It was Christmas day. The Tent City arranges sunrise visit to White Desert Zero Point for those who avail two day packages. Sanjay is not one to be cowed down by such minor technical issues. His contacts include the MP of the area, Vijod Chavada, who has been a friend of many years. He pulled the right wires and we were included in the sunrise watchers list. The Tent City bus would leave at 6.30 am, we were told. Sanjay and I were in the bus much before that. Zero point is a ten minute drive from Tent City.
Zero point is a five storied watch tower with multiple accesses to every level. While most people crowded at the top, Sanjay and I took our places a couple of levels lower for the 7.35 am sunrise ‘show’. The 45 minutes I spent there included time for prayer and thanksgiving. I had not imagined at all till the day before that I would be enjoying a White Christmas. Thanks are due to Rajiv, Sanjay and the Almighty. The reflection of the changing colours on the salt flats were magical. The squeals of delight from the expectant crowd must have made the Sun feel happy and proud. The majesty of this morning's sunrise and yesterday's sunset made me appreciate why our ancients worshiped the Sun.
We had stayed in the Tent City in a premium tent with an extra bed placed to accommodate all three of us. The Tent City has two phases with about 450 tents. Sanjay told me that normally the Diwali and Christmas/New Year slots close within days of the booking opening up. So is the case with ekadasi days. However, this year has been disastrous, as was to be expected. Normally 30 percent occupation is foreign inbound, which is zero now. Even local tourists have shied away, for the most part. It is sad to see such a fantastic facility underutilized to such an extent. It is a superb initiative of the Gujarat Tourism Board with private participation.
Breakfast was an elaborate buffet.
Khakra, tepla, pooori baji, uthappam, ghattia khadi, sev khamman, fruit cuts and tea. It was time after the feast to check out and set our sights for Dholavira, the location of one of mankind's oldest and greatest civilizations.
Dholavira is in the Kutch Desert Wildlife Sanctuary on Khadir Island in the Rann of Kutch. This is widely considered as one of the most flourishing cities of the Indus Valley Civilization. The remains of a great city came to life after the initial archaeological digs by JP Joshi in 1968. A tour of the seven layered city, built over by successive generations that lived between 5000 and 3500 years ago, was facilitated by a knowledgeable guide. The city was divided into three sections within the outside walls, of while the Citadel and middle town were further walled. Therefore, it is inferred that inhabitants of the lower town were plebeians. The remains in Dholavira suggest an advanced water conservation system and location of possibly the world's oldest signboard etched in the Indus script. Dholavira is almost entirely built in stone possibly because water conservation did not permit use of water for operating brick kilns.
In the Wood Fossil Park, a few km away from the archaeological site, one gets to see fossilized remains of trees and incredible views of Kutch. The fossil remains are believed to be of the Jurassic Age, dating back to more than 160 million years. The plant fossils and petrified wood in Dholavira are similar in vintage to those in Akal, Jaisalmer. The Park is on the banks of the Rann of Kutch Lake.
While enjoying the views, absorbing information and committing incredible views to camera I forgot to check the fuel gauge. There was just enough fuel to get to our night halt station in Rann Resort, and lo and behold, there was no fuel station in Dholavira. Sanjay, as is his wont, brushed aside the impending calamity and assured that the matter would be attended to in the morning.
Cottages and commodious rooms are available in the Rann Resort. Sanjay had managed a large room with extra bed for us to rest the night after a decent meal. Local artists entertained the small group of tourists who were staying at the resort and local handicrafts were on display for those who wished to buy.
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