A few days in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia 16-20 September 2025 - Part 2

"When you stop doing things for fun, you might as well be dead." - Ernest Hemmingway

Gaya Street is often touted as the most visited place in Kota Kinabalu. It was established in 1902, during the period of the British Crown, after the construction of shop houses. Originally it served as a railway track for transportation of rubber from the estates in Tenom to the Jessleton wharf. Since then, farmers and ordinary folks from the rural areas and fishermen from the coastal areas would make their trip to sell their produce in the market; these included the Chinese immigrants as well Filipino and Indonesian traders.

Aside from agricultural products, local food, souvenirs, arts and craft, footwear, antiques and even pets are sold in the market. Gaya Street is known as the Chinatown of Sabah due to many Chinese coffee shops, retail and souvenir shops and restaurants situated there. An arch gate was also erected in 2005 lending credence to its name.

The market street is where the old Jesselton Post Office and the iconic Jessleton Hotel are located. The Api-Api Night Food Market in Gaya Street is a must-visit food fair that happens every Friday and Saturday night. The night market was inaugurated in December 2018.

By 6 pm on Friday, the vehicle parking bays along the street are vacated and vendors take over the street setting up their tents and stalls. The entire Gaya Street is closed for the Api-Api Night Food Market from 6 pm to 12 midnight, thereby enabling visitors to walk freely along the road and enjoy the food fiesta.

It’s a food display unlike seen elsewhere, from one end of the street to the other showcasing multiracial vendors selling a wide variety of food and beverages. Aside from cash payment, most vendors nowadays accept e-wallet payment. Credit or debit cards are a no-go.

I couldn't resist the wafting smells of food and succumbed to a portion of prawn noodles. The food and beverages are extremely cheap and wholesome. Besides the food stalls, there were local artisans showcasing their talent for music, painting, etc. Large crowds throng the area, including in front of the Malaysian monument. No litter, no noise pollution, no nuisance.

Every Sunday morning the Gaya Street fair starts as early as 6.00am and ends at 1.00pm. I was fascinated by the various items and goods sold at this fair. From arts and crafts, batik sarongs, footwear, fruits and flowers, local snacks and cakes, antiques and souvenirs, to even pets and herbs, this is the best place to experience the culture and lifestyle of the locals.

"You buy, I cook" should be the tag line of the Kota Kinabalu waterfront seafood market. It is a lively and vibrant open-air market renowned for its selection of fresh seafood and the hawker fare. There are numerous stalls and vendors who solicit customers and explain the various types of seafood on display. They also take you through the various laminated recipe sheets you could choose from.

Depending on the number and preferences of guests you can select from the live lobsters, crabs and such like or the freshly landed catch. While the entire place is neat and clean, first timers, especially vegetarians, will find the place nauseating. When you are on a short trip, food and drink are not things that you should take a chance with.

Beyond the seafood market are jetties where the fishing boats land their catch and the Filipino market, which is quite known for its Borneo pearls shops.

Another thing that is 'in your face' in Kota Kinabalu are the massage centres. Prominently advertised as reflexology centres, they attract tourists and locals alike. I pared into one of the massage centres which operates across the street from Hyatt Regency. The array of services provided in the massage centre is prominently displayed outside the large hall which houses the massage facility.

I was curious about the normal rate and the promotional rates for the various services. The normal rates apply after 9.30 pm. The discount during the promotion times is about 20 percent. I must confess that I got hooked on to the 60-minute foot massage sessions. I found the engagement a relaxation after getting back from the day's work. The place was neat and clean, and the masseurs were thoroughly professional.