Exploring Central Vietnam - 16 May 2023 – Marble Mountains, Da Nang

I engaged the driver who had taken me to Son Tra Peninsula this day again to go to the Marble Mountains. When I engaged him I did not know that the mountains are less than 5 km away from the Da Nang city centre. That being the case, I could have taken a Grab ride for less than half of what I eventually paid the cab driver! I would put down such instances to poor research on my part.

Along the way one can see tens of workshops with large number of marble statues, some of them busy making shipments. The area is known for excellent craftsmanship in stone and marble. Even though rock extractions have been banned from the mountains recently, blocks are transported from the nearby quarries for sculpting and crafts in the workshops near here.

The Marble Mountains is a cluster of five limestone and marble hills located in the outskirts of Da Nang. Each hill is named after one of the five basic elements of the universe: metal, wood, water, fire, and earth. Legend has it that a dragon once flew to the Non Nuoc beach and laid an egg there. In time, the egg hatched and a beautiful girl emerged from it. The egg shell shattered into five pieces and those became the five marble mountains that are there today.

The mountains have held special significance in the spiritual and cultural significance of the Vietnamese people. The Marble Mountains are an iconic landmark of Da Nang and attract thousands of visitors each year due to their natural beauty and cultural significance. It is possible to climb 156 steps to the summit of Mount Thuy, which is the only Marble Mountain accessible to visitors. The summit allows a wide panoramic view of the neighbouring areas and the other marble mountains. All the mountains have cave entrances and numerous tunnels.

Huyen Khong is the largest and most famous of the caves in the group of mountains. The collapsed ceiling permits shafts of light to permeate the dark cavern, creating interesting spotlights within the cave. The size of the entrance belies the space within. The huge cave has a large Buddha statue and a couple of shrines. There is an underground tunnel that has eerie, demon-like sculptures depicting human sacrifice and animals.

The mountains were used as a hiding place for the Viet Cong during the Vietnam War, who even operated a hospital inside one of the mountains, despite being very close to the American Air Base. The mountains have also been a place of refuge for locals during natural disasters.

The mountains are also home to several Buddhist and Hindu temples, pagodas, and shrines that have been built into the caves and grottoes on the hillsides. Entrance fee is separate for exploring the Cave and that of the mountain and a ride up the elevator. At the top of the mountain one gets breath-taking panoramic views of the surrounding landscapes, including the Non Nuoc Beach and the city of Da Nang. 

The evening was reserved for a long walk along the riverside. With the sun going down the play of colours of the setting sun on the Han River was a most memorable farewell gift from Da Nang. I walked the 600 metre Dragon Bridge to the right bank of the River. The pedestrian side of the bridge had niches were selfie takers and professional photographers could indulge without causing any harm or disruption.

The fading light and the last rays of the day's Sun played mesmerising tunes on the Han River. On the right bank of the River I walked along the Tran Hung Dao to Da Nang's own Merlion, the Ho Merlion.

While it is not an exact replica of the Singapore Merlion, it is a lion-fish hybrid representing the country’s maritime legacy. It is actually a carp-dragon, which is inspired by a popular Vietnamese tale – that of a carp fish that turns into a dragon after swimming upstream against strong currents and passing the Dragon’s gate. The Tran Hung Dao, as compared to the Bach Dang, looked like a poor cousin.

Down the road, past a few diners and souvenir shops is the small, 68 meter Love Lock Bridge. It has an arc shape and in between the Dragon Bridge and the Han River Bridge. From it location, the bridge affords beautiful views of the city’s landscape. The bridge has been in operation since 2015 and has been inspired by the many love bridges across the world. It is a place for couples to express their undying love, mark the place and lock their stories forever. Couples bring their own locks or buy a special heart-shaped lock from one of the shops with their names engraved on them. Once the lock is locked on the bridge the couple throw the keys away to signify their eternal bonding. 

While I was exploring the Love Lock Bridge I came across a group of women who were dancing at one end of the bridge. A couple of them were jamming so well that I struck up a conversation with them. They were visiting from the Philippines and were fascinated by the country. They, however, bemoaned the fact that language was a barrier in enjoying the country more! Very near the Love Lock Bridge is the Happiness Cruise, which is essentially a food court, from where one can enjoy the beauty of the bridges across the Han River over food and drink.

By the time I had walked the entire length of the right bank between the Dragon and Han River Bridges, crossed them and reached the Tre Viet restaurant I could have had a full five course meal. So ravenously hungry was I! A couple of Larue beers started the preparation to imbibe a huge meal, which was a superb Sai Gon noodles with pork. A fitting end to the four day stay in the beautiful city of Da Nang.

Exploring Central Vietnam - 15 May 2023 – Ba Na Hills, Da Nang

The hotel reception has been very helpful in planning my schedules. First day it was the river cruise and the next it was the Son Tra Peninsula visit. Hence, I had no hesitation in booking a Ba Na Hills tour also through the hotel reception. I was picked up from the hotel at 8 am to join a tour group to visit Ba Na Hills, a popular tourist destination and theme park located about 30 km out of Da Nang city. The hill resort and amusement park is on a mountain peak in the Truong Son mountain range.

The French, during their occupation till 1945, had developed the vacation spot, replete with villas and a resort, to escape the heat of Hue, their capital city. With their departure the locals destroyed much of their heritage to display their animosity of the occupiers. In 2000 the Vietnamese government decided to rebuilt the place and add attractions to market it as a tourist destination. They have more than succeeded, going by the footfalls the Hills receive throughout the year.

The attraction is known for its beautiful scenery, French-style architecture, and diverse entertainment options, including a cable car ride, indoor and outdoor games, and cultural performances. Visitors can also enjoy various activities such as hiking, visiting the flower gardens, or taking a panoramic view from the Golden Bridge, which is a 150-meter long pedestrian bridge that appears to be held up by two giant stone hands.

All tourist brochures highlight the Golden Bridge when they promote a visit to the Ba Na Hills. The bridge provides stunning views of the surrounding mountains and forests. It is a stunning architectural masterpiece with a unique design that gives visitors the illusion of walking on a ribbon of gold floating above the lush green landscape. The bridge has quickly became a popular attraction, drawing in visitors from all over the world.

At the top of the Hill one can wander along the French Village with photo opportunities in plenty. Every turn captures your attention, be it archways, balconies, vintage cars and bikes. Cobble stone streets with French music wafting in the air, cafes, fountains, statues, town square and many such transport you to a medieval European ambience.

The landscaped garden, the Le Jardin d’amour, has nine different gardens designed in different styles such as a garden maze, a giant chessboard, a peacock showing off and a ceramic lady in a fluid dance pose. There are hundreds of hedges, balustrades and blooms to test one’s photography skills.

As can be expected in a theme park there are many thrills and rides in the Fantasy Park entertainment area. There are video arcades, mirror maze and bumper cars on one level, cinemas on another and a 3D 360 degree immersive experience in the mega cinema on the third level.

Most of these are not covered by the entry ticket and have to be paid for separately. But, the biggest adventures are the 30 metre twist and drop tower – not for the faint of heart – and the Alpine Coaster, a roller coaster ride. Besides these, there is a wax museum, in which 48 real life wax statues of famous personalities are on display, and the Debay Wine Cellar, where one can taste wine. The Wine Cellar is the only true remnant of the erstwhile French resort. The cellar, being deep into the mountain, could store wine between 16 and 20 degree Celsius. 

Vietnam has many spiritual structures on mountain tops, such as in Son Tra Peninsula, and the Ba Na Hills is no exception. The Linh Ung Pagoda at 1500 metres above the sea level offers panoramic views of the entire complex and the hills surrounding it. The pagoda also boats one of the biggest Buddha statues in the country, the Zen Monastery and the Holy Mother Shrine. Thus, there is something for any kind of visitor, be it the spiritualist, the adventurer, the romantic, the gastronome or the explorer.

The only way up to the Ba Na Hills is via the cable cars and, for this reason, the entry ticket also includes the cable car round trip rides. The cable car infrastructure in Ba Na Hills is considered to be among the most impressive in the world. There are four different cable car systems supporting the Ba Na Hills attractions depending on where you want to go. A fifth cable system as well as other attractions are under development. The cable cars are also a way to appreciate the incredible beauty of the surrounding hills and eco system. It is said that, on a clear day, one can see as far as Da Nang and the shoreline.

What amazed me was the superb infrastructure, great industry and discipline, clockwork precision and hospitality of the staff. There were zillions of smiles all around. Besides the numerous options for food everywhere, those in tour groups are served a buffet lunch of the most amazing variety. Thousands are served on two levels without any confusion or jostling. The entry and exit to cable cars and entertainment areas are well regulated too, ensuring that untoward incidents are avoided. 

It had become a bit dark when it was time to return to the base station. There were rumblings in the air, with a sliver of lightning or two and a touch of rain. When we were all back in the tourist van the guide told us that the cable cars had to be stopped for a while due to the thunder.

Exploring Central Vietnam - 14 May 2023 – Son Tra Peninsula, Da Nang

It being a Sunday, as well as my birthday, I thought it appropriate to visit the Pink Church, also known as the Da Nang Cathedral early in the morning. I checked over the internet and confirmed a church service at 6.30 am. The church was just behind the hotel, barely a five minute walk. I was stopped at the gate by the watchman saying that tourists are permitted to enter the premise only after the service. When I told him that I was there to attend the service he let me in without further ado.

An example of French architecture, the church was consecrated in 1924. The 70 metre tall cathedral has a rooster atop the cross as a weathercock. Locals even refer to the church as the Rooster Church. Inside the church, as is common in western churches, there are stained glass panes depicting saints, events from the Bible represented by statues, pictures and drawings. By the side of the church there is a Marian Cave resembling the Lourdes Cave. 

Back in the hotel after the church service, I went to the restaurant for breakfast, where I was treated to a birthday cake and a special bouquet. The breakfast was not elaborate but was adequate to fill up for a full day I was looking forward to. Toasts and omelette with bacon and spring rolls and plenty of fruits washed down with cold lemon tea and coffee was just the right start to the day. I engaged a cab, courtesy the hotel reception, for a full tour of the Son Tra Peninsula, which is a stunningly beautiful area located about 10 km from the bustling city of Da Nang. It is known for its natural beauty, stunning beaches, and rich history. The peninsula is also home to the red-shanked douc langur, a rare species of monkey, which can only be found in this area. 

As we started negotiating the steep and curvy roads to the top of the mountain I could see swathes of fog hugging the mountainside. Past the checkpoint the fog became increasingly thicker and then I knew that the panoramic views I was looking forward to would be a pipedream. That came to pass.

When we reached the Nha Vong Canh, from where I was to savour white sands, blue seas, and a distant view of the Hai Van Pass, the visibility had dropped alarmingly. The other visitors to the view point expressed anguish too. One of the major heritage attraction on the Peninsula is the Son Tra Giant Banyan Tree, which the locals believe to be over 1000 years old. Due to landslips, there are indications of many such on the way, the attraction was closed

The Ban Co Peak is the highest point on the Son Tra Peninsula. The popular legend relating to the Peak mentions an old fairy who came across Son Tra, realized the beauty of the land, sat down on a large and flat rock at a mountain top to enjoy the scenery. While sightseeing, he created a Chinese chess board on the rock. Soon De Thich, a famous chess player, came there and asked to join the game.

So immersed were they in the game that many days went by and the game continued. One day, a few beautiful fairies came to a nearby beach and chanced upon the game between De Thich and the fairy. Laughter of the fairies distracted De Thich and he made a wrong move. Winning the chess game, the fairy came back to heaven, leaving De Thich alone. In commemoration of this legend, the local residents carved a Chinese chess board on a flat rock on the Ban Co Peak. All other viewpoints, from where I could have got views of the city and the surrounding areas were all fogged up. Left with no option I told the driver to take me to the Linh Ung Pagoda.

The Linh Ung Pagoda is set against the backdrop of breath-taking natural beauty, with panoramic views of the East Sea and the surrounding mountains. Its architecture is a stunning blend of traditional Vietnamese and modern styles, with intricate carvings, colorful mosaics, and ornate statues adorning its walls and rooftops.

At the center of the pagoda is a towering white statue of the Goddess of Mercy, standing at a height of 67 meters. This statue is one of the tallest of its kind in Southeast Asia, and a symbol of peace and compassion for the Vietnamese people. Visitors to the pagoda can explore its many shrines and meditation halls, each offering a unique and tranquil space for reflection and prayer. The grounds are also home to a peaceful garden filled with blooming flowers and lush greenery, as well as a serene lotus pond.

On the way back to the hotel in Da Nang I dropped by at the My Khe beach, which is considered to be one of the best in Vietnam. I am not much of a beach person myself, having had a surfeit of exposure to seas, rivers and streams through childhood and adolescence. However, My Khe being a tourist attraction I thought it justified to check it out.

The coconut palm fringed beach is known for its clear waters, white sandy beaches, and stunning natural scenery. At a distance I could see the tranquil marble statue of the Goddess of Mercy. The beach is a popular hangout for tourists and locals alike, offering a range of activities such as swimming, sunbathing, snorkelling, and water sports. With calm waters, shallow waves and warm water the year around, My Khe beach is one of the safest beaches in the world. The beach is dotted with cafes and bars, where one can enjoy local cuisine and drink.

In the evening I decided to explore the Con Market, which was recommended by the hotel reception. The central location of the Avora Hotel meant that the Con Market was just a pleasant walk from the accommodation. One of the features I have noticed in Vietnam is the proliferation of local entrepreneurship; in fact, that is a feature of almost all South-East Asian countries. Most important is the role women play in that feature. Most shops and establishments are manned and managed by women. Men seem to provide logistics support.

At the entrance to the Con Market were small kiosks selling snails, mussels and the like. There was this one lady with a large basket of small snails using a small pin, extracting the snails and shovelling it into her mouth. That was an astonishing sight. What was even more astonishing was the fact that she was still at it when I passed her in another hour on the way back from the market.

The Con Market is the place to go to if one wants to delve into the heart of the local community. The market has street food, fresh vegetables and fruits, a thriving wet market, shops selling garments, fabric, watches, bags, suitcases, footwear and traditional bamboo crafts. It can get a bit stuffy with so many people milling around. A glass of sweet sugarcane juice lined with a squeeze of Kalamansi lime and cooled with a few cubes of ice was the right salve for the parched throat.

Back from the market, I bought a couple of beers and sat on the riverfront, reminiscing. 65 years in flashback, happy with the balanced life, with no regrets. A light rain embellished the ambience. With the beers done I gravitated to the nearby Tre Viet hotel and ordered the traditional chicken pancake. What a feast that turned out to be. While at dinner, just after 9 pm, the Dragon spat fire and water. This is a show for which the cruise boats had line up and the people aggregate at vantage points on the bridge to watch the spectacle. An appropriate end to a birthday celebration.

Exploring Central Vietnam - 13 May 2023 – Han River Boat Ride, Da Nang

The Avora Hotel is situated bang on one of the banks of the Han River, the Bach Dang Street, widely considered to be one of the most beautiful streets of Da Nang. Like most riverside roads in Vietnam, this one way boulevard is also named after a victorious battle against the Chinese. In Da Nang this street is popular for its vibrant nightlife. Just a few hundred metres away from the hotel is the iconic Dragon Bridge. The first sights took my breath away.

While the formalities for check-in were being completed the receptionist told me politely that I would have to wait a while to occupy the room reserved for me on the 8th floor. She said that the room would be ready in a couple of hours, by which time I could take a stroll along the Riverwalk and possibly have lunch. The receptionist told me a few options for food within close proximity.

The streets were not that busy with the sun beating down quite relentlessly. The broad Riverwalk is paved from end to end with lovely marble statues placed at intermediate locations. The statues looked so lifelike and the workmanship was exquisite. There were many coffee shops, restaurants, and bars, some overflowing with people as it was so close to the lunch hour and many taking solace in chilled beers and other beverages. The grand French architecture of several of the political buildings dotted along the street have stood since the colonial times and some are now flourishing hotels and restaurants. The Hilton, Novotel and Wink are modern high rise buildings.

I briefly walked into the historic Han Market, located close to the renowned Han River Bridge. The Han Market was first established in the 17th century as a spontaneous trading area. In the 19th century, the French constructed a formal business centre. It was rebuilt in 1990 with two spacious floors of 28,000 square meters with 576 stalls and 36 kiosks to serve the needs of the local citizens and foreign tourists.

The market is a popular tourist attraction in Da Nang and has etched a deep cultural and economic mark. It is a paradise for shopaholics who can find not only Da Nang specialties but is also an ideal place to shop for souvenirs. This is normally part of every tourist’s schedule because of the bargains available for garments, footwear, souvenirs, bamboo works, condiments, spices, Vietnamese specialities, etc. It is also a great place to explore local cuisine. Unfortunately, in the food court I got checkmated by the language; the vendors do not speak English and I cannot speak Vietnamese to save my life.

When the hunger pangs began I started looking into restaurants that featured Vietnamese cuisine. Almost all of them had the menu in the local language and the waiters did not speak English. Thus, it was a long trudge along the Bach Dang Street before I walked into the Tre Viet restaurant, decked up aesthetically in local style and with staff who understood English. They produced a menu which described the dishes in English. While sipping on a chilled Larue beer I ordered grilled pork with broke rice. The passion fruit juice they served with the main meal was superb to taste. The pork was a bit tough, but tasty.

After resting the weary limbs, baked by the hot sun and overnight flights, I booked a river cruise, which is one of the must do things in Da Nang. The Han River flows right through the city centre and empties into the Da Nang Bay. It is about 7 kms in length and is over 1 km at its widest. I booked the cruise at the hotel reception, which also booked a Grab cab for me to get to the Song Han Port from where the boat rides originate.

When I got there by a quarter to 7 pm I realised I could have walked there along the river front. The boats were all brightly decked up and there were quite a few of them. The most popular rides are the dinner cruises that takes visitors close to the Dragon Bridge on weekends when the Dragon breaths fire and water at 9 pm. 

The upper deck is most sought after for the boat rides. The first few rows were already taken by the time I got on. Therefore, the frontal view was restricted. Before the cruise began I was served a plateful of watermelon and mango with a bottle of chilled water. I sipped on a can of chilled Larue when a comely girl gave a couple performances of the Cham dance, which is a special kind of art of the Cham ethnic group of Vietnam. The traditional Cham dance is a part of the cultural and religious life of the people. Through dances, they express reverence to gods, kings or people who have made contributions to the country.

The boat cruise is a wonderful way to appreciate the lit up skyline, high rises and four landmark bridges that span the Han River. The Han River Bridge is a cable-stayed, swing bridge, where traffic is stopped at 11 pm to allow ships to pass when the centre portion of the bridge swings on its axis. The suspension cables of the Tran Thi Ly Bridge, named after a heroic revolutionary, is in the shape of an inverted Y and is intended to look like sails of a ship. The Dragon Bridge, the icon of Da Nang, is in the shape of a Golden Dragon stretching itself across the river from one bank to the other. The Thuan Phuoc Bridge, the longest suspension bridge in Vietnam at 1.85 kms, transport men and material from Da Nang to the Son Tra Pensinsula and Hue, the former capital city.

The one hour boat cruise was quite enjoyable and by the time I disembarked the entire port area was filled with tourists for the 8 and 9 pm dinner cruises. I walked leisurely along the beautiful river bank, taking in the sculptures and neat gardens on the way back to the hotel. On the way I had dinner at the Tre Viet consisting of Pho, a beef noodle soup, the national dish of Vietnam. It is extremely nutritious and filling. Near to the diner were many shops selling coconut based sweet dishes. I succumbed to the temptation and had one before seeking the air-conditioned comfort of the hotel room.