In
Myanmar distance is referred to in miles and speed in km! Therefore, Thein told
me that while it would be 360 miles to Mandalay from Bago, the speed limit on
the highway would range from 80 to 100 kmph. It was decided that we would leave
the hotel after breakfast, which would be served at 7 am. Accordingly, I was in
the lobby of the hotel after loading the luggage and sprucing up the car in
time for breakfast, where I was joined by the rest. We were met by empty trays
and plates in the buffet hall. Aye and Thein fuelled some action by reporting
the matter to the reception and in a while a person came to the dining hall to
enquire what I wanted. I asked for toasts and eggs. In the meanwhile a family
of three also arrived in the dining hall. They too were surprised that items to
break their fast were not on the table. However, in 15 minutes noodles, fried
rice, fried eggs, toasts, cakes and bananas filled the buffet table. Instead of
coffee I had helpings of an excellent cool lime and ginger drink.
Thein
wanted me to experience the old highway to Mandalay, which he felt would be
more scenic and enjoyable. Besides, he said that the tarred old highway would
be easier on the tyres. I went along with the idea because I had already done
the new highway when travelling from Mandalay to Yangon. However, I was
apprehensive about the time it would take to reach Mandalay via the old
highway. Nevertheless, we started out at 7.45 am from Bago to Mandalay on the
old highway. Immediately as I got on to it I knew that my apprehensions would prove
right – the traffic was slow and the preponderance of heavy cargo vehicles
prevented faster movement. Moreover, most of the road was a single carriageway.
To top it all there were temporary road diversions due to road works in
progress. I told Thein that we should get back to the new highway failing which
we would remain in the road till nightfall. He too appreciated the condition
and we switched to the new highway, travelling through long stretches of village
roads. We got to the new highway at mile 72, which meant that there were 300
miles more to Mandalay. Thein said that that we would stop at mile 285 for
lunch.
Thein
kept up a lively conversation about Myanmar and that kept drooping eyelids at
bay for a while. However, by 11 am I could not control sleep anymore and pulled
up beyond the pavement for a power nap. 15 minutes is what I usually allot for
my power nap. But this time I woke up after 3o minutes of deep sleep – I had
woken up at 3 am and that had caught up. I felt miserable having kept the rest
waiting. But they too appreciated that I did what I did instead of driving
through with fatal consequences. The new highway is also known as the Death
Highway because of the numerous accidents that happen on it, mostly owing to
bus drivers falling asleep behind the wheel. Thein narrated many such
instances; I suspected that he had suggested the alternate route because of the
high incidence of accidents on the new highway!
After
the nap I felt supercharged and Thein helped to keep the batteries recharged
with a lively debate about my experiences in Myanmar. The transformation I have
witnessed in Myanmar between 2003, when I was here on a backpacking trip, and
2015 is nothing short of miraculous. The order and discipline, road
infrastructure, industrial and agricultural development and the growth of local
entrepreneurship have been extraordinary. Seeing all this first hand I have
become extremely sceptical of media propaganda, mostly western, about the
country. Media reports highlight low salary levels in Myanmar. But they do not
correlate that to the purchasing power of the people. Most importantly,
development, however slow and gradual, has not spoilt the smiling and service
oriented Myanmarese. This is so with most of the South East Asian countries.
There is life and warmth in the people. Maybe, this is not true of Singapore,
but service levels are very high there too.
By quarter
to 2 pm we reached mile 285 and detoured to the comfort station for lunch. The Shwe
Inlay Hotel served us what they had, the kitchen having been closed at the late
hour. I had two helpings of yummy chicken curry and steamed rice. I walked
around the many stalls in the comfort station and observed that chikkies were the most sold there. The
area grows a lot of peanuts and sesame; it’s rich in production of palm sugar
too. I picked up different kinds of chikkies
as well as exotic tamarind balls in sugar!
Shortly
after we had hit the highway after lunch Aye discovered that he had left his
waist bag behind at the restaurant. It did take us a while to get back to the
Shwe Inlay Hotel because of the protected highway with minimal interconnections
between the two carriageways. However, we retrieved the bag and Aye tipped the
smart youngsters who came running to the car with the bag as they spotted us.
By this time the horizon had turned dark as night and lightning was seen
embellishing the landscape.
Rain
came down in buckets with gale force winds. It was a heavy storm and most
vehicles pulled to the side due to poor visibility; nothing ahead could be
seen. Thein suggested that we pull over too. I insisted on driving through at
slow speed with hazard lights. More than 30 minutes of that and we were through
it. But, it was an experience I have not had before. I could make out that my
co-passengers had had their hearts in their mouths till the storm blew over. It
became sunny and hot all over again and it was steaming in Mandalay when we
stopped for fuelling.
Overnight
stay was once again in the Mandalay Hotel. I love the lovely teak furniture in
the hotel and the commodious room. After settling the luggage Aye took me to a
store to buy a couple of Myanmar beers. I also picked up a bottle of Mandalay
Rum, which is considered to be the best produced in Myanmar. The proof will be
in the drinking! Over the beers I completed pending documentation in the room.
I wanted to hit the sack early because of the 5 am departure planned to Kalay
next morning. Aye and I went to a Chinese restaurant where I had a plate of fried
rice and the most gorgeous mangoes for dessert. Over dinner Aye reminded me
that we had met before in Yangon. I had completely forgotten that he was
working in Silver Hills and had met him in the company of Myo Min. He told me
that he had worked in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs for ten years and had
resigned to join the tour company. The motivation to resign was the poor salary
he got in the government job. I was shocked by his declaration that he a
monthly salary of 950 kyats (less than USD1) when he joined service, which rose
to USD 25 by the time he put in his papers. He gets more than 10 times that in
the private sector job he is in now. Additionally, during his spare time, after
office, he drives a taxi. His is a double income family and that has made it
comfortable for them, with a little set apart for the rainy day.
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