with blooming flowers and lush greenery, as well as a serene lotus pond.
On the way back to the hotel in Da Nang I dropped by at the My Khe beach, which is considered to be one of the best in Vietnam. I am not much of a beach person myself, having had a surfeit of exposure to seas, rivers and streams through childhood and adolescence. However, My Khe being a tourist attraction I thought it justified to check it out.
The coconut palm fringed beach is known for its clear waters, white sandy beaches, and stunning natural scenery. At a distance I could see the tranquil marble statue of the Goddess of Mercy. The beach is a popular hangout for tourists and locals alike, offering a range of activities such as swimming, sunbathing, snorkelling, and water sports. With calm waters, shallow waves and warm water the year around, My Khe beach is one of the safest beaches in the world. The beach is dotted with cafes and bars, where one can enjoy local cuisine and drink.
In the evening I decided to explore the Con Market, which was recommended by the hotel reception. The central location of the Avora Hotel meant that the Con Market was just a pleasant walk from the accommodation. One of the features I have noticed in Vietnam is the proliferation of local entrepreneurship; in fact, that is a feature of almost all South-East Asian countries. Most important is the role women play in that feature. Most shops and establishments are manned and managed by women. Men seem to provide logistics support.
At the entrance to the Con Market were small kiosks selling snails, mussels and the like. There was this one lady with a large basket of small snails using a small pin, extracting the snails and shovelling it into her mouth. That was an astonishing sight. What was even more astonishing was the fact that she was still at it when I passed her in another hour on the way back from the market.
The Con Market is the place to go to if one wants to delve into the heart of the local community. The market has street food, fresh vegetables and fruits, a thriving wet market, shops selling garments, fabric, watches, bags, suitcases, footwear and traditional bamboo crafts. It can get a bit stuffy with so many people milling around. A glass of sweet sugarcane juice lined with a squeeze of Kalamansi lime and cooled with a few cubes of ice was the right salve for the parched throat.
Back from the market, I bought a couple of beers and sat on the riverfront, reminiscing. 65 years in flashback, happy with the balanced life, with no regrets. A light rain embellished the ambience. With the beers done I gravitated to the nearby Tre Viet hotel and ordered the traditional chicken pancake. What a feast that turned out to be. While at dinner, just after 9 pm, the Dragon spat fire and water. This is a show for which the cruise boats had line up and the people aggregate at vantage points on the bridge to watch the spectacle. An appropriate end to a birthday celebration.
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