All
along on the drive through China I have been most fascinated by the vast
stretches of agricultural farms growing rice, wheat, fruits and vegetables.
Polyhouses and modern means of farming has reduced input costs increased
productivity per capita, thereby making agriculture the mainstays of the
economy. Wherever I have been to in the country I have had fresh vegetables and
fruits served with all meals. Despite being an overwhelmingly meat eating
people the Chinese have a large share of vegetables and fruits in their daily
diet. The quantity of rice intake per person is quite high. And as long as
demand remains so high amongst the local population farming will remain
attractive and is actively promoted by the state.
Another
feature that struck me is the population. Population control in China
influenced and enforced strictly by the state was a subject of study during
college days. Hence, I was prepared to see large number of people everywhere I
went. That has not been the case. In fact, the ‘sea of humanity’ that one sees
and feels in India is larger than even in large cities like Beijing! I feel
that it has all to do with infrastructure. When there are wide open roads, humongous
parking lots, well maintained subways and sidewalks, huge shopping malls, large
schools and colleges, etc. one does not have to bump into another. The other is
about discipline. People respect rules and regulations which makes daily life
more peaceful. The way people drive on the road is a classic case in point. Of
course, in larger cities there is wanton weaving of lanes, with taxi drivers
the most offensive. Otherwise, on the highways and main roads lane discipline
is a given.
Pollution
is what China is most accused of in the western press. I did see evidence of
that during my visit to Shenzhen in 2003, where manufacturing added to noise
and air pollution. However, during this expedition what I have seen has
completely amazed me. Scooters and carts are almost entirely electric. I was
told that the state has promoted this initiative so much that the price of
these machines is kept low and affordable. Thus, in one stroke emissions and
noise pollution are addressed. The condition of vehicles on the road is
scrupulously monitored for emissions and their capability. Those that do not
stand the standard test are taken off the roads.
Public
toilets and garbage cans are almost everywhere. People do not litter and
garbage collection is most efficiently organized. I saw roads being kept clean
by people using battery operated carts and roads are regularly cleaned using
water jets and bobcat machines. On the highways there are comfort stations at
regular intervals. The comfort stations have clean and well maintained toilets,
restaurants, supermarket, accommodation for overnight stay, fuel station and
parking facility. Very large freight transportation and leisure travel ensure
that these facilities are regularly used.
Development
has been at the center of China’s focus over the past few decades. And they
have built magnificent infrastructure in their country. Even in the smallest of
small towns one can find decent places to stay at affordable prices. Moreover, it
is a safe country to travel in. Maybe, the environment has been altered in the
process of the development programs in the country. But what I saw where large
swathes of social forestry initiatives along the highways. Millions of trees
have been planted and nurtured in place of those that gave way for development.
The city
of Shenyang, which I left this morning, attracted me a lot for its vibrant life
and warm people. I am a day ahead of the original schedule. I could have moved
across to Russia on the 1st instead of the 2nd had it not
been for the strange requirement to move my car in a truck between the Chinese
and Russian borders. Nobody has been able to explain to me why this is so. With
such a requirement already factored in I have no option but to follow the
original schedule. With this in mind, I decided to take the Shenyang-Hunchun
leg leisurely. During the course of the drive we decided to halt the night in
the small nondescript township of Dun Hua. Andy was able to find a great hotel
deal too, which was inclusive of breakfast. I had covered over 6oo km in about
6 hours of driving.
The
northern part of China is very different from the south, naturally. It is drier
in the north and winters are harsh here. Somewhere along the way from Shenyang
to Dun Hua I drove into the last Chinese Province I would be in, Jilin, of
which Changchu is the capital. All along it was extremely windy and the landscape
was small green mountains and pine forests on both sides of the road. It was
not just cool, it was cold in Din Hua, with the wind adding to the discomfort.
I wore three layers to keep out the cold. 
Initially,
since I would have an extra day in Hunchun I explored the possibility of doing
a day tour into North Korea. Andy found out the options that spiked the very
thought. Apparently, the tours are arranged from Tumen, the city short of
Hunchun, and they are normally two day tours. The tour from Hunchun is merely
to climb a tower and look across to the North Korean side. I was not
particularly interested in driving over 100 km to climb a tower! Moreover, Andy
found out that it would take at least four days to complete the paperwork for a
foreigner! The Chinese could permits in a short while based on their identity
card. While nearing Hunchun I noticed that even the signboards carried the
Korean language. Since the region had a fair sprinkling of them with Chinese
passports this arrangement was adopted. In Hunchun all shops and establishments
used both Chinese and Korean languages.
Once
we had checked in done some documentation we drove out to the outskirts of the
city where a tall golden statue of the seated Buddha overlooked the Moudunchiang
River from a small green hill. Entry to the statue was regulated. The guard
merely said that we could not go up there! The city of Dun Hua has its old and
new parts, again divided by a bridge over the river. The old part had ill
maintained houses and buildings and even pot holed roads. The newer part, where
there seemed to be more life, was where all the action was. New apartments,
shopping complexes, eating joints, etc were all here. Andy and I returned to
the hotel and walked to Dicos, the Chinese fast food joint, for dinner.
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